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what is the best way to stop...

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Those (so called) left over parts are in actuality "spare parts". Don't mistake them for ones that matter too much. And about that grill, I usually just throw a can of gas on the friggin cow and light it up.
 
It's all in judging how much gas to use. Lamb is like two quarts, when the first one flames out ya put the second on. Big beef takes a couple of doses of about 3/4 galons at a time. It's pretty much done when they go hooves up.
 
Lol, I was wondering why you guy were talking about cooking animals on a gas grill then I saw the line about leftover parts. Funny as hell. The less parts the less that can go wrong though ;)
 
A spare bag of parts is okay if you know where they went and if you needed them. (Ask me about a Nissan 200SX rebuild sometime.)

I don't race my Maxx, I just bash with it. I always have that nice trail of blue smoke blowing from the exhaust telling me I'm running just a little on the rich side. It's leaned enough to pull quick acceleration and if I tightened down the slipper clutch I'm pretty sure it could wheelie. (I can't find the wheelie posts on this site, what's up?)

With that, my engine is usually stopped because it dies after a rollover where I'm too far away. Or, when it's time to pack up and I see the tank running low I run slow local circles until it runs out of gas.

Allow me to shift focus to the semi-related topic of restarting an engine, Castrol.

A Traxxas TRX 2.5 seems difficult to restart when it dies after it's been warmed up. I had a nice sports bottle of ice water with me today while bashing at the local park. When she died after a distant rollover I took an ice cube from the bottle and pressed it all around the heat sink. (It made quite a nice ice sculpture.) The engine fired up immediately and I was back in business.

What do you nitroheads think about that?

:cool: <=== awaiting the flames....
 
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Just dont pour ice water on it immediately. I dont think a cube will warp anything, but I'm pretty certain a tall glass will cause all kinds of warpage and whatnot.

Are you using a temp gun? If so, what are your temps during run time?

One of the first symptoms that it is time for a rebuild is the tough restart when hot..... heheheh grrrrrrrrrrr! Grumble!

Anyhow, you could be too lean on the LSN and not getting enough fuel when restarting HOT. Have you dont the pinch test on the fuel line?
 
I've pinched the line. plug the exhaust tip, and stopped the flywheel. I've only pinched the fuel line once and didn't like the way it starves the engine for fuel. Now, I just stop the flywheel with my thumb. Stops it immediately. Just make sure if you plug the exhaust tip, use a rag, because the exhaust is really hot.
 
This is one very very very old thread. error401 musta been really board to have been reading through old threads. :hehe:

I stop the flywheel too. This is the best method. I don't know where I read it, but someone made an excellent argument about why it's the best way.

1.) let your nitro idle.
2.) grab a screw driver.
3.) press screwdriver handel on the flywheel until the engine stops.

it doesn't flood your engine. it doesn't lean the engine out. it fires up the next time real easy too.
 
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Originally posted by mcvickj
I just use my thumb to plug the air filter to stop my RS4. That is what HPI suggest in the manual.

Killing the engine using your thumb and the flywheel. That sounds like that would hurt. How quickly does that shut the veichle off?

-JR
Plug the air filter??? That's a new one on me. I've heard to pinch the fuel line or to plug the exhaust but never to plug the air filter.
 
well when you have an HPI RS4 3 and the airfilter is the size of a penny and your thump fits over the one hole it works great.
 
I pinch my fuel lines. I have never had a problem. I thought that was common practice. I have to admit I think I learned that over at the Traxxas forum. You guys got me really thinking about it now. I guess if I haven't had any problems then I'll chalk it up to there is more than one way to skin a cat. Anyone else out there pinching the fuel line to stop the engine? Any issues from it directly?
 
I guess I have big weak fingers because I always found it a pain in the butt to stop the engine using the fuel line pinch, at least in comparison to plugging the exhaust. I mean put your finger over the stinger on the exhaust and it's dead in less than a second. Seems easier than pinching the fuel line and waiting a few seconds.
 
Originally posted by RobH
This is one very very very old thread. error401 musta been really board to have been reading through old threads. :hehe:

Honest to God, Rob, this thread was at the top of the list when I first posted to it. I didn't even look at the last post date. Though it seems like everyone has gotten back into the debate, I guess it's ok.

When I used to fly helis, it was 1) impossible to put your finger over the intake, 2) really painful to put your finger over the tip, and 3) very dangerous to try and stop the flywheel. This left only 3 options. First, pinch the fuel line (and there is a couple of gadgets that you put on the fuel line to do this). Second, unhook the fuel line behind the last filter (side away from the engine). And third, cut the throttle trim on the transmitter, which cluses both the fuel intake and the carb opening (and the air supply).

Two the the three methods use the "starve for fuel" method, while the third is a combo of air and fuel (mostly air). Also, the manufacturer's of the engines (OS) and other heli flyers recommended the pinch method for shutting down for the end of the day.

Any other info I have has already been stated, so e-nuf from me on this.....

:spam
 
This thread was resurrected by the newest member of the SPAM club, NITRO13. He went necropheliac on the site like white goes on rice...like all over.

After the mods went through and dumped the latest round of spam, the threads were still showing as current with new postings. That is why some of these oldies are making the rounds again.
 
I didn't notice the cobwebs either until Rob mentioned it. But now I don't feel bad about changing the subject. So there.

Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
Are you using a temp gun? If so, what are your temps during run time?

One of the first symptoms that it is time for a rebuild is the tough restart when hot..... heheheh grrrrrrrrrrr! Grumble!

Anyhow, you could be too lean on the LSN and not getting enough fuel when restarting HOT. Have you dont the pinch test on the fuel line?

I bought one of those rat-shack temp guns and it seems to hover around 250 when it's warm. I've been pretty lax about tuning it. I know it's on the rich side, especially on these warm days, and the truck runs great, just hard to restart when hot. The LSN is rich, too. Pinch test runs for a good five seconds. I did religiously follow Traxxas' break-in procedure.

I think I want one of those Sirio's like Humboldt got.
 
Originally posted by wdavidhicks
I bought one of those rat-shack temp guns and it seems to hover around 250 when it's warm. I've been pretty lax about tuning it. I know it's on the rich side, especially on these warm days, and the truck runs great, just hard to restart when hot. The LSN is rich, too. Pinch test runs for a good five seconds. I did religiously follow Traxxas' break-in procedure.

I think I want one of those Sirio's like Humboldt got.


Chris is right. I had a OS .15 that would startup fine and run until hot, then it wouldn't start until it was cool. I thought I had an air leak in the backplate or carb, but it turned out the piston and sleeve were worn.
 
that's weird. what does it do exactly when it gets too hot? like you pump the fuel up to the carb and then when you stop pumping, the fuel just spills back into the tank?

My son's duratrash does exactly that when it gets hot. The piston and sleeve are used and I have no clue how many gallons. I always though the carb was donig it...
 
you know how I turn mine off? I turn the switch to off because all I play with is my Micro and I love it.:D
 
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