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What hop ups to get? all aluminum parts?

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snakemau

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Hey I want to make my savage X unbreakable and was wondering on what should I upgrade, like aluminum bumpers, steering blocks, shock mount towers, control arms, c-hubs, etc? Is it worth it?
Want also some bigger tires maybe like the Big Joe's. Any suggestions/comments?
 
All I can say about this is making your savage all alum. will only make it unbreakable for the first few jumps, then things will start bending (because there is NO give in anything) then you just have a savage that is loose, bent up and looks/runs/drives like crap. I honestly have not noticed much on my truck that would be made stronger/better by replacing with alum. Upper A-arms are the only thing that rip on me, and maybe bumper supports, but again I don't know that I would want to go making those parts solid because something else will just break further in.
Your call. It looks awesome but i'm not sure you'll get what you want. my .02
 
Hhhmmm that is true. Well then if that is the case then I should look for other type of hop us such as changing the stock shocks for integy piggybacks? and maybe a metal tank protection or tires/wheels? any other viable upgrade? I have stock radio but I'm waiting on a DX3S to arrive so I can set the telemetry receiver on the Savage X...maybe a better servo?
 
Agree with Boody's perspective.
Due to the nature of the hobby the only way one of these would be unbreakable is to not drive them.
The Savage is a heavy truck to begin with - 12 to 13 pounds or thereabouts.
I seem to recall someone saying that their tricked out (all aluminum) Savage weighed more than 19 pounds. That's a significant (50%) increase in weight - which just changes what breaks or how it breaks.

Having said that, I use aluminum clutch shoes and have installed aluminum differentials on one truck since the plastic ones were destroyed. Some of the aluminum shock towers are nice too as they give you more tuning options.
 
RPM arms (although, most don't have issues with stock), lunsford turnbuckles to allow for easier adjustment of toe-in, HPI big bore shocks look to be wicked good, but running 8 stockers with 40 weight should get the job done.

Really the only weaknesses on the savage are the diffs, center axles and slipper.

Gear too tall and the slipper likes to slip and glaze up on you, which means you may gear a bit lower than you'd like and have less top speed. I think I'm running 15/49 at the moment with an LRP28S3 in it. The engine could pull more gear, but not without locking the slipper down. I tried 15/47 and within a tank, the slipper was a slipping on take off even when it was barely backed off 1/8th turn. I may be running 16/49... but can't recall.

The diffs for the following reasons had issues with blowing out. My guess is partially to blame the slipper since most lock it down due to slippage. That combined with cast gears vs CNC'd and plastic spider cup adds up to weak diffs. Also, the case the diff was in would flex. Most of that was fixed on the X/XL by redesigning the case, milling the gears and adding an alloy cup.

On my savage, I'm running X/XL diffs with alloy diff cases to keep the gearlash perfect all the time. My only real remaining issues are diff input cup wear on the centers and the slipper thing. Neither of which stop me from beating the snot out of it every single chance I run it. ;)
 
What about adding the reverse module? I got my self climbing trees a few times cause no reverse! And bigger tires or better tires? It seems I'm having issues making my Savage turn in grass areas (rugby field) cause it has a huge turning radius, maybe a better servo? I'll check on those arms and the shocks, I was looking at the integy piggyback ones, but haven't check the HPI ones.
 
I have a set of HPI big bores. They seemed like an awesome idea, but out bashing in the desert near Iraq here I snapped one (
). Not the rod but the lower plastic end. Those shocks are bigger "bore" but not bigger everywhere so the pressure/impact on the peices of the shock is the same and only distributed to one shock per side as opposed to two (stock) so I think the duals share the impact better. That's just my experience, but i'm jumping 10ft so maybe no shock can really handle many of those. They were bloody expensive and I'm kind of regreting it...kind of.
Check your diffs, if they are binding when you turn that might be affecting your radius.
 
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A powerful steering servo and good rechargeable rx pack are great upgrades on any rig. But like boody said, check for binding issues before you spend dough on something that you don't necessarily need.
 
Like all these guys said aluminum is stiff, rigid, and cost alot more $.
My thrashing buddy had the aluminum upper arms from integy and snapped them first run out. I only have the lower a-arms from integy. no problems. Heard bad things about the aluminum shock(they are a nono).
 
Anything Integy is a no no. A lot of folks end up with Integy parts before they realize it. All you can do is run 'em until they break.
 
hop up parts for savage

i like to make all my toys unbreakable,but starting with the savage is a great choice.
1-the first thing to up grade is the steering servo179-250 0z in torque (if you are going to the big joes you might whant to get the 400 oz in servo

2-the second thing i would upgrade is the spur gear and the clutch gear
replace with a set of hardened gears from Robinson racing products(make sure to replace both or the hardened gear will destroy the unhardened gear)THIS UPGRADE IS A LITTLE EXPENSIVE $30-$40

3-A arms can be upgraded tp RPM ARMS (GUARANTEE FOR LIFE)

4-Tires like big joes are great but the more wieght the more up grades
If you go to the big joes you wont be happy untill you get the shock upgrade(8 shocks replaced with the 4 larger shocks (savage flux shock syestem)
NEVER get aluminum anything that can be exposed to bad wrecks A arms shock towers bumpers etc. they look great but are just that,for looks

I have a set you can have cheep
Did not like the res on the out side of the shock.Did not think the performance was worth the weight of the shock
 
boody1981: there is a hobby shop in IRAQ?!?!?! thats amazing cuz i live in moab utah USA! and i have to drive 3 hours round trip to get any parts or fuel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sweet vid tho@!@!!!
 
the only shocks you should be looking at are the Losi LST2 shocks. Several companies make mounting kits for them now and they are great. They won't even notice a little 10ft jump.
 
what oil wt should go in those Losi LST2 shocks? Thanks
 

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