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Who Knows Engines? UPDATE

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All I recognized was the dip stick handle.

Mechanic on the phone: "Miss, you need to add some oil to get that light to go off on your dash. Look for the yellow cap labeled 'OIL'."

Blond female car owner: "The only yellow cap I see says '7IO'!"
 
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Even though it's fuel injected, you still have a throttle body to control the air I believe. That's what part of a problem with my old 98 Mercury GM with a 4.6l was. They cleaned the throttle body and the idle control thing and it was purring like a kitten.
 
Follow the black convoluted tube coming from the air box all the way on up. Thats your throttle body. Pull the tube off, hose down some Q-tips with cleaner, and spiff'er up. After your done with the big part of the job, crack open the butterfly so you can clean behind its ears and around the edge as best as possible. Don't worry, you really can't it so long as you don't hit it with a hammer.

Webbage...not too shabby. Spoken like the son of a true shade tree mechanic, lol jk.

RC_Addict...spoken like a lose nut behind the wheel...lmao.
 
It's not a throttle body, it's fuel injected. Again, I'm old school, and when I first bought the car and looked under the hood, I thought it would be nuclear powered. All I recognized was the dip stick handle.

Fuel injection systems have throttle bodies too, but they only control the air input. :)

I know the feeling, When you walk from looking at a 1980s 2.25 engine in a Land Rover Series III to looking at a Supercharged Jaguar V8 in a Range Rover Sport it has a similar effect :)

All you gotta remember is regardless of how many wires there are they all work the same way in the end.

I'd say if your throttle linkage is sticking or the IAC valve is sticking you are getting a sudden jump in air input which is leaning the fuel way down momentarily causing it to cough and maybe even cut out - which explains a lot. You holding it on the pedal is probably holding it passed the point where the IAC is controlling anything and sticking, which means it's not doing it.

It'll really throw the ECM a curved ball too as they usually have throttle position sensor on the throttle body and jumping that big as gap in values might be confusing it for a second or two, add to that the sudden jump in air mass on the air mass meter and the fact the engine is on idle fueling and it'll certainly make it lose the plot for a second while it sorts itself out. It may even have some clever system that disregards sudden spikes in sensor values as errors until it stays at that level for a set time. It wouldn't surprise me.
 
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Fuel injection system ECM's aren't susceptible to lean out like a carbureted engine is. Its constantly keeping the engine as close to the perfect stoichiometric ratio, which is 14.7:1, or the pressure at sea level. This is where truly complete combustion occurs.
 
They also are not programmed to cope with a jump from no throttle to halfway down in a split second, like what happens when Rolex's pedal jumps. Normally, throttle pedals are sprung so that no matter how hard you hit them they give a smooth-ish curve on the throttle position sensor. Computer driven data systems sample on a set time base from each sensor, and compare the values, making an adjustment for every sample. If you jump the values too fast the ECM may take a fraction of a second to keep up and in that case you may be able to spook it. As I said above it may even exercise error correction, meaning it'd have a system of ignoring sudden spikes in sensor values unless they are present for n number of samples in a row, which would make the lag worse.

I'm going off what I know about computer data sampling and comparison based in how computer-connected sensors work. I don't know how well Ford's ECMs work or how sensitive they are, but they aren't magic, thus are also not infallible :)

And yeh my dad is a tree-shade mechanic of the old skool (like Rolex ;)). He's good at thinking things through logically though.
 
Webbage...not too shabby. Spoken like the son of a true shade tree mechanic, lol jk.

RC_Addict...spoken like a lose nut behind the wheel...lmao.

Squaat...spoken like a true douche bag.

No way will I be going outside to even look at it for a few days. The maintenance crew was here today to work on my A/C-heat pump which also failed on Friday. I'm sitting with a blanket covering the opening in the wall, and a little ceramic heater on the floor that they loaned me till they get to swap it out with a new unit. I'm cold inside, and it's just plain nasty freezing teens outside. The present unit is a Trane, barely 6 months old.
Just to be on the safe side, I won't be starting the Savage. I don't want to have a major problem with it. :hehe:
 
Yeh, what a crappy few days. I kinda feel sorry for ya Ralph, I could help you out by polishing your trucks if you like ;)

I can at least take solace in the fact that having to change the sway bar links on the front of my Honda last week wasn't actually that bad :P
 
Ralph Just start your savage and use the engine and pipe as a hand warmer..(or whatever warmer)Problems Fixed!
 
Webbage, I'll pick up the parts and sit inside polishing my trucks while you work on my car. When you're done, you can start it and run the heater till you get some feeling back in your hands and feet.

I just might try that hand warmer suggestion. You know me....ANY excuse at all to start it and smell that nitro exhaust.
 
What a ridiculous though! :hehe: If we did we lost it ages ago. Frankly I think I lost the plot years ago anyway, and most people that know me agree ;)

I wouldn't run your nitro too near that ceramic heater though, it might decide the nicely atomized oil residue in the exhaust smoke looks like a nice bit of extra burnin' fuel, and you could end up with a little more heat than you bargained on! ;)
 
Bummer. I just checked, and this thread is mine!
What the HELL is WRONG with you people? You've derailed a completely legit topic.
 
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