12mm wheel hexes

[Caleb90]

I would like to order some aluminum wheel hexes for my rival mt10. But was not sure if they are universal or model specific? When i look up rival mt10 hexes i just keep getting the plastic ones

 

[nino]

Not really universal, axle diameter, pin length, diameter and depth, thickness... Cheapo ones are available for 4-5$ a set, so I'd risk it and see if they work.

 

[Caleb90]

I will measure mine when i get home then

 

[ahr43]

Caleb,

Here is a comparison image of the MT10 12mm wheel hex on the left, and a Traxxas (aka TRX) 12mm aluminum wheel hex on the right. Both have a 5mm bore. Both are 6mm high. The MT10 axle pin is 2mm diam x 10mm lgth. The TRX pin is also 2mm diam, but shorter in length at 6mm. Note that the slot for the pin on the MT10 hex does not extend all the way to the sides. That helps capture the pin in place. On the TRX AL hex, the pin slot extends all the way across. This allows the TRX AL hex to work with the longer MT10 pin. Something to look for when shopping for your hex.

Bottom line-the TRX AL hex from my basher stash fits up A.O.K. to the MT10 axle and allows for fitment of the wheel. Regret I cannot provide you a part number for the TRX AL hex. Recall using them on my R1E bracket racing truck back 2006, but any additional info am unable to provide. Perhaps one or other of the guys on here can. Hope this helps. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Caleb90]

Just measured mine with calipers. Hex is 6mm thick but shaft size is 5mm. Pin is 10mm long 2mm diamater

 

[olds97_lss]

The pin length isn't quite as important as the depth it goes into the hex. If the hex you buy is deeper (or the pin required is larger), it will allow the hex to drive into the side of the axle bearing when you tighten the wheel nut. At minimum, it will shorten the life of the bearing due to excess side load if it's only a little deeper. If the depth is more shallow than what you have, you can put shims in between the bearing and the pin to take up the excess slop.

 

[ahr43]

Just measured mine with calipers. Hex is 6mm thick but shaft size is 5mm. Pin is 10mm long 2mm diamater

Right you are! My bad. 4mm threads. 5mm bearing and hex shaft. I claim a senior moment. Corrected bore on both the MT10 hex and TRX hex is 5mm. Did an edit and highlighted correction to my original post. 'AC'

The pin length isn't quite as important as the depth it goes into the hex. If the hex you buy is deeper (or the pin required is larger), it will allow the hex to drive into the side of the axle bearing when you tighten the wheel nut. At minimum, it will shorten the life of the bearing due to excess side load if it's only a little deeper. If the depth is more shallow than what you have, you can put shims in between the bearing and the pin to take up the excess slop.

Exactly and a point well brought out. Had that exact problem with a set of after-market pin drive wheels I ran on my RC10GT brushless conversion a few years ago.

Gone are the days when we could go to the local hobby shop and test fit off the peg board before buying. Really tricky upgrading outside what the manu offers any more. That and specs on an item are often non-existent buying on line.

'AC'

 

[olds97_lss]

Exactly and a point well brought out. Had that exact problem with a set of after-market pin drive wheels I ran on my RC10GT brushless conversion a few years ago.

Gone are the days when we could go to the local hobby shop and test fit off the peg board before buying. Really tricky upgrading outside what the manu offers any more. That and specs on an item are often non-existent buying on line.

'AC'

I had the same issue many years ago with aftermarket 14mm hex's for a t-maxx. The hole was so far off that I couldn't get the pin in. In my infinite wisdom, I drilled the hole out a little in the hex (wasn't just a detent in the back, was a hole through the side of the hex). However, my lizard brain didn't comprehend that by drilling the hole to be larger, I caused a new problem. When I tightened the axle nut... the wheels wouldn't turn anymore.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Caleb,

Here is a comparison image of the MT10 12mm wheel hex on the left, and a Traxxas (aka TRX) 12mm aluminum wheel hex on the right. Both have a 5mm bore. Both are 6mm high. The MT10 axle pin is 2mm diam x 10mm lgth. The TRX pin is also 2mm diam, but shorter in length at 6mm. Note that the slot for the pin on the MT10 hex does not extend all the way to the sides. That helps capture the pin in place. On the TRX AL hex, the pin slot extends all the way across. This allows the TRX AL hex to work with the longer MT10 pin. Something to look for when shopping for your hex.

Bottom line-the TRX AL hex from my basher stash fits up A.O.K. to the MT10 axle and allows for fitment of the wheel. Regret I cannot provide you a part number for the TRX AL hex. Recall using them on my R1E bracket racing truck back 2006, but any additional info am unable to provide. Perhaps one or other of the guys on here can. Hope this helps. Cheers. 'AC'

Part number for the metal hexes is "8269", and there are 5 different colors, dull brass, blue, green, red, and silver: https://traxxas.com/products/search?f[0]=field_categories:112043

I don't know why, but the first metal wheels hex is $5 for a pair, with the drive pins and axle stubs, but the other colors, sold in 2 pairs of 2 hexes (4 total) with 4 drive pins (no axles stubs) are $22? So if you don't care about the color (you can't really see wheel hexes anyway after they are installed and with the wheels on), go for the first, brass colored ones, way better value and way lower price.

