I'd get RPM arms. Need to have something in there that will flex or you will end up busting more expensive/harder to replace parts.
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2wd Slash: Way To Squirrelly
- Thread starter macanic21
- Start date
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cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
You can see how brittle the arms are ,RPM's are a softer arm to allow some flexing!...
So +1 what olds97 said!....
So +1 what olds97 said!....
macanic21
RCTalk Rookie
- Thread starter
- #23
I thought about the need to maintain some flex for shock absorption. The problem with this stuff is you kind of have to pick something that will break and just have spare parts around. I didn't realize that the RPM arms were designed to be more flexible. We'll see how it goes I guess, already have the Integy ones ordered. I'll try to get some video next time it's out.
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
RPM arms isn't that expensive ,they are only 10 to 12 bucks a set!...
cbaker65
RCTalk VIP
macanic21
RCTalk Rookie
- Thread starter
- #26
Well guys, I have finally gotten this thing to a point where it has run for a few tanks in a row! And my brother didn't break it last time it was out either!. Also I got to run both trucks at the same time for a whole tank before something broke!
We haven't really wrecked the slash with the aluminum rear arms on it yet so we will see how the long term durability is. The anti-squat shims seem to be effective also. Between the shocks and those there isn't much squat at all under acceleration now. I have the 1.5* shims in it.
Eventually I'm going to lighten up the oil in the rear and stiffen up the springs. The rear is just too stiff to follow the bumps well enough although it does jump real nicely.
The 70/22 gears were still WAY TO LONG! I got a 72/18 set which is the smallest advertised by Traxxas. I'm not extremely happy with the mesh because the carb hits the transmission housing preventing me from sliding the engine back as far as I would like. These are the gears to go with though! It is so much more drivable, and it doesn't need to be going a million miles an hour to be in the power band anymore. I'm totally impressed with this thing in a drag race. On pavement against the slayer it is basically the same. I think the slayer pulls ahead on the top end a little but you would never notice just driving around. The slash is running a 2.5r and the slayer is 2-speed with a 3.3.
I have to take the diff apart again and try sealing it up myself with some of that 500k diff oil. It has loosened up and makes it basically impossible to apply power while turning. I filled the diffs in the Halix I just got my wife with it and it is crazy thick stuff. Its about the consistency of silicone caulk. Unfortunately it doesn't make the diffs as stiff as I hopped it would. I would recommend doing this to anything you have with sealed diffs unless you have them fully locked.
I took some video I'll get uploaded sometime, hopefully it turned out OK.
We haven't really wrecked the slash with the aluminum rear arms on it yet so we will see how the long term durability is. The anti-squat shims seem to be effective also. Between the shocks and those there isn't much squat at all under acceleration now. I have the 1.5* shims in it.
Eventually I'm going to lighten up the oil in the rear and stiffen up the springs. The rear is just too stiff to follow the bumps well enough although it does jump real nicely.
The 70/22 gears were still WAY TO LONG! I got a 72/18 set which is the smallest advertised by Traxxas. I'm not extremely happy with the mesh because the carb hits the transmission housing preventing me from sliding the engine back as far as I would like. These are the gears to go with though! It is so much more drivable, and it doesn't need to be going a million miles an hour to be in the power band anymore. I'm totally impressed with this thing in a drag race. On pavement against the slayer it is basically the same. I think the slayer pulls ahead on the top end a little but you would never notice just driving around. The slash is running a 2.5r and the slayer is 2-speed with a 3.3.
I have to take the diff apart again and try sealing it up myself with some of that 500k diff oil. It has loosened up and makes it basically impossible to apply power while turning. I filled the diffs in the Halix I just got my wife with it and it is crazy thick stuff. Its about the consistency of silicone caulk. Unfortunately it doesn't make the diffs as stiff as I hopped it would. I would recommend doing this to anything you have with sealed diffs unless you have them fully locked.
I took some video I'll get uploaded sometime, hopefully it turned out OK.
