What would make an engine overheat? or get to hot?

[aaron030886]

Because yesterday I was in the last stage of the break in process, and it started kinda smoking from the engine, so I stopped it, and checked the temp and it was at 415. I thought I was at the point of break in where you could give it full throttle? Like the 5th tank of fuel of break in or something. But any how, it did it another day too, and it still starts, so it doesn't damage anything, it just gets to hot. What causes that? I mean, if that's the case every time I drive it to fast, it gets to hot and I have to turn it off or it will overheat, lol then heck, that's no fun! It shouldn't get that hot, should it? I guess my main question is, what causes it to get that hot? And what can I do so that it doesn't get that hot anymore?

Thanks!

 

[griemar]

Many possibilities there. Mix is set too lean, leak somewhere in the system or maybe even poor ventilation. Did it do this before now, meaning any other time during break in? 400+ degrees is WAY too hot and I'm actually surprised it didn't damage the mill in any way.

read this thread to check your tuning and make sure your not too lean. https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

 

[aaron030886]

Well I didn't have the temp gauge with me the day before yesterday breaking it in, and it started smoking a little from the engine, so it turned it off, cause I guess I was driving it too fast during the break in, even though I wasn't going even full throttle. But I wasn't goosing it either the day before, I was just medium speeding it, I guess I would call it, then letting it coast for a little. And that made the engine get too hot, and start smoking a little and shut off by its self. So yeah, I'm not sure, I'm new to this, and I'm still trying to learn the settings, I've read the instructions, and a manual, but that's really about it on leaning and riching.

 

[griemar]

Well if you changed any of the needle settings, then reset them back to factory and try running it around for a few mins like that and temp. If your temps are still high (anything over 270), then shut down and start searching for leaks anywhere in the fuel system and on the mill. Make sure all the bolts and screws are tight on the mill and well sealed. Let us know what happens.

 

[aaron030886]

Well I have noticed that the body of the truck, near the backside is pretty dirty. Covered in I guess oils and fuel from running it, is that ok? And what's the mill?

Well if you changed any of the needle settings, then reset them back to factory and try running it around for a few mins like that and temp. If your temps are still high (anything over 270), then shut down and start searching for leaks anywhere in the fuel system and on the mill. Make sure all the bolts and screws are tight on the mill and well sealed. Let us know what happens.

Good advice on resetting the needles back to factory, that's a good idea! Even though I think there pretty close to it, it wouldn't hurt to put them back I suppose.

 

[griemar]

Well I have noticed that the body of the truck, near the backside is pretty dirty. Covered in I guess oils and fuel from running it, is that ok? And what's the mill?

The oils and fuel on the body are normal. We all get that from the exhaust unless you find a way to redirect it. The "mill" is the engine. Guess I should have used that term first. Anytime you see mill mentioned here on the forum, that's what we're talking about.

 

[frickenjoey]

Yeah Himoto I would say 415 is "a bit" warmer than it should be.....by around 120 deg. Wow that is toasty. I would cut some vent holes on the windshield to get some air flow thorough there and give the high speed needle a good half turn out to richen it back up. Try it from there.

 

[aaron030886]

Yeah Himoto I would say 415 is "a bit" warmer than it should be.....by around 120 deg. Wow that is toasty. I would cut some vent holes on the windshield to get some air flow thorough there and give the high speed needle a good half turn out to richen it back up. Try it from there.

Yeah, well this was just the break in with out the shell on, but I guess it wouldn't hurt when I do put the shell back on. Thanks!

The oils and fuel on the body are normal. We all get that from the exhaust unless you find a way to redirect it. The "mill" is the engine. Guess I should have used that term first. Anytime you see mill mentioned here on the forum, that's what we're talking about.

Ok, cool.

 

[GrudgE]

Well I have noticed that the body of the truck, near the backside is pretty dirty. Covered in I guess oils and fuel from running it, is that ok? And what's the mill?



Good advice on resetting the needles back to factory, that's a good idea! Even though I think there pretty close to it, it wouldn't hurt to put them back I suppose.

The Mill is a common term used for the engine, During break in you shouldn't have changed any carb settings it should have been left at stock until the break in was completed. You may have just shortened your engines life.

