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Who Knows Engines? UPDATE

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but seriously it kinda sounds like the timing might have moved a little bit or something....but yeah it prolly was air in the fuel lines or even the fuel filter got partially plugged and letting it sit for a while then trying again wiggled the obstruction out of the way.
 
Took you a little bit...

You posted that while I was editing mine for a click and drag. You're good.:D

Just a word of advise when taking Viagra. Take a Flomax tablet immediately after the blue pill. That allows you to come and go as you please. :hehe:
 
LMFAO ROLEX, great advise lol..
 
We have a little inside joke down here on the border (my good buddy and his dad have an auto repair shop). When ever a Hispanic brings in a car and we try to tell him what is wrong they ALWAYS invariably reply, "Are you sure? Did you sheck the timing?"

Maybe that isn't as funny as we redneck cowboys think it is...
 
LMAO, its funny right here to me rc. lol...
 
Could be the Ign. Module going bad....I know with GM's when the Ign Module goes out you get no start at all....It sounds like a spark problem
 
"Are you sure? Did you sheck the timing?"
It's meaningless here, but from my New York days I got a good chuckle and some flashbacks from your spelling. Hey, sheck it out!

Could be the Ign. Module going bad....I know with GM's when the Ign Module goes out you get no start at all....It sounds like a spark problem

I had almost ALL GM cars, and the only other time I had a problem with an ignition module was on a Lincoln. It started suddenly, sputtered and spit, and couldn't get me home. An hour later it fired right up and ran like new. The next day I replaced the module.
That and this Thunder Bee are the only Fords I've ever owned, and up till tonight, it's been flawless.
 
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Not sure how cold it gets there or how you maintain your fuel level (half tank for a month at a time...), but could just be water with a combo of a dirty fuel filter. I just had that happen on my wife's car, which is my old car. 98 Grand Marquis, 4.6L.

She let it sit half empty for the better part of a month since she doesn't drive much and I was riding with her, which is rare. I normally drive, but didn't feel like it that day for some unknown reason. I make her nervous, so she takes off hard and brakes hard, which sloshed the tank up good. Within about 15 minutes of running, we get to where we are going and as she puts it in park, it sputters and dies. I ask her to try to restart, it sputters, dies. Beings it was Sunday night at 6pm we were pretty much screwed, so we walked 3/4 of a mile to a gas station, get a bottle of heet, throw it in, jiggle the car around a bit, it fires up and runs fine. Take it to a pep boys place and ask to replace the fuel filter. I asked them to do it carefully so I can see what's in it when they empty it. Full of rust and water. I then asked them to turn the key on without a filter and run the line into a bucket. It spit out more rust and more water. When it started spewing clean, they put on a new filter.

Been fine ever since.

What was extra annoying with this is that we had just had $1200 worth of work done to it, part of which was a tank pressure pump that was throwing an error code. Along with a servo in the heater that required them to dismantle the entire dash. We had just gotten the car back 2 days before this incident. Needless to say, I was fairly livid! Fortunately, it seemed to just be a weird coincidence of water and neglect that was fixed with a stomach ache and a new filter.
 
I'm leaning towards water. I'll dump some dry gas in it and stay local till I get it figured out. It's tough to deal with such a sudden problem after 9 years of total trust. Not knowing exactly what it is makes it a definite NO to taking it to a shop and let them change bulbs or radio stations till they find the right problem.
It has platinum plugs but you know they'd do a tune up first. That's not the problem.
 
My brother in-law has a thing for Pep Boys. No matter what I tell him he goes in three or four times a year for a "tune-up" at $185 a pop. I keep trying to explain to him that he is paying that much money for a set of plugs! We don't have to set the dwell on the distributer any longer--no points to replace. Then to try and explain that those damn Platinum plugs will last for 50,000 miles (mine have been in my truck 7 years now...) and his eyes glaze over. WOW!!!
 
Replace the cap and rotor. Sounds like carbon tracing in the cap is leading to misfire and/or stall out. Moisture in the cap could do that as well.

MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure

Ignition module could be the cause too but usually it craps out when the engine bay sees excessive temperatures. Voltage at the battery during idle should be roughly 13.5 to 15.5 volts, any higher or lower will cause the computer to recieve the incorrect voltage, leading to incorrect measurements. Under cranking, voltage should NOT drop below 10.2 volts, if it does then the battery should be replaced. Check your alternator voltage and battery voltage accordingly. Check the belt, if it is glazed, replace it. Belt tension should be 90-110 pounds, check by twisting the straightest portion of belt. If you can twist it further than 90 degrees from center over a length of 6 inches or more, then the tensioner is worn. Also, check the wires under the raidator plastic cowling. A cluster of wires leading to the computer typically reside under this cowl and it is possible that one or more of the wires is rubbed through or even chewed through by an animal. This WILL cause the problem of sputtering and dying, especially if you should acclerate around a turn or hit a bump.

Hope this helps out. If you need more info, PM me.

Justin
the resident ASE Master Tech.
 
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