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hamz9561
Proud Short Bus Rider
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Military Veteran
I would say a Traxxas eRevo Brushless. Plenty of power and speed. It will work with your current batteries and charger, although you'll need two of them.
What are you looking to spend? 4wd or 2wd? I'm assuming you want electric.
tntpoof
Whats Up Doc?
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Id look at the Armma brand They have a 2s-3s granite senton... they are 1/10 scale...
DakRatFink
RCTalk Rookie
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They have the Granite, The Senton and the Big Rock Crew Cab which is like a granite with a slightly longer wheelbase. . The Senton is a short course truck, so kind of like the 4X4 slash, the Granite is like the 4x4 Stampede. They all have some pretty good features .
Another option is the new Traxxas Maxx. It is a smaller baby brother of the X Maxx. A little higher price than the ARRMA trucks, but a little lower than the E Revo 2.0.
If you want scale realism, Axial just re launched the scale replica of Grave Digger in ready to run or rolling chassis kit form .
like someone said above. It is a matter
Of what you want to do.
Zippy
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another thing-i want it to be good stock, however, i will do some minor upgrades. like motor, esc, batteries, tires, MAYBE a different servo, but i will most likely keep the gears the same. i am not an expert on rc cars, however, i am reasonably handy.
Well, then you could get an ERBEv2 (traxxas revo vxl), with a few upgrades, it holds up pretty well. Alloy rear chassis brace, rear shock limiters and $50-$80 for replacing the stock servos with something better as they don't live very long.
Or any of the arrma 6S lineup with a M2C chassis and alloy chassis braces. Once the diffs are properly shimmed, and with the upgraded 7075 for $120+50 for braces, they hold up pretty well. That would land you around the $650 mark. If you don't intend on doing a lot of big air jumps, just alloy chassis braces and properly shimming the diffs is all that's really needed. Well, that and the servo will likely die, so plan for that.
Or any of the arrma 6S lineup with a M2C chassis and alloy chassis braces. Once the diffs are properly shimmed, and with the upgraded 7075 for $120+50 for braces, they hold up pretty well. That would land you around the $650 mark. If you don't intend on doing a lot of big air jumps, just alloy chassis braces and properly shimming the diffs is all that's really needed. Well, that and the servo will likely die, so plan for that.
Forgot to mention the tekno mt410. Similar size to the outcast 6s, but stronger parts for the majority of it. I think it's a kit though, so you have to build it and add your own electronics.
For a good general basher, the kraton seems to be preferred. I went with the outcast because the shorter chassis fits in my hauler bag better and I tend to prefer a truck that is a bit more unpredictable. The talion is also a good basher, but it's a bit more low slung and intended for more high speed running.
If you go with the talion or kraton, I'd highly suggest the M2C chassis out of the gate as the extended length chassis is more prone to bending in the rear, even with chassis braces. My outcast held up pretty well until I really started airing it out, then I got the M2C for it.
You can find a lot of info about all the arrmas at arrmaforum.com. It's a sister site to this one.
For a good general basher, the kraton seems to be preferred. I went with the outcast because the shorter chassis fits in my hauler bag better and I tend to prefer a truck that is a bit more unpredictable. The talion is also a good basher, but it's a bit more low slung and intended for more high speed running.
If you go with the talion or kraton, I'd highly suggest the M2C chassis out of the gate as the extended length chassis is more prone to bending in the rear, even with chassis braces. My outcast held up pretty well until I really started airing it out, then I got the M2C for it.
You can find a lot of info about all the arrmas at arrmaforum.com. It's a sister site to this one.
Zippy
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yep, i have an account on arrma forum. i dont plan to do any major bashing, just on my street, bmx track, that kinda thing. i dont want a kit for multiple reasons, one of them being that my cats seem to have a fetish for carrying of crucial parts in their mouths.
DakRatFink
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I think for what you want I’d be looking at Either Kraton or ERevo.
also. I get what you mean about the cat. Mine is the destroyer of loose parts.
If it’s not bolted down or in a magnetic parts tray, it’s gone .
DakRatFink
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I have the mini E revo. I know it’s similar , but I have no experience with the full size e revo. I know some weak spots on the mini is the shocks are soft and the rear diffs require shimming .
Leaking shocks are also a known weak spot on the 3 and 4s Arrma trucks. But the 6s models have aluminum shocks.
Leaking shocks are also a known weak spot on the 3 and 4s Arrma trucks. But the 6s models have aluminum shocks.
I had the v1 and now have converted it to the v2 using a roller. I never ran the 2.0 electronics. Aside from the upgrades I suggested, the truck is pretty solid mechanically. I jump mine just as high/far/hard as my outcast and it will hold it's own, actually does better in some regards (diffs).
I've put a max6/blx2050kv system in it, so now it and my outcast have the same electronics (aside from the servo).
Other than breaking a rod end once in a while, it's holding up well. The last damage I had was from hitting a tree. It was cold and it snapped a tierod on the front. That was near the end of the 2nd or 3rd set of packs. 3 minutes into the same bash session with my outcast was ended with a busted rear RPM arm or rear hinge pin retainer, can't recall which.
Really, it was too cold for as stupid as I was being with either truck. It was supposed to get up to 50F, but the highest it got was around 38F.
The outcast is easier to work on. The same would be said for the Kraton.
I've put a max6/blx2050kv system in it, so now it and my outcast have the same electronics (aside from the servo).
Other than breaking a rod end once in a while, it's holding up well. The last damage I had was from hitting a tree. It was cold and it snapped a tierod on the front. That was near the end of the 2nd or 3rd set of packs. 3 minutes into the same bash session with my outcast was ended with a busted rear RPM arm or rear hinge pin retainer, can't recall which.
Really, it was too cold for as stupid as I was being with either truck. It was supposed to get up to 50F, but the highest it got was around 38F.
The outcast is easier to work on. The same would be said for the Kraton.
Zippy
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so which would you reccomend?
If I couldn't have both the ERBEv2 and Outcast 6S, I'd lean towards the outcast 6s. It's easier to wrench on in general and most of it's shortcomings can be fixed with an aftermarket part.
Just know that if your bash hard (big jumps, occasional lawn dart landings), it will likely double in price over time with upgrades to keep it going. If you do intend on airing it out, plan on getting the M2C 7075 chassis and chassis braces early on to avoid a taco'd chassis ending your bash day. At the very least, get alloy chassis braces out of the gate.
If you think you would like something a bit less twitchy in the air and easier to run at WOT, then you may want to look at the Kraton instead. It has very similar geometry to the outcast, but it's longer in the rear which makes it handle speed and jumps with a bit more grace.
Just know that if your bash hard (big jumps, occasional lawn dart landings), it will likely double in price over time with upgrades to keep it going. If you do intend on airing it out, plan on getting the M2C 7075 chassis and chassis braces early on to avoid a taco'd chassis ending your bash day. At the very least, get alloy chassis braces out of the gate.
If you think you would like something a bit less twitchy in the air and easier to run at WOT, then you may want to look at the Kraton instead. It has very similar geometry to the outcast, but it's longer in the rear which makes it handle speed and jumps with a bit more grace.
