2 speed ntc3 nitro gears upgrades?

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street silence

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So my gear started whining I’m not really sure if the back (bigger) gear is second or first gear? Is there any upgrades to make me go faster? I found a smaller gear option part for the ntc3 nitro.
 
small gear doesn't make you go faster large 1 does.
 
So my gear started whining I’m not really sure if the back (bigger) gear is second or first gear? Is there any upgrades to make me go faster? I found a smaller gear option part for the ntc3 nitro.
The bigger spur gear at the back is first gear. The smaller the spur gear the faster the top speed, the bigger the more torque. Clutchbells (or pinion gears in electric RCs) are the opposite. bigger is more top speed and smaller is more torque.

small gear doesn't make you go faster large 1 does.
Hes talking about the spur gears on the 2 speed transmission bro.
 
Okay cool is their a easier way to remove the transmission I have a picture here. Can I remove the rear case & slide it out
 

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I honestly do not remember. Its been 10+ years since I've owned that car and I think I only ever took the diff apart once or twice.
 
You think this 40pds springs will make my cvd bone stick out this is how they sit
 

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You dont need to remove the whole diff because the diff splits at the rear ,when you
take the shock tower off ,then you un screw the top of the rear diff housing ,then you
can pull out the 2 spd gear assembly!





 
You dont need to remove the whole diff because the diff splits at the rear ,when you
take the shock tower off ,then you un screw the top of the rear diff housing ,then you
can pull out the 2 spd gear assembly!





I just took mine off and my ntc3 only has one bearing in the rear yours got 2
 
Can I get longer cvd bones
 
Can I get longer cvd bones

Not sure ,however ,the pics that I showed is not an Ntc3 ,it is the Ofna LD3 ,but they are built in the
same way ,but Ofna's running gear was built better with metal gears & dual bearing an capable of
handling bigger power!
Usually with these models ,they did not have longer arms an axles ,there was never no need for
them an you was stuck with the original parts or the optional light weight parts like aluminum
axles & drive shafts ,carbon fiber ,an aluminum screws!..
I have the Ntc3 ,but it is a shelf queen an I think that I do have an extra 2 spd hub & gear set up
laying around!
I can get it out an take pics of it an post it!
It is very important to keep those gears in line an shimmed properly with out slop or wobble!...:cool:
 
Not sure ,however ,the pics that I showed is not an Ntc3 ,it is the Ofna LD3 ,but they are built in the
same way ,but Ofna's running gear was built better with metal gears & dual bearing an capable of
handling bigger power!
Usually with these models ,they did not have longer arms an axles ,there was never no need for
them an you was stuck with the original parts or the optional light weight parts like aluminum
axles & drive shafts ,carbon fiber ,an aluminum screws!..
I have the Ntc3 ,but it is a shelf queen an I think that I do have an extra 2 spd hub & gear set up
laying around!
I can get it out an take pics of it an post it!
It is very important to keep those gears in line an shimmed properly with out slop or wobble!...:cool:
You should send some pictures when you can. That be nice having metal gears. I went through the car rn and the bottom motor nuts where loose mine is the RTR +
 
The axels are original black ones but the left side came off twice already on little small runs I did
 
You should send some pictures when you can. That be nice having metal gears. I went through the car rn and the bottom motor nuts where loose mine is the RTR +

Yea ,you always got to keep the engine mount screws in check ,that is my issue with the Ld3's ,I have to
buy some more spur gears because of that ,the thing about 2 spd gears ,you have to buy 2 gears when
things go south!... :hehe:
 
The axels are original black ones but the left side came off twice already on little small runs I did

I would have to see what mine is ,I think they made 2 types a straight bone type & a cv type ,I
am not sure what my Tc3 has ,But I think the CV type was an upgrade!
The fronts ,the pillow ball hub could be adjusted in more so that the axles stay in better ,so
if the rear has the pillow ball style hub ,they to can be adjusted inward ,a lot of people make
that mistake by not having the hubs set right ,an have them too far out allowing the axle to
pop out when the suspension travels!
 
I would have to see what mine is ,I think they made 2 types a straight bone type & a cv type ,I
am not sure what my Tc3 has ,But I think the CV type was an upgrade!
The fronts ,the pillow ball hub could be adjusted in more so that the axles stay in better ,so
if the rear has the pillow ball style hub ,they to can be adjusted inward ,a lot of people make
that mistake by not having the hubs set right ,an have them too far out allowing the axle to
pop out when the suspension travels!
So I got some aluminum lower arms they look to be the same diameter but the ball screw is shorter & wont go in it stops at a point that might be the problem
 
So I got some aluminum lower arms they look to be the same diameter but the ball screw is shorter & wont go in it stops at a point that might be the problem

I just looked at mine ,it is the stock bone axles with pillow ball hubs front & rear!
You can try cutting a little bit of the threads off on the pillow balls ,but have to be
careful an not mess up the thread ,however ,if you had a chaser nut to clean up the
end of the cut thread will help!.. :cool:
 
I just looked at mine ,it is the stock bone axles with pillow ball hubs front & rear!
You can try cutting a little bit of the threads off on the pillow balls ,but have to be
careful an not mess up the thread ,however ,if you had a chaser nut to clean up the
end of the cut thread will help!.. :cool:
I have the 40lb springs would that affect anything? The thing about the pillow ball it’s shorter then the original ones and they don’t screw all the way in. I have a set of original front arms I might just replace the aluminum ones back to the carbon
 
I have the 40lb springs would that affect anything? The thing about the pillow ball it’s shorter then the original ones and they don’t screw all the way in. I have a set of original front arms I might just replace the aluminum ones back to the carbon

If the ride high sits too high ,it will effect the axle bone ,you dont want the rebound of the shock
travel too far were the bone pops out of the cup ,this is notorious on MT's when they are jumping ,I
have had plenty of them pop out until I finally realized what was causing it ,it was from having my
ride height set too high ,but the shock travel also works together with that!
But sense it is a street car ,you dont need too high of a ride height an you should have some little
grub screws in the a-arms to pre-set the height to eliminate the travel!.. :cool:
 
I got these for like 10-15 bucks & they suck ass. The ball doesn’t crew all the way in compare to the plastic longer black ball nuts
 

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I got these for like 10-15 bucks & they suck ass. The ball doesn’t crew all the way in compare to the plastic longer black ball nuts

They look nice ,but sometimes it is best to keep the originals ,besides ,aluminum may just redirect the impact
to another part an create damage else where!... :thumbs-up:
 

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