Anodizing removal! Easy Way!

[Monster_GT_Kid]

For all u guys out there that use easy off oven cleaner or a high speed polisher there is a new way! its called greased lightning as shown in the august issue of rc driver magazine (page 88). just soak your parts in it and after about 40 minutes there done! and supposably it has no affect on hurting the part( like making it pitted or something. just thought i would share.
Lukas

 

[Tarant]

We know. https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33380


But their is am even easier way it's called Diver6127

 

[Diver6127]

HAHAHAHA, thanks Tarant. BTW, greased lightning is good for removing annodizing. I tried it out on a spare chassis with purple annodizing. Only thing is, greased lightning won't take out gouges. Only way to do that is by doing what what I do at the shop.

I am figuring out prices now. The prices will be strictly for good standing RCNT members only. It will also be a way to help leverage the RCNT monthly expenses. I have contacted FastEddy about it and he gave me the ok.

 

[vbgagnon]

I guess I'm out on the ano removing

 

[Diver6127]

Here's how I do it ....

[inwindow=300]https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30082[/inwindow]

 

[beason]

show off lol!!!

 

[Thrashman]

Hi guys, I'm new around here. I don't even have an R/C yet, but I do have one on lay-away. I saw this topic and thought I could add a little.

Well, I just stripped the anodizing off of a bunch a flashlights, and what I used was a little draino and enough water to cover the items. A couple of table spoons is about all I used (maybe less). I stripped them to send to the anodizer to have them hard anodized, type-III (clear).

It takes only minutes depending on how strong you make it. The longer type of latex gloves usually used for washing dishes is a must, along with eye protection (goggles). A tooth brush or rag is also helpful. The color, after removed, will sometimes jump back onto the metal if left in the solution...that's where the brush or small rag comes in handy. Afterwards I used Never-Dull to give them a quick polish.

Here's some pics of the lights. Some are more polished than others, in order to give a different effect to the finished product.

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[Thrashman]

Oh yeah, I forgot to add, after stripping, the items should be soaked in hot water for a few minutes to seal the aluminum.

 

[phxccw]

Do they tarnish or rust after stripping and would I be safe to maybe clear coat them???

 

[Thrashman]

Eventually, I'm sure they would tarnish, but I don't know how long it'd take. It'd probably take a while, though, and it can always be repolished. I can't remember ever seeing tarnished aluminum change color or anything, it only becomes duller. The polish will actually protect the shine. Aluminum doesn't really rust. Rust (iron oxide) is formed on metals containing iron. However, it will pit if not protected with a polish or wax, but even that'll probably take years of bad conditions, like being left outside in the cold and rain. I'm not sure about the clear coat. Normal clear coat probably wouldn't stick to the bare aluminum. There is a brand of paint called Aluma-Hyde II and other's have said it works well on aluminum, and it comes in clear. My guess is that as long as it's polished, it shouldn't be too hard to maintain and a clear coat wouldn't be necessary. A lot of people are driving around with polished aluminum rims on their cars, and they seem to stay shiny for a long while before needing to be polished. R/C Nitro cars get pretty darn hot and paint probably would not hold up very well.