Would you recommend buggies over short course?

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The Undertaker

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Maybe I'll get a racer after a cheaper car. That is if I like the hobby . only time will tell.
 

tow_glinka

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Well, then go for the Arrma. You will have a good rig for bashing, which is always nice to have, you can still get a racer later down the line if you like the hobby.
I mean, the 1/16 E-Revo VXL is 250$, the Arrma Granite / Senton / Typhon 300$. The Granite is the best option for bashing, the Senton will be a SCT that will be good for bashing and might do alright on track. It won't be the fastest car ever, but it will be an option to get a first glimps on track driving (or get the Granite and put Stadium Truck tires on when going to the track).
 

The Undertaker

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I really like arrma vehicles because I've heard they're very tough, and great bashers. I saw a video of kevin talbot on youtube send a arrma kraton so far in the air. it survived many blows and hits to the ground.
 

Arrmajunk

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Dude I be Honest, with you 1/16 fun for a run but that’s it, unless your going to race in a dedicated class or your friends have one that size too, my Friend has two small ones I can’t think what the other is but one is a cheap WLToys 1401 ?‍♂️. He stuffed a 5000kv 3650size motor in it . And make no mistake it’s a Flaming Lunatic I need my 1/8scales on 6s to keep up with that thing. BUT he doesn’t want too because it’s tiny put that next to my Kraton he runs a Mile?. But that’s the point it’s like a juggernaut having a row with a Robin Reliant.!
Arrma Typhoon 3s is a cheap basher, you can race it but it’s not the best but it’s cheap and shares Many if the Parts with Rhe Senton and the Big Rock. , if you want to that $500 budget. I’d suggest Losi Tenacity Pro.! Not the Plastic version!!!
Rip out the Salty steering Servo for a Savox.
Change the Diff weight oil. Heavy middle, light rear, Medium in front. It’s a solid car but it may not be allowed to Race under strict brca rules but local club bash it will do
 

Arrmajunk

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Don’t worry about Kevin Talbot he can afford to F”K it up . He make more out of one video than the cost of the Car.
the Arrma build quality is kinda hit n miss .
my Senton Shocks Leaked on grass with no jumps after its 1st run.
after about 3runs the Back bearing in the Motor seized, I had a Job n half to get mine to run freely the diff rubs the yoke causing a drag putting load on the motor , also The ESC LVC isn’t changeable and it’s cuts out around 3.89 volts per cell. So your run time are a little shorter . They cheap but not perfect but with a little time spent fiddling it can be a good truck .
 

cbaker65

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Don’t worry about Kevin Talbot he can afford to F”K it up . He make more out of one video than the cost of the Car.
the Arrma build quality is kinda hit n miss .
my Senton Shocks Leaked on grass with no jumps after its 1st run.
after about 3runs the Back bearing in the Motor seized, I had a Job n half to get mine to run freely the diff rubs the yoke causing a drag putting load on the motor , also The ESC LVC isn’t changeable and it’s cuts out around 3.89 volts per cell. So your run time are a little shorter . They cheap but not perfect but with a little time spent fiddling it can be a good truck .

LOL....Oh ,then that explains your name!.....?
 

Arrmajunk

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LOL....Oh ,then that explains your name!.....?
Yeah I have a Kraton 6s V3 I chucked the ESC and Motor out kept it spare, Went with a Hobbywing 2200kv Max8 combo. Goes like ? from a shovel . That’s probably about arrmas best Model the 1/8 scales .
the1/5th Scale Kraton $1000 really not worth it and weak .
Have a look into the Tenacity DB Pro it’s Quite nice! It rises bumps brilliant it’s very well balanced on Jumps all be it Small Air .
You’d Like it I reckon it’s Sturdy .
 

tow_glinka

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@Arrmajunk
Well, the shocks are a known issue on the 3S line, but mine held up alright to be honest. They tend to leak from time to time, but there is a permanent relatively cheap fix for that.
On the Motor bearings...while that sucks, usually Arrma has a great warranty, I would just have contacted Horizon Hobby...my ESC died about after 10-15 packs, and I contacted them. They send me a new one (and even send me a shock rebuild kit and some shock oil as my shocks also leaked a bit ; also, about half a year in, I've had the problem that my slipper pads melted, and they send me new slipper pads and holders). The new ESC has been working fine since. I also blew a motor bearing, but that was after almost 2 years of hard bashing on 3S only.
I can't tell about the Diff yokes, they worked fine on mine, but I might change them to aluminium soon (keep in mind, my 3S truck runs a TP Power 4030 motor and a MAX 8 now...it is a beast, but it goes through my 7200mah 3S Arrowmax pack in under 15 minutes).
Oh, and about that LVC, that sounds like you are using some weak packs. The only time they cut of early on mine was on my smallest, 4 year old, a ton of times used 3S Lipo. Never had those problems with any of my normal packs.
A problem that might ocur though are the ball bearings, as they are metal shielded. Also, the new Spectrum radio they supply is pretty trash.

But, all that said, the 3S line is, at least in my opinion, one of the best offerings in the Brushless RC world for around 300$ RTR.
 

