Why will my drill start not turn the engine over? Engine not tight or loose

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

I drilled the engine with a stick starter, Nothing happening!

 

[Caretaker109]

The rotostarter spins counter clockwise..

 

[cbaker65]

Also ,the o-way bearing could be gone ,or depending on what type it is ,could be in backwards!...

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Also ,the o-way bearing could be gone ,or depending on what type it is ,could be in backwards!...

Oh, but it was spinning and it just stopped. This problem was solved with different engines by tightening back plate, but I want to make sure that I don't have to do more, so could this also be the case???

 

[Gearhead056]

Probably your one way bearing. Happened to me a few times I would either replace it or soak it in nitro overnight and it'll usually work

 

[DXtreme1]

I agree with the one way bearing. I was going through numerous ones using the rotostart backplate and a drill. Realized that using a drill to start it was the issue since too much torque and not being able to control a consistent and right speed grenaded the one way bearing. Put back my ez Start on my TMaxx and I haven't had to replace the one way bearing since. The bearings also require maintenance. Need to be taken out time to time inspected cleaned and oiled with the correct viscosity oil recommended by the manufacturer. You can also do the ez Start/rotostart mod. Drilling a hole in the middle and the bottom and blasting the center hole with Nitro cleaner then the oil. The bottom hole serves as the drain hole.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Thanks, I will try it. But honestly what happenes is the car loses compression from time to time. I take apart the cooling head and clean the inside (wd40) even when it's already clean and suddenly it has compression again for the next three weeks worth of runs till compression is lost.

 

[DXtreme1]

When you say spray the inside with WD40 you mean the motor itself or the roto starter. I would only use after run oil on these motors if you are spraying the internals of the motor. At the end of every run I make sure there is no fuel left on the fuel lines and the motor as much as possible then I put a few drops of after run oil on the carb opening and glow plug opening and turn the motor by hand and leaving the piston resting in the bottom of its cycle. I pre-indexed my flywheel by marking it with red paint. When you say you're losing compression it sounds like it's time for a rebuild or a new motor. Has your motor lost pinch?

Thanks, I will try it. But honestly what happenes is the car loses compression from time to time. I take apart the cooling head and clean the inside (wd40) even when it's already clean and suddenly it has compression again for the next three weeks worth of runs till compression is lost.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

When you say spray the inside with WD40 you mean the motor itself or the roto starter. I would only use after run oil on these motors if you are spraying the internals of the motor. At the end of every run I make sure there is no fuel left on the fuel lines and the motor as much as possible then I put a few drops of after run oil on the carb opening and glow plug opening and turn the motor by hand and leaving the piston resting in the bottom of its cycle. I pre-indexed my flywheel by marking it with red paint. When you say you're losing compression it sounds like it's time for a rebuild or a new motor. Has your motor lost pinch?

Well, the motor loses the pinch almost completely and every time I take the cooling head off and put it back home it becomes hard again. But when I first bought this car, the engine was seized.

When you say spray the inside with WD40 you mean the motor itself or the roto starter. I would only use after run oil on these motors if you are spraying the internals of the motor. At the end of every run I make sure there is no fuel left on the fuel lines and the motor as much as possible then I put a few drops of after run oil on the carb opening and glow plug opening and turn the motor by hand and leaving the piston resting in the bottom of its cycle. I pre-indexed my flywheel by marking it with red paint. When you say you're losing compression it sounds like it's time for a rebuild or a new motor. Has your motor lost pinch?

Also I spray the inside of the motor then turn it over with the drill.

 

[cbaker65]

Well, the motor loses the pinch almost completely and every time I take the cooling head off and put it back home it becomes hard again. But when I first bought this car, the engine was seized.


Also I spray the inside of the motor then turn it over with the drill.

You may have a leak at the head an need to replace the head shims ,the reason your losing compression!

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

You may have a leak at the head an need to replace the head shims ,the reason your losing compression!

Ok I will try to buy a new one. But remember, every time I put it back on it's good for the next three or four weeks. Right now it's working fine but when it happens again I'll look into it.

 

[cbaker65]

Ok I will try to buy a new one. But remember, every time I put it back on it's good for the next three or four weeks. Right now it's working fine but when it happens again I'll look into it.

Sometimes head loosens up after awhile from metal flexing from heat ,so its good to retighten the head screws after awhile ,
try retightening when the engine is warmed up!..

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Sometimes head loosens up after awhile from metal flexing from heat ,so its good to retighten the head screws after awhile ,
try retightening when the engine is warmed up!..

Ok, I will deff do it

 

[Gearhead056]

Sometimes head loosens up after awhile from metal flexing from heat ,so its good to retighten the head screws after awhile ,
try retightening when the engine is warmed up!..

+1 for that. You could try a drop or two of locktight on the screws to prevent any loosening from vibration

 

[DXtreme1]

Don't forget to use a star pattern when installing the head screws. Also don't overtighten all at once. Do the first one snug and tighten the rest same amount until all are torqued down fully to ensure the head clamps in straight and even. This may be the reason the head screws eventually back out. If using Loctite I recommend using the blue stick or gel. They're easier and less messier to use.

 

[Certified Mike]

While you're checking out all these suggestions, very carefully look over your head to be sure you haven't got a crack in it. While I don't think I've ever heard of a nitro head crack, in 1:1 engines, a crack in an aluminum head is a VERY common issue and can act similarly to what you're experiencing. Be careful when you check... These cracks can be VERY difficult to spot. Also check the mounting surfaces for any deep scoring. A deep scratch where it mates to the shim will cause sudden decompression that can come and go as well.

 

[HueyC]

Hello, I have recently purchased rotostarter and purchased backplate for my HPI Nitro T3.0 engine. To my surprise, the shaft that came with Exceed 1/10 & 1/8 Nitro Electric starter kit which comes with VX backpate and the shaft doesn't fit the key hole on the HPI backplate (purchase separately online). I've found rotostart compatibility guide from HPI site, however it mention 'STD' starter shaft w/o any part number or size shaft diameter. I can't find 'STD' online for shaft as they all have P/N # association. Can anybody tell me whether 87116 STARTER SHAFT WITH O-RING is the shaft that I need. Maybe I am missing something but there are different sizes such as 225 mm and 285 mm even for 87116. I don't want to be surprise purchasing shaft that won't fit keyhole.

I have 2 HPI's right now planning on installing backplate (Mustang EVO 1/10 and HPI Truggy 1/8). This current HPI backplate is for Mustang and will soon get one for Truggy.

 

[Rolex]

Your thread title seems to suggest something different than your explanation.
When you run the drill, does it spin freely, lock up, or make a ratcheting sound?