 

[ajames942]

If its a brand new motor, it shoudlnt have any leaks just richen it way up

 

[aaron030886]

Well if you changed any of the needle settings, then reset them back to factory and try running it around for a few mins like that and temp. If your temps are still high (anything over 270), then shut down and start searching for leaks anywhere in the fuel system and on the mill. Make sure all the bolts and screws are tight on the mill and well sealed. Let us know what happens.

Well I put the needle settings back to factory, and tried starting it a few times, and I noticed the pull cord not going down into the pull start all the way. Like maybe a half inch was still out, and with a little tug, it would go all the way back in. But after pulling it maybe 5 or 6 times, the cord broke..:\ So I'm ordering a new pull start tomorrow.

 

[griemar]

Well I put the needle settings back to factory, and tried starting it a few times, and I noticed the pull cord not going down into the pull start all the way. Like maybe a half inch was still out, and with a little tug, it would go all the way back in. But after pulling it maybe 5 or 6 times, the cord broke..: So I'm ordering a new pull start tomorrow.

Par for the course. I've had my Savage now about 2 weeks or so and have gone through 3 pull starts. Yes I said THREE. At least the owner at the LHS has agreed to purchase a few of the ones i need and take out the OWB's and sell just the pull start for $17 each. If purchased with the OWB their $42, can we say ouch! Might want to look into either a bump start or roto-start if you dont want to deal with the pull start.

 

[aaron030886]

Par for the course. I've had my Savage now about 2 weeks or so and have gone through 3 pull starts. Yes I said THREE. At least the owner at the LHS has agreed to purchase a few of the ones i need and take out the OWB's and sell just the pull start for $17 each. If purchased with the OWB their $42, can we say ouch! Might want to look into either a bump start or roto-start if you dont want to deal with the pull start.

Yeah I've had my Himoto for about 2 weeks as well, just got it running the end of last week. Funny though you actually say that about going through so many pull starts, cause today my dad was like, "those pull starts must break often, for them to be so cheap. Considering mine is only $20. So I guess he's right! lol People must go through a lot of them. I've thought about getting the "E-Power Starter." Is that the same thing as what your talking about with the roto-start and bump start?

 

[griemar]

Yeah I've had my Himoto for about 2 weeks as well, just got it running the end of last week. Funny though you actually say that about going through so many pull starts, cause today my dad was like, "those pull starts must break often, for them to be so cheap. Considering mine is only $20. So I guess he's right! lol People must go through a lot of them. I've thought about getting the "E-Power Starter." Is that the same thing as what your talking about with the roto-start and bump start?

I'm not 100% familiar with how your car is set up, but there are 2 alternative ways to start a nitro car besides pull start. A bump start is a battery powered box that a rubber wheel in it. You place your car on top of it and as you push down, it activates the rubber wheel and pushes against the fly wheel on the car. This turns the engine and starts it. A roto-start gets screwed onto the engine just like your pull start but you use a drill or something similar to spin the engine. If your flywheel comes through a small slot in the chassis, then you can use a bump start, if not, then you will have to find what roto-start fits your engine and setup.

 

[frickenjoey]

Hey Himoto.... I have some maybe good news for you. If you have the VTX .18 engine then the OS .18 rotostart back plate should fit for you. I would suggest that over the bump start. IMO anyway....I am not a huge fan of start boxes. But I am a basher, not racer.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHPR7&P=M

 

[aaron030886]

Hey Himoto.... I have some maybe good news for you. If you have the VTX .18 engine then the OS .18 rotostart back plate should fit for you. I would suggest that over the bump start. IMO anyway....I am not a huge fan of start boxes. But I am a basher, not racer.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHPR7&P=M

I have a Himoto Mega P MXT-2S 18 cxp engine. Not sure if that's the same as what your talking about. How much do those run? "the rotostart box plate" But this E-Power Starter looks like this, I wouldn't even know where to put the thing? Anyone know anything about these?

 

[MrClean]

The black square piece replaces your pull start. Notice that the small opening will allow the end of the rod to fit in, you pull the trigger on the starter and with the use of your glow-plug igniter, it will start the engine.

 

[aaron030886]

Are they any good?

 

[MrClean]

Not sure about their durability, but it can easier than a pull-start for some people, especially someone new to nitro engines.

 

[aaron030886]

Thanks!