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- Thread starter RC Jack
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Why is the brass part threaded? Testing another mounting option?
I like how you designed the dove-tail into the calliper block. Should prove to be very strong and precise.
I like how you designed the dove-tail into the calliper block. Should prove to be very strong and precise.
hand machining this has got to be hard.....respect man....RE-SPECT
- Thread starter
- #64
ZANDOR said:
My bench is never that messy; I've just been so busy, I haven't had time to straighten it out! But, that has to stop, 'cuz I can't find sh!t! :LOL:
olds97_lss said:
The threaded brass piece was, past tense, for mounting the actuator arm. You'll notice that there are "flats" milled into it, which I abandoned in favor of a clamp-type arm. However, I will put a screw in that hole for added strength. This wasn't intended, just a by-product. The dovetail calipers have a nice action to them, 'cept for the springs, much too strong! A softer spring is in order here. Now to find some clik-type pens in this house, ones that I already haven't raided for springs. LOL
Plaidfish said:
Thank you, Plaidfish, but, I wouldn't exactly call it "hand-machining". I do have power feeds along the "X" & "Y" axis. Some of the machining is done manually if the parts are too small, tho. But, if you're referring to as opposed to CNC, then, you might be right. But, I enjoy what I do and to let a 'puter do it for me, takes the fun, enjoyment & "therapy" out of it.
I just got a small Mill / lathe that's about 50 years old...I don't know what brand but the thing is a tank...weighs as much as an Engine block (1:1 scale)....I have metal stock coming this week...if I can get the inspiration I'll be CnCing a new Chassis for my truck then I'll mill out what I don't want.....any suggestions on how to layout a drivetrain on a flat chassis? I'm gonna try and use the OFNA 2/speed center diff instead of the Storm diff.....and use the Mugen radio box....I was going to bolt everything to a cheap peice of aluminum and get everything lined up, cut the chassis w/o holes except 2 for a guide..then bolt the cheap peice w/ the holes already in it use it as a jig to drill out on the cut chassis....have a better way or any advice on what to watch out for in my process here.....the metal is expensive so I don't wanna screw mine up.....RC Jack said:
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- #68
Plaidfish said:
Congrats on getting a lathe/mill! Being 50yrs old, I'm pretty sure it's not a CNC, tho! As for how-to lay out your drivetrain, you are the only one that knows what you want. What I will say the key here is PLANNING, PLANNING, PLANNING! Machining is the easy part, it's the planning, or lack of it that screws thing up. You might get a piece 3/4 done, but, from lack of planning, you can't machine the other 1/4 'cuz there's no way to hold that piece without either damaging it or holding it safely. THIS WILL HAPPEN(!), and you can take that to the bank! Ithink this process is called...learning! LOL The key to being a great pool player is to plan several shots ahead, generally, 3-6 shots ahead; machining is the same; plan several operations ahead so that you won't be stuck with a "screw-up".
As for using a "template" made from cheap aluminum as a jig, it'll just get in the way. If you choose to do it this way, use the template to take measurements from and NOT as a jig.
Another thing you can do to make a template,
, is to use wood. That's right, wood! Wood is "cheap", well, cheaper than aluminum, and if you screw it up, you have kindling. By the way, wood machines nicely on the mill. To turn wood on the lathe, you'll have to make a tool rest. Plus you can get all kinds of routing bits to make tons of various cuts.
As for lathe cutters, I would get THESE. It's a 38piece set of cutters and they are about as cheap as you can get, but, they are also good cutters, too! Their value comes when you have to grind the cutter shape to get the results you need, knowing you have several others of the same variety, so, it won't be your only cutter of that style. You'll also need a 4-jaw chuck for turning those odd-shaped parts on your lathe, such as, square pieces to make a part of it round....or whatever. Your machine probablycame with a "dead-center", IMO, you'll need a "live-center".
For endmills, I use McMaster and Enco, but, mainly McMaster. I'd stay away from imported endmills. Go with US cutters, such as Putnam or Weldon, etc. The imported endmills cut fine, but, they are very hard, so, if youdrop them on the concrete floor....FUBAR! You can get these for around $2-$3 each.
You'll also be needing a clamping set, I'd go with and IMPORT here , which is what I have and have had for over 3 yrs and they work fine.
Calipers, dial indicators, I'd go with imports. Brown & Sharp, Mitutoyo, Starrett are all top of the line, but, imports do the same thing. I sometimes abuse mine, which I would never do to a Brown & Sharp unit, so..... As for a dial indicator, THESE work nicely and you can't beat the price. Every now & again, Enco will have a special on these for $7, just the indicator, no magnetic stand.
Somewhere down the line, you'll need a ROTARY TABLE, to make small round parts using your mill. This is the one that I have and it's an 8", which weighs in at 92lbs!! A 10" would have been better, but, my name isn't ARNOLD, either.
Also, I'd have Enco send you one of their catalogues, as well as McMaster's. There are other places to order from, but, I deal mainy with these 2.
Yes, this can get into "money", but, it's rewarding, too! And if you're not careful, you could learn something. LOL
Find out what kind of machine you have & post pix. I'd start a new topic and maybe draw some interest.
