chickenman242
Hardcore RCTalk User
Love the work as always
you really need to produce some of your parts for technically challenged persons
you really need to produce some of your parts for technically challenged persons
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WOW!!!
Now THAT'S what I would call reasonably acceptable.
Now THAT'S what I would call reasonably acceptable.
WOW, love the stance! Very nice work indeed.
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #65
Thanks again guys.
I put it to the test this weekend at the track (16 hours at the track and ¾ gallons of hard run time)
Other than a couple screws vibrating loose that needed a little more locktite I had no real mechanical issues.
I feel I was slightly over geared/powered for the loose track conditions and need to drop a tooth on the bell and use a smaller carb venturi when it’s that loose.
I tried a smaller carb venturi to tame it a little bit but then the low end snap wasn’t quite there for the 13/51 gearing and 1/10th scale diffs. I ordered a 12T Jammin bell but it’s not vented and I don’t want to run it with a Buku clutch so I’ll set it up with aluminum RC8 shoes I have for testing in loose conditions and see how it works.
With the amount of caster and camber gain I built into the front I’m really pleased with the steering and front grip I get in the corners. It’s a major improvement in handling over the HCR and JT chassis setups. Quite a few “E” rigs running 4S went home broken with their tails tucked trying to keep pace ( score 1 for the Nitro
).
There is 1 high speed jump at the track that everyone including me is having trouble with. I changed rear shock oil and ride height 3 times and still can’t keep it from coming off the lip without the rear kicking up at high speed. I’m going to try the VD pistons in the rear shocks and if that doesn’t work I’ll either have to slow down, or take a shovel to the jump and make it work. I think that 1 jump probably broke over $100 worth of parts on other rc’s in 1 weekend.
The only thing I need to work on for now is the front rpm bumper. The bumper sticks out farther then the front wheels and when I land a jump with the nose down too much the open design of the bumper will dig in and make a big divot on the track instead of sliding over it. I’m going to make a full skid out of ABS plastic that covers the bumper completely and tie it into the rpm wear plate. Hopefully it will skip over the clay and not dig into it (my caddy is getting tired of fixing my divots).
Chassis looks a little different now after approx 1 gallon run time.
I put it to the test this weekend at the track (16 hours at the track and ¾ gallons of hard run time)
Other than a couple screws vibrating loose that needed a little more locktite I had no real mechanical issues.
I feel I was slightly over geared/powered for the loose track conditions and need to drop a tooth on the bell and use a smaller carb venturi when it’s that loose.
I tried a smaller carb venturi to tame it a little bit but then the low end snap wasn’t quite there for the 13/51 gearing and 1/10th scale diffs. I ordered a 12T Jammin bell but it’s not vented and I don’t want to run it with a Buku clutch so I’ll set it up with aluminum RC8 shoes I have for testing in loose conditions and see how it works.
With the amount of caster and camber gain I built into the front I’m really pleased with the steering and front grip I get in the corners. It’s a major improvement in handling over the HCR and JT chassis setups. Quite a few “E” rigs running 4S went home broken with their tails tucked trying to keep pace ( score 1 for the Nitro
).There is 1 high speed jump at the track that everyone including me is having trouble with. I changed rear shock oil and ride height 3 times and still can’t keep it from coming off the lip without the rear kicking up at high speed. I’m going to try the VD pistons in the rear shocks and if that doesn’t work I’ll either have to slow down, or take a shovel to the jump and make it work. I think that 1 jump probably broke over $100 worth of parts on other rc’s in 1 weekend.
The only thing I need to work on for now is the front rpm bumper. The bumper sticks out farther then the front wheels and when I land a jump with the nose down too much the open design of the bumper will dig in and make a big divot on the track instead of sliding over it. I’m going to make a full skid out of ABS plastic that covers the bumper completely and tie it into the rpm wear plate. Hopefully it will skip over the clay and not dig into it (my caddy is getting tired of fixing my divots).
Chassis looks a little different now after approx 1 gallon run time.
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #66
Change of plans, I took a different approach to the bumper issue.
I deleted the bumper and used an old TMaxx RPM center skid plate which I heated in my toaster oven and formed it to fit the bumper mounts; I also shortened the mounts as much as I could and still fit the body. It wraps over the wear plate and screws into the bulks like a regular skid does. I’ll give it a try this weekend and if the angle isn’t enough to allow it to skip off the clay like I feel it should I will delete the rpm wear plate under it and form it to have more angle. Either way it sits about 3/8 inch closer to the chassis now than the bumper did which should help.
I deleted the bumper and used an old TMaxx RPM center skid plate which I heated in my toaster oven and formed it to fit the bumper mounts; I also shortened the mounts as much as I could and still fit the body. It wraps over the wear plate and screws into the bulks like a regular skid does. I’ll give it a try this weekend and if the angle isn’t enough to allow it to skip off the clay like I feel it should I will delete the rpm wear plate under it and form it to have more angle. Either way it sits about 3/8 inch closer to the chassis now than the bumper did which should help.
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #70
Toooooo much......
I haven’t sat down and determined what the rig cost itself, but with all the spare parts (multiples of everything) it’s well over a grand easy. I have enough parts that I shouldn’t need to buy anything but shoes and fuel for the entire season, maybe another body.
Considering I was going to buy a Losi 3.0 kit and then add everything needed it’s about the same amount except for the time I have in it making the parts.
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #71
Trying to figure out how to upload videos to PB from my phone.
Test 1
Test 2
http://s280.photobucket.com/user/Snook_Man/media/Mobile Uploads/IMG_1799_zpsda114412.mp4.html
Test 1
Test 2
http://s280.photobucket.com/user/Snook_Man/media/Mobile Uploads/IMG_1799_zpsda114412.mp4.html
Last edited:
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #73
Hmmmm. Works if I click the pic.
Ckeithnitro
RCTalk Talkaholic
Your vid worked for me Snook
Is that your personal track ??
Good vid
awesome build
Is that your personal track ??
Good vid
awesome build
