Winter build

[Snook Man]

I polished the main chassis deck today but it was still a little “Cloudy”,

I polished it a little more, and now the clouds are gone… (Just for you Rolex).

 

[hulkmaxx]

Oh shiny:OMG: nice man!

 

[Snook Man]

My fingers are a little tender from all the polishing I’ve been doing so I worked on 1 of the last issues on my too do list.
Traxxas 17mm splined wheel hex slop. Those of you who use them know what I’m talking about.
I’ve tried the brass inserts for bushings and a few other methods but over time (about 1 gallon) I still get slop between the wheel hex and stub axle.
I decided to take it up a step. I used T6 7075 ¼ inch rod and drilled and tapped it to 5mm to fit the stub axle threads.

After tapping it was cut to length to fit the stub axle threads and the diameter was turned down to match the stub axle. I trimmed the length to leave a few threads past the hex to install a 5mm thin nut once everything is assembled.

The hex was bored to the same size as the threaded bushing.

Assembled there is 0 slop; if I can get 3 gallons of run time before any slop develops I’ll be satisfied. If not, I’ll go a different route next time.

 

[hotrodrob]

Snook youve just made my dream come alive man, wanted to do this for a while now but dont have a press, hats off to ya, I think it will work just fine,....I noticed you swaped out all the ue lowers for the stockers?

 

[Snook Man]

I trashed 2 sets of UE wide track lowers last year on the track with my race Maxx, so my intentions with this build was to use the Stock lower arms. The UE lowers held up fine but were sandblasted and gouged pretty bad. I did bend one on a piece of rebar that was sticking up in the infield, but it was a solid hit that would have bent/broke most any arm.

I have lots of stock arms in my collection so I thought I would put them to use. I really don’t ever have much breakage issues with the stock arms unless I’m coerced into doing something stupid. As long as I’m smooth on the track they hold up fine and are cheap to replace.

 

[hulkmaxx]

Snook youve just made my dream come alive man, wanted to do this for a while now but dont have a press, hats off to ya, I think it will work just fine,....I noticed you swaped out all the ue lowers for the stockers?

+1 I'm with Hotrod on this one dang wish I had a way to get my hands on some good machining equip!

 

[Snook Man]

Finally finished polishing parts and started the final mock-up.
I’ll use this mock-up to make sure I don’t need to make any changes and to get a list of screws so I can send Tony an order before the final assembly.

Chassis: 1/8th inch 7075.

Front bulks (Rear GA), my towers, 7075.

Rear bulks (ACNCM), my towers, wing mount and bulk brace.

Ofna CD / 51T spur.

UE centers.

Ofna steering bell crank: Posts and inner barrels shortened to fit between chassis deck and top steering plate, double custom length drag links and a brass bushing for the servo/steering link. HPI Savage front toe links

Front and Rear lower braces, Modified from a New Era 4 point brace (T6-6061)

Custom upper steering plate:

Custom top brace, ties the rear and front bulks to the CD and battery/receiver box.

Front and rear upper & lower hinge pin capture bars.

More assembly later tonight.

 

[hulkmaxx]

Holy crap that's beautiful rig. I feel for your fingers after all that polishing man!

 

[hotrodrob]

can't wait to see the later pics!

 

[Nitrotrout]

Amazing project. Holy crap.

 

[Snook Man]

Thanks guys...

Mock-up is finished, hear are some more pics...

Wing (Revo mount/ProLine wing), arms (UE/stock lowers and my front uppers) carriers (Tekno) and cvd’s (TRX) installed:

Battery/Receiver box servo tray all assembled as a unit.
Servos – Savox 1256TG steering and throttle/brake. I’ve had good luck with them for the last few years. Custom made steering link to capture the bell crank steering arm.

Stone guards and pipe mount.

Fuel tank. Associated RC8T.

Engine, O.S.-.28XZ, Novarossi header, Dynamite pipe (I have many to choose from), Buku Komposite clutch, 13T vented bell.

RPM wear plates.

Fully dressed except for shoes.

With old shoes.

RTR except for fuel and body paint, not too bad considering all the aluminum.

Those silver super shock springs are just for pics. I still have a lot of shocks to rebuild for testing.

Word to the wise: I ran super shocks on my race maxx last year for 5 gallons without dust boots. They started leaking like a sieve around the 4 1/2 gallon mark. The inside bore of the shock body’s are also pretty scratched so run them booties if you want to keep them working smooth ( I knew better and still did it).

 

[hotrodrob]

Can't stop looking at the pics! Man she really turned out snook!....wow

 

[rbpwrd240]

Looking Awesome!!!

 

[goodgamer]

My jaw hit my desk, the funny thing is that it would have gone further if the desk wasn't there. Nice job man!

 

[Nitrotrout]

Word to the wise: I ran super shocks on my race maxx last year for 5 gallons without dust boots. They started leaking like a sieve around the 4 1/2 gallon mark.

That's good to know. I'm installing UE shocks on my Supermaxx project. :thumbup:

 

[scootr]

Wow and wow dude. 11/10..

 

[Snook Man]

Thanks again for the kind words guy’s, still lots to do before it see’s any track time.
Take a good look at it now, come mid April it will look like a shelf queen nevermore.

I wish some of you guys could bolt it together, fit is as good as any High $ kit I’ve ever assembled.
I’ve already got ideas for version 3.0…:whhooo:

 

[Snook Man]

Little update:

Finished (For now),
Simple paint, white with a few stickers. I figured I was going to beat it up pretty good so why spend too much time on a body since I’ll need another before the end of the season most likely.

I finally hit the track with it Wed/Thur to put it to the test. After warm up, 3rd lap I came up a little short on a big jump and hit the left front hard. Broke an upper and bent a lower pivot ball. I was using Ti pivot balls as a test and they have now been replaced with steel I knew better because I’ve had breakage issues with them in the past but just had to try the Ti balls 1 last time.

After a quick repair and 3 tanks on the track I felt the shock oil was too light. I was running 60wt/F 80wt/R and the rear was smacking the lip of the jumps on heavy power.
I swapped the oil wt to 80/F 100/R and ran 6 tanks through it Thur. Big improvement but it may still needs a little heavier oil in the rear.

All in all it handles better than I thought it would, with some tweaking of the diff and shock oil wt’s it has good potential to run with any Nitro truggy.


It’s also not a shelf queen anymore.

I’ll try and get some video of it running this weekend at the track with the other truggy’s.
I spanked a HPI Trophy Flux yesterday but the dude hasn’t learned throttle control yet so it wasn’t a fair comparison (but it was fun).

 

[hulkmaxx]

Came out really nice Snook! Love to see some track vids for sure man.

 

[HPI-Killer]

Looks good man nicely done. I love the lowered 'stealth' look of the truggy, look so mean and ready to attack!