Just remember, planning is key! And have fun doing it!!
cool thanks for th einfo....I've got clamps and Chucks from an old S. Bend lathe that actually fit this one.....I was told this might be a S. Bend machine but I've never seen one that was a cobo unit like this.....I have to help pop cleant he shop this sunday so I have a table to work on....the rotary table is that mounted under the whole unit or like a table under the cutter.....I've been trying different angles of running the plate under the mill to see if I can fit the part in the way it needs to...I think that won't be a problem getting at all the parts I need to mill down.....I'm going to get 5mm plate and mill down non critical parts to 3mm and leave a lip around the whole thing w/ ribs connecting the beefier parts.....the part I'm concerned w/ is the layout and lining up what I want to the chassis once it's been cut....I'd have the holes CnC'd out but I've had issues getting the measurements right in the CADD drawing so I'm drilling them out on a press.......yeah I have one of those too....and a 20ton press.....Have no friggin use for it but I got it brand new for next to nothing (literally) and couldn't let it go.......I need to get more cutters though I looked at my latest Mcmaster catalog and saw it was 8 years old...now i have an excuse to get a new one..yay....do you know if you can bend 7075-T6 aluminum?....I want to do a kick up front to my chassis and that extends the length og my initial cut about 5 inches....
- Thread starter
- #70
Sounds like you have things in hand! I've never known South Bend to make a combo unit, either. Asfar as I know, they just made lathes As for the rotary table, that goes beneath the cutter and on top of the milling table and held down with "T" bolts. A 20-ton press? That could come in handy, tho, I have no idea why! :LOL:
As for bending 7075, you could, but, I wouldn't. Now that you have a mill, why not just mill the kickup into the chassis?
A couple of other things. When I buy stock, I get it in .250", .375", .500", 1.0" thickness and at least 6-8 wide, with lengths of 36" or more. On some sites, if you buy in quantity, even small quantities, you'll get a discount. And don't throw anything out! Not even screw-ups! Even the smallest pieces can be re-used for something else. I keep all of my small pieces & screw-ups in a small box, ya never know when that little screw-up piece will fit the bill for something else perfectly.
If you're going to runs pieces at an angle, make sure it's secure at several points with a "backing" or you'll end up with severe chatter and chatter will effect the finish.
Vises! I have 4, but, the one that I use most often is a lock-down vise, similar to a KURT.
I wish I could do CAD/CAM, but, I can't, I don't have the time to learn it. If your machine is a CNC, then, it's not 50yrs old. There were no 'puters back then. So, how 'bout some pix?
As for bending 7075, you could, but, I wouldn't. Now that you have a mill, why not just mill the kickup into the chassis?
A couple of other things. When I buy stock, I get it in .250", .375", .500", 1.0" thickness and at least 6-8 wide, with lengths of 36" or more. On some sites, if you buy in quantity, even small quantities, you'll get a discount. And don't throw anything out! Not even screw-ups! Even the smallest pieces can be re-used for something else. I keep all of my small pieces & screw-ups in a small box, ya never know when that little screw-up piece will fit the bill for something else perfectly.
If you're going to runs pieces at an angle, make sure it's secure at several points with a "backing" or you'll end up with severe chatter and chatter will effect the finish.
Vises! I have 4, but, the one that I use most often is a lock-down vise, similar to a KURT.
I wish I could do CAD/CAM, but, I can't, I don't have the time to learn it. If your machine is a CNC, then, it's not 50yrs old. There were no 'puters back then. So, how 'bout some pix?
I'll get some this weekend.....so you can see the antiqueness of it...I'm just guessing at the age...but it seems to be pretty friggin old.......at least early 70s...it is definately not a CnC machine.....the one I have access to belongs to the guy running the IT dept at my job...he owns another company and they use it to make marble tile inlays for some property management company......he cuts me stuff for cost of running the machine if I can give him a CADD file they finish the format so the machine can use it......I'm not great w/ AutoCADD but I can get 2d drawings done pretty easy....I want to learn 3d modeling for CnC ....If I don't get a vacation then I'm going to go back to school and learn that...I'm seriously considering a career change and would love to work w/ CnC machinery.......cool stuff and you can see the results of your labor at the end of a day (or week)... I can't mill the kick on th eway I want it...I'd need a 4" thick block to get a 5mm chassis...LOL...talk about waste.....I want about 5" to kick up at a 75 deg angle so milling that would be very hard to do...I guess the 7075 don't bend easy huh? thanks again..... post more pics
I wish I had all that skill, I'm just luck enough to have access to some cool equipment to play around w/....my dad has a shop that makes and refurbs canning/filling/bottling equipment.....I wish I could just sit there all day and try new stuff out....but that whole paying bills or saving for your future BS gets in the way........I tried to make some aluminum steering links for my T-maxx and I failed 4 times already....that poop is hard........I figure now I'll have my own mill lathe at home and I can try more small stuff.....the Donut Patrol and Pie Wagon are just too cool....I'd love to make something like that one day......
Hey how hard is it to machine rims? I mean I know its tough and the novice couldnt do it, I only ask cuz my dad is a machinest and has machined me out ALOT of parts for my rc's. I never bothered to ask about rims because I thought they be to tough.. hmm..... Ill have to hit him up for some rims..lol.. Must be 2 piece huh? Looks good!! Nice work!
- Thread starter
- #76
4u2nv said:
It's not hard at all, just time consuming, tho, in order to make a set ot rims, your dad may hafta call in a few "favors"(!).
4u2nv said:
So....you're...........I'm not even going to touch this one! :LoL: :LoL: :LoL:
Sick man....seek help....I think you've bonded a little too much w/ your machines....LOL
- Thread starter
- #78
Plaidfish said:
Hey, Plaidfish, bonded a little too much w/my machines? LOL I'll have you know that I always practice "safe machining"........I always use a conumdrum! LOL
Well that being...ah...said..... LOL
Update!! Donut Patrols' frame is too narrow for both engines and the trans is too wide for the frame!!! "Film at 11!"
I thought of widening it, but, it would probably have that "highly sought after" "butchered look", so.........
The new frame is 1 inch longer and 1 inch wider:
CorradoPsi
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haha, dont ya just love it when a plan comes together?
RC Jack said:
Yes but is it wrapped around an enigma?????