 

[Caleb90]

So i could get this n test my luck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0818K2V5N/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A1MUD8NJZFJJAX&psc=1

Or should i just get oem traxxas

 

[ahr43]

Yikes. Update. Went back out to the workshop and measured the gap between the shoulder on both the MT10 nylon hex and TRX aluminum hex. 0.024" with the MT10 hex tightened in place. 0.022" with the TRX. So o.k. there on clearance. No bearing race bind.

BUT. In doing that, noticed that half the diameter of the axle pin is exposed using the TRX aluminum hex. Slot is not deep enough to seat the pin fully into the hex.

Thinking now, it might be iffy going with the TRX AL without having a set to check if slot depth is deep enough. One might be shooting oneself in the foot trying to adapt the TRX AL in the stead of the MT10 nylons. Might end up causing more grief than benefit. Wheel would only have to loosen a wee bit and the pin would squirt out. Or, pin wear will be excessive.

Caleb, hope all this rabbit holing is a help. If you do find a set that works, please to post it up. For me, sticking with the nylon hexes for now on the street stock MT10. But for the Project MT10 I'm just starting, aluminum wheel hexes might be a future consideration.

Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Caleb90]

I might stop at my local shop and see what they have and fit some thing up

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Yikes. Update. Went back out to the workshop and measured the gap between the shoulder on both the MT10 nylon hex and TRX aluminum hex. 0.024" with the MT10 hex tightened in place. 0.022" with the TRX. So o.k. there on clearance. No bearing race bind.

BUT. In doing that, noticed that half the diameter of the axle pin is exposed using the TRX aluminum hex. Slot is not deep enough to seat the pin fully into the hex.

Thinking now, it might be iffy going with the TRX AL without having a set to check if slot depth is deep enough. One might be shooting oneself in the foot trying to adapt the TRX AL in the stead of the MT10 nylons. Might end up causing more grief than benefit. Wheel would only have to loosen a wee bit and the pin would squirt out. Or, pin wear will be excessive.

Caleb, hope all this rabbit holing is a help. If you do find a set that works, please to post it up. For me, sticking with the nylon hexes for now on the street stock MT10. But for the Project MT10 I'm just starting, aluminum wheel hexes might be a future consideration.

Cheers. 'AC'

Yeah, dropping pins would not be good! And while you could dremel out the groove so it's deeper, that'd be a lot of work just for a wheel hex. Perhaps just try the stock plastic hexes and see how they hold up.

 

[Caleb90]

Goibg to try these two sets from amazon because there cheap. If they dont work i will just return them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KN2MCSZ/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A2GFPY5BXR1N55&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0818K2V5N/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A1MUD8NJZFJJAX&psc=1

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Goibg to try these two sets from amazon because there cheap. If they dont work i will just return them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KN2MCSZ/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A2GFPY5BXR1N55&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0818K2V5N/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A1MUD8NJZFJJAX&psc=1

Looks good! But the grub screws on the first set seem a bit long...seems like if you were to put it on the axle stub all the way (as a hex sits), the grub screws would be too long, so long that the threaded part won't even touch the hex screw hole.

 

[WickedFog]

Looks good! But the grub screws on the first set seem a bit long...seems like if you were to put it on the axle stub all the way (as a hex sits), the grub screws would be too long, so long that the threaded part won't even touch the hex screw hole.

Those longer grubs take place of the axle pin. They go all the way through the axle.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Those longer grubs take place of the axle pin. They go all the way through the axle.

Oh, oh, oh! I see, that'd a cool design! This way the hex or "pin" can't come loose or get lost easily! To @Caleb90, make sure to Loctite the grub screws!

 

[WickedFog]

Oh, oh, oh! I see, that'd a cool design!

It is and it isn't. Mostly is, but you have to take the grub all the way out to remove the hex. Which isn't that big a deal because the regular ones you have to fiddle with the pins. The regular ones are just a bit faster since you just back the grub off slightly.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

It is and it isn't. Mostly is, but you have to take the grub all the way out to remove the hex. Which isn't that big a deal because the regular ones you have to fiddle with the pins. The regular ones are just a bit faster since you just back the grub off slightly.

I see your point! I think that the full length grub screw option is the most secure (which is handy for bigger vehicles especially), but is the slowest. The smaller grub screw option is faster, but probably slightly less secure (I'm wondering how much less secure, if you tighten them up snug, how hard would you have to pull on them for them to pop off the axle stub?). I would pick either of the two grub-screw designs, as I don't take the hexes off very often. The hexes that come on my rigs are plastic, with no grub screw whatsoever, like a lot of the hexes that come on cars!

 

[olds97_lss]

I see your point! I think that the full length grub screw option is the most secure (which is handy for bigger vehicles especially), but is the slowest. The smaller grub screw option is faster, but probably slightly less secure (I'm wondering how much less secure, if you tighten them up snug, how hard would you have to pull on them for them to pop off the axle stub?). I would pick either of the two grub-screw designs, as I don't take the hexes off very often. The hexes that come on my rigs are plastic, with no grub screw whatsoever, like a lot of the hexes that come on cars!

Another benefit of the screw in pin is that if you strip one, at most, you have to ruin a hex/hub. But with ones that are secured via the end of the cvd shaft, it can cost you a hex and a shaft because you can't get the stupid grub out.