Anyone with knowledge of XLF F17 and 144001 buggies?

[Kyleag89]

Hello guys I've recently gotten back into RC cars to have some fun with my nephew. I bought the XLF f17 (flyhal fc650) first and then a wltoys 124016 V2. Nephew already broke the c seat on the 124016 on the 2nd battery pack! I'm ordering new LC racing arms, knuckles, c seat, cvds, and the wheel bearings since they're a different size for that. I really loved the f17 until I realized that all the metal parts was actually a bad idea vs plastic! Lol The biggest problem I have is that theres almost no parts availability for it and everything has to come from China. I started converting most of the car to wltoys 144001 parts because of the better availability of parts from Amazon. Literally within 10 min of driving it 2 cvds bent already and things aren't looking good. I will try and take some pics of what I did because its too complicated to explain without a picture.

Okay so long story I'm sorry but I needed to give a little background information. My first question, is there any better cvds or dogbones available for the wltoys? I don't feel like my wheels are installed well either. They're just generic wheels from Amazon that worked excellent with my xlfs 4mm cvds but seem very odd on the 3mm ones.

 

[Greywolf74]

Hello guys I've recently gotten back into RC cars to have some fun with my nephew. I bought the XLF f17 (flyhal fc650) first and then a wltoys 124016 V2. Nephew already broke the c seat on the 124016 on the 2nd battery pack! I'm ordering new LC racing arms, knuckles, c seat, cvds, and the wheel bearings since they're a different size for that. I really loved the f17 until I realized that all the metal parts was actually a bad idea vs plastic! Lol The biggest problem I have is that theres almost no parts availability for it and everything has to come from China. I started converting most of the car to wltoys 144001 parts because of the better availability of parts from Amazon. Literally within 10 min of driving it 2 cvds bent already and things aren't looking good. I will try and take some pics of what I did because its too complicated to explain without a picture.

Okay so long story I'm sorry but I needed to give a little background information. My first question, is there any better cvds or dogbones available for the wltoys? I don't feel like my wheels are installed well either. They're just generic wheels from Amazon that worked excellent with my xlfs 4mm cvds but seem very odd on the 3mm ones.

Welcome to RCT. I'm not trying to be mean or condescending but the best advice I can give you is to quit while your ahead with the cheap Chinesium junk and buy good hobby grade RCs. Traxxas and Arrma both have decent entry level kits. Better quality, support, and parts availability. Especially for aftermarket parts. Arrma even carries a 2 year warranty on their kits.

 

[Kyleag89]

I agree thats what I should do but can't afford it right now. I got back into the RC cars for my nephew who is only 4 and has no dad. I take him every weekend and try to see him once a week too after work. He is into anything with a motor and learns extremely quick for his age! I had him riding a small dirt bike my mother and I bought for a Christmas present when he was 3. So I'm just trying to keep the cars I have now going so he doesn't smash a $600 RC. BTW he has crashed the XLF twice and that was on the first day learning. I have broken more parts than a 4yo.. oh boy

 

[WickedFog]

You could try sourcing cvd's from another kit of the same scale and see if you can mod them to fit. Or you could try straightening and hardening the CVD's you have. Heat them up til they glow red, then drop them into a pan of used motor oil.

 

[Kyleag89]

Thats a good idea hardening them I never would have thought of that. If I did that to the XLF cvds i wouldn't have ever gone down the parts swapping rabit hole. I might order a couple but I'll try it first on the 2 good ones I still have. They fail in the same way everytime on the XLF at the drive cup where the pin connects the long part to the hub part. They are substantial compared to the tiny wltoys ones that bend anywhere and everywhere! XLF really built a solid buggy its a shame the aftermarket parts never caught on. I've had many traxxas cars years ago and 1 nitro car i can't even remember the name of because it lasted 10min before it took off on me and grenaded itself after flying 30 feet down a hill! $650 I paid and that was back in 2000-2001

 

[WickedFog]

Man that sucks!

I am no metallurgist, but I have made big allen wrenches for special jobs at work, and I hardened them that way. You should be able to find some useful info online. If you have access to a kiln, you can do an even better hardening process on them.

 

[Kyleag89]

I dont have access to a kiln but I'm sure i could get it done with my map gas torch seeing as how they're so small. What stinks is theres no way to really test whether or not it worked other than using them and see how much abuse they take.

 

[WickedFog]

Yeah, I would just get them glowing and do the oil quench. It should harden them a bit.

 

[Kyleag89]

I've experimented with different metal for the pins that hold the 2 halves together with patial success. The pin held but tore out of the cup side instead destroying it in the process! Lol So hardening it may be interesting to see what the next weak link is..

 

[WickedFog]

That's true with anything mechanical. Upgrade one thing, something else goes

 

[Jimbobjr]

Welcome, you’re a cool uncle for sure. The cvds on those are not fantastic I don’t think there’s an alternative. Not sure what fits from LC Racing either. I had a wltoys for a while and it was fun but not strong enough for a brushless system. IMHO they are best with the brushed 550 system they used to come with. The drive train does not hold up to brushless power.
You can try heating them up and quenching them as stated above but if they are not made out of tool steel which has carbon in it they will not harden.