MD6

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A 17.5 buggy will allow your to do both, race and ire just have fun, unless you want a larger scale. As I mentioned previously when you go to a race dirt, carpet, or parking lot 17.5 or stock buggy is the most popular. One of the keys to buying any r/c car is the availability of parts.
 

Arrmajunk

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@Arrmajunk
Well, the shocks are a known issue on the 3S line, but mine held up alright to be honest. They tend to leak from time to time, but there is a permanent relatively cheap fix for that.
On the Motor bearings...while that sucks, usually Arrma has a great warranty, I would just have contacted Horizon Hobby...my ESC died about after 10-15 packs, and I contacted them. They send me a new one (and even send me a shock rebuild kit and some shock oil as my shocks also leaked a bit ; also, about half a year in, I've had the problem that my slipper pads melted, and they send me new slipper pads and holders). The new ESC has been working fine since. I also blew a motor bearing, but that was after almost 2 years of hard bashing on 3S only.
I can't tell about the Diff yokes, they worked fine on mine, but I might change them to aluminium soon (keep in mind, my 3S truck runs a TP Power 4030 motor and a MAX 8 now...it is a beast, but it goes through my 7200mah 3S Arrowmax pack in under 15 minutes).
Oh, and about that LVC, that sounds like you are using some weak packs. The only time they cut of early on mine was on my smallest, 4 year old, a ton of times used 3S Lipo. Never had those problems with any of my normal packs.
A problem that might ocur though are the ball bearings, as they are metal shielded. Also, the new Spectrum radio they supply is pretty trash.

But, all that said, the 3S line is, at least in my opinion, one of the best offerings in the Brushless RC world for around 300$ RTR.

yes in part I’d agree it’s good value, I bought a Senton mega while the BLx were out of stock, I got around to building it into a full speck Blx, it took many diff housings to get the diff to spin nice, also leaky shocks on the mega needed rebuilding, when my BLx turned up it had the same issue of diff rub on the yoke, if you gave it a gentle push it would stop immediately, where’s the one I built a gentle push and rolled across the room .
so I had to the exact same grind out the thickness of the yoke where it rubbed . Every 3/4 turn it would catch. Luckily I was able to remedy the bearing with a cheaper one sourced from EBay. It’s been ok since. I did sell my blue mega but I put it back to the original hearing smaller pitch teeth. Sold it for £160 with a cheap Gool Rc combo ?.
Ii have two Losi one olderSCBE , and my recent Tenacity DB pro , the older one is good but it has imperial screws ?.
in Uk it’s metric. The new DB pro uses metric, it’s Standard all but the Servo with that spectrum ?.
my older Scbe is set up more for my style of driving so I intend to replicate that for the newer DB pro. .
 

Kendo

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yes in part I’d agree it’s good value, I bought a Senton mega while the BLx were out of stock, I got around to building it into a full speck Blx, it took many diff housings to get the diff to spin nice, also leaky shocks on the mega needed rebuilding, when my BLx turned up it had the same issue of diff rub on the yoke, if you gave it a gentle push it would stop immediately, where’s the one I built a gentle push and rolled across the room .
so I had to the exact same grind out the thickness of the yoke where it rubbed . Every 3/4 turn it would catch. Luckily I was able to remedy the bearing with a cheaper one sourced from EBay. It’s been ok since. I did sell my blue mega but I put it back to the original hearing smaller pitch teeth. Sold it for £160 with a cheap Gool Rc combo ?.
Ii have two Losi one olderSCBE , and my recent Tenacity DB pro , the older one is good but it has imperial screws ?.
in Uk it’s metric. The new DB pro uses metric, it’s Standard all but the Servo with that spectrum ?.
my older Scbe is set up more for my style of driving so I intend to replicate that for the newer DB pro. .
Have you had any issues with the Tenacity db pro diffs ? In forward & reverse it sounds fine but as soon as you use the brakes it sounds horrendous grinding noise had all 3 diffs in bits & no chips or movement but I would swear its coming from the middle.
Gutted as its a great car apart from this.
 

Arrmajunk

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Have you had any issues with the Tenacity db pro diffs ? In forward & reverse it sounds fine but as soon as you use the brakes it sounds horrendous grinding noise had all 3 diffs in bits & no chips or movement but I would swear its coming from the middle.
Gutted as its a great car apart from this.
No, I haven’t luckily , I have a Tenacity Sct too
There both really great to drive .
but the DB Pro feels a bit special to me I don’t use it too often .
 

Kendo

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I bought mine second hand but it wasn't that old & had only been out 3 times.
I've only had it out twice I do love how it drives but the grinding noise is driving me nuts not sure if the diff needs shimmed or what it is but I will find out.
Just getting back into the hobby after a few years away & finding my joy for it again.
 

Arrmajunk

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It’s strange , I don’t think it needs shimming?
I think you need look to see if the diff case is touching the Mount , or may be the bearing have had it ?
Hard to say without looking
 

Kendo

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It’s strange , I don’t think it needs shimming?
I think you need look to see if the diff case is touching the Mount , or may be the bearing have had it ?
Hard to say without looking
Yeah I've been working away so havent looked at it yet but will do this week its just irritating as its such a great car its definately made me want to get the DBXL, I took it out yesterday for a little blast & broke the steering horn :(
 

Tunedpipe

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I prefer buggies over short course because a buggy you have the option to truggify.
 

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