• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Whatcha Printing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Is there anything more satisfying than perfect breakaways?
PXL_20260114_031602009.webp
 
been loving this glow filament lol, some colors work better than others, printed a few sets of wheels for the trx4m trucks, need to fiddle with fitment a little but they LOOK super cool, i can't wait to get em mounted, they are smooth, so figuring the bronco with plastic drift tires on linoleum kitched floor should look pretty cool,
one set is regular orange pla for the wheels, the tires print spereately gotta combine em with a mallet they are a really snug fit.
so far 2 of the 4 colors work great, 1 not at all and 1 is hit or miss. it prints really well other than i have to occasionally jump start the feed at the very begining for some reason, like 80% of the prints i got a feed error, i just gave it a slight push and bob's your uncle perfect print each time. gets an 8/10 from me. i will be ordering more, but it could be a little better.

20260116_143847.webp


20260116_143901.webp


20260116_143842.webp


20260116_143835.webp


20260116_141623.webp


20260116_141615_001.webp


20260116_141618.webp


20260116_141549.webp


20260116_141512.webp
 
Still amazed at the feature size I can get wit a 0.2mm nozzle.

View attachment 263437
View attachment 263438
i forget about nozzle sizes lol i have 3 different sizes think I've only used anything other than the 4 once,
looks great!

edit. i just looked.... I've been printing on the wrong plate for the past 3-4 months lol, forgot i swapped to the textured but settings are for smooth plate.... wonder why i have had so many failed prints......
your post made me wonder if id changed my settings back... omylanta of course i didnt lol good times
 
i forget about nozzle sizes lol i have 3 different sizes think I've only used anything other than the 4 once,
looks great!
Same, I used nothing but the 0.4mm for a year. Only just recently tried the 0.2, and it's opened up a whole world of tiny RC parts for me 😅
 
If it were me, I'd get a small printer and keep it setup with a .2. Swapping nozzles is one of the things requiring the most work on a printer. Especially if you have some filament stuck anywhere. Then 9 times out of 10 you get a screw wanting to fight ya. Then you gotta do a PID tune, recalibrate your bed, check your extrusion modifier, etc. F it. Just buy a new printer. It's not worth the hassle! 🤪
 
If it were me, I'd get a small printer and keep it setup with a .2. Swapping nozzles is one of the things requiring the most work on a printer. Especially if you have some filament stuck anywhere. Then 9 times out of 10 you get a screw wanting to fight ya. Then you gotta do a PID tune, recalibrate your bed, check your extrusion modifier, etc. F it. Just buy a new printer. It's not worth the hassle! 🤪
depends on the printer. super easy on mine
 
How so? I only have old Creality printers, so the new fancy stuff I have no experience with.
Bambu Labs makes it easy. Physically swapping the nozzle is two screws and 3 cables. Re-calibration for bed level you can do as part of the first print. Extrusion modifiers are handled by the default filament profiles in the slicer. Takes about 60 seconds of labor.

You could run a whole new filament flow calibration print, but you'd do that once and store the profile. You could also do a full printer motion calibration after a nozzle swap, but that's a couple taps on the touch screen and the machine does it all for you.
 
If it were me, I'd get a small printer and keep it setup with a .2. Swapping nozzles is one of the things requiring the most work on a printer. Especially if you have some filament stuck anywhere. Then 9 times out of 10 you get a screw wanting to fight ya. Then you gotta do a PID tune, recalibrate your bed, check your extrusion modifier, etc. F it. Just buy a new printer. It's not worth the hassle! 🤪
On my Flashforge I push two buttons and the nozzle pulls right out. Push the new one in until it clicks in place, insert filament and go. I have a .2 that will be here tomorrow hopefully. I have been using a .4 for almost a year, I have a .6 but I've never used it.
 
So I looked into it and sure enough, the Bambu machines don't even allow you to tune the PID settings. The Flashforge though, depends on which one you have I guess 🤔
 
The Adventurer 5M Pro does need tuning afterwards though, especially if changing nozzle diameters, or switching from say brass to steel nozzles. If going to the same size nozzle and same material, most people seem to think the PID settings should be OK, but it's simple to do, so I would do a tune any time I changed anything.

The extrusuon modifier on the FF I guess is done in the slicer software instead of setting E-sreps in the firmware. Technically, any time you put a new roll of filament on, or change nozzles, it should be checked.
 
Added this filament dryer/feeder to my setup. Feeds the left nozzle. Requires manual changes but it was a good price and can dry abs/PC/etc. that the AMS can't quite get high enough temps for. Also has two chambers for different filaments. Got 6 pla drying in the AMS and one chamber plus two rolls of petg in the other chamber.

PXL_20260120_183152439.MP.webp
PXL_20260120_183200314.webp
 
The Adventurer 5M Pro does need tuning afterwards though, especially if changing nozzle diameters, or switching from say brass to steel nozzles. If going to the same size nozzle and same material, most people seem to think the PID settings should be OK, but it's simple to do, so I would do a tune any time I changed anything.

The extrusuon modifier on the FF I guess is done in the slicer software instead of setting E-sreps in the firmware. Technically, any time you put a new roll of filament on, or change nozzles, it should be checked.
You should always tune afterwards for sure if it's your first nozzle swap. But then, in my slicer I just save that as a profile. Then so long as I"m using the exact same nozzle and filamnet, i just swap to that nozzle, load that profile, and I'm off to the races.
 
You should always tune afterwards for sure if it's your first nozzle swap. But then, in my slicer I just save that as a profile. Then so long as I"m using the exact same nozzle and filamnet, i just swap to that nozzle, load that profile, and I'm off to the races.
Oh I gotcha. That makes sense. I didn't even consider that, since you're swapping an assembly.
 
Back
Top