kawood100
RCTalk Member
Backslash... ( I saw someone call them that somewhere )
Long ago (30 years back) I built an RC10 Mid. (WAY before all these modern mid-2wd buggies which seem to be all the rage on track ) She had that feared stealth trans, some reedy motor, long throw shocks up front.... it was painted simple gray. It was not a flashy car... just gray, a black wing & white wheels.. ribbed up front, fuzzies on the rear.
... But nobody beat it. It outhandled everyone.
In the RC10, you could just spin the transmission around and dump it between the existing arm blocks, spin the arms backwards with the motor plate on the other side. Thus, it did work. The Arms were Zero Degrees and Toe was controlled by the mounts. Those never moved because they were separate. This is why it worked. (some here figured that out too)
With the Slash, you cannot just spin the whole stock transmission around because the forward "lean" angles for the mounts of the lower arms will be wrong and, facing the wrong way. The hit of forward momentum on the truck won't act right and the rear will be "stiff" no matter what you do to it. Secondly, the Arms on the slash determine toe... when you spin them around, you're toed out. This causes the rear end to become geometrically unsound and unpredictable. (e.g. squirly, stiff feeling, won't hook up, spins out no matter what you do... etc.)
"One" way to make a mid from a slash is using the RPM gearcase, and reverse the polarity on the modern engine. RPM 0 Deg arm mounts/blocks facing the normal way. This gives you the right front momentum angles. Then, use the stock rear arms FACING FORWARD (as the toe is determined by them) drill the shock mount hole in the back of it right where the stock one should be on the other side. This puts it all in proper configuration. The RPM arms don't work for it because there isn't really enough material to use as a mount on the non-shock side. IF Rpm or anyone made a 6 Deg arm mount, you could run the arms backwards and pull it off... but they don't and the stock gearcase was designed to work one way.
Side note: You could, use RPM 3Deg mounts, with the arms backwards on a road car, that'd give a Zero Toe and could work. (e.g... Arm mounts at 3 deg, arms backwards would be -3 Deg = 0.)
Then, to make it handle right... I've put the battery across the frame, not along it like I did long ago. The Slash loves weight in the back to handle. Slip the battery back close to the motor, then you've got a huge area to place things nice & low. Bonus here: You can move the battery holes forward or back to adjust where that happy place is for you, mounting your other bits as needed.
The last part to making it handle & such... drop that back end low. Like, sitting 1/2 inch off the ground at rest... and run the front a smidge high (red springs all around)... set that slipper just right... and she'll handle after that. (watch the rotation though while airborn... behavior still leans in the 4wd realm, so one might adjust their driving style. Get used to that, and it might surprise ya.
Seen here, my goofing off. Aarma wheeels, ST-RC 14MM adapters, Wiped out a slash stock chassis for the battery box (so you can slip in them larger ones), one piece of G10 fiberglass use somee 30 yrs back in a street car build... the remnants of an HPI Jumpshot flux frame cut just so, and an LCG front end all hacked up. (and other misc things spun around, upside down, hacked, drilled, etc.)
It's a Mutt!
And you get this. An LCG Mid. It's built to be flexible in areas allowing it to "probably"... rule the track again. We'll test it soon after I make a few things for it. It's all just misc crap for now. I'm not done yet making it tall purdy.
Oh yes, body mounts in the rear are 1/2" behind normal here. Front is the same.
Yep.
Long ago (30 years back) I built an RC10 Mid. (WAY before all these modern mid-2wd buggies which seem to be all the rage on track ) She had that feared stealth trans, some reedy motor, long throw shocks up front.... it was painted simple gray. It was not a flashy car... just gray, a black wing & white wheels.. ribbed up front, fuzzies on the rear.
... But nobody beat it. It outhandled everyone.
In the RC10, you could just spin the transmission around and dump it between the existing arm blocks, spin the arms backwards with the motor plate on the other side. Thus, it did work. The Arms were Zero Degrees and Toe was controlled by the mounts. Those never moved because they were separate. This is why it worked. (some here figured that out too)
With the Slash, you cannot just spin the whole stock transmission around because the forward "lean" angles for the mounts of the lower arms will be wrong and, facing the wrong way. The hit of forward momentum on the truck won't act right and the rear will be "stiff" no matter what you do to it. Secondly, the Arms on the slash determine toe... when you spin them around, you're toed out. This causes the rear end to become geometrically unsound and unpredictable. (e.g. squirly, stiff feeling, won't hook up, spins out no matter what you do... etc.)
"One" way to make a mid from a slash is using the RPM gearcase, and reverse the polarity on the modern engine. RPM 0 Deg arm mounts/blocks facing the normal way. This gives you the right front momentum angles. Then, use the stock rear arms FACING FORWARD (as the toe is determined by them) drill the shock mount hole in the back of it right where the stock one should be on the other side. This puts it all in proper configuration. The RPM arms don't work for it because there isn't really enough material to use as a mount on the non-shock side. IF Rpm or anyone made a 6 Deg arm mount, you could run the arms backwards and pull it off... but they don't and the stock gearcase was designed to work one way.
Side note: You could, use RPM 3Deg mounts, with the arms backwards on a road car, that'd give a Zero Toe and could work. (e.g... Arm mounts at 3 deg, arms backwards would be -3 Deg = 0.)
Then, to make it handle right... I've put the battery across the frame, not along it like I did long ago. The Slash loves weight in the back to handle. Slip the battery back close to the motor, then you've got a huge area to place things nice & low. Bonus here: You can move the battery holes forward or back to adjust where that happy place is for you, mounting your other bits as needed.
The last part to making it handle & such... drop that back end low. Like, sitting 1/2 inch off the ground at rest... and run the front a smidge high (red springs all around)... set that slipper just right... and she'll handle after that. (watch the rotation though while airborn... behavior still leans in the 4wd realm, so one might adjust their driving style. Get used to that, and it might surprise ya.
Seen here, my goofing off. Aarma wheeels, ST-RC 14MM adapters, Wiped out a slash stock chassis for the battery box (so you can slip in them larger ones), one piece of G10 fiberglass use somee 30 yrs back in a street car build... the remnants of an HPI Jumpshot flux frame cut just so, and an LCG front end all hacked up. (and other misc things spun around, upside down, hacked, drilled, etc.)
It's a Mutt!
And you get this. An LCG Mid. It's built to be flexible in areas allowing it to "probably"... rule the track again. We'll test it soon after I make a few things for it. It's all just misc crap for now. I'm not done yet making it tall purdy.
Oh yes, body mounts in the rear are 1/2" behind normal here. Front is the same.
Yep.
)
