what Diff would it make?

[nitro zombie]

I'm new to the 1/8 buggy thing & i have noticed my 9.5 mbx will unload to the front easily i have some diff loc grease and was wondering wether i should use it or get some diff silicone fluid and how it would affect the handling?:smoke:

 

[FlyinRazorback]

Take your diffs out, clean the grease out of them and fill them with silicone diff fluid. Front 3,000, Center 7,000, and Rear 1,000.
That should be a good starting point.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Some day someone can explain to me how to tune diffs on an 8th scale and what the effects are and WHY. I'm new to buggies but would love to learn.

Anyone?

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Heres what made me understand it as I was in the dark like you
diffs explained

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

Now thats informative! THANK YOU!

:thumbsup:

 

[FlyinRazorback]

Here's my .02 worth
I don't really know the physics of how it works, but I have an idea when to change the oil and either go up or down in weight.
On loose or tight tracks go with 3,7,1. When running thinner oils, it allows the diffs to do their job, which is seperating power from the wheel that is slipping to the wheel with traction.
On tracks that with high bite go to a thicker oil in the front and center. The car will feel a little more aggressive. The thicker oil slows down the "diff action" and lays the power down a little stronger. You would only do this with tracks with high traction b/c if the track is loose or rutted it will be hard to put that power down.
Alot has to do with the engine as well. If you want a little more punch on the bottom go with a higher center diff weight. As you go up you will get a little more punch out of the bottom. However, too much and your car will be unstable, especially with a loose track or over whoops and rough sections.

Not sure I made alot of sense with this, but in my mind I can see how it works :dumb: Chances are most outdoor tracks will be more loose than not, so I always tell people to start of with 3F, 7C, 1R which is a good starting point.

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

That makes complete sense to me. So the thicker the oil the more 'locked' the diffs become.

:coffee

 

[FlyinRazorback]

Yep, that's how I see it

 

[RaCinJason399]

so if the front spin harder than the rear just put thicker oil/ grease in it?

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

I'm trying to figure out how, in my head, that the ThickF, MedM, ThinR, effects the traction properties. I'm just envisioning what I would want the tires to do at certain times on certain terrains.

Man, this can be scary LMAO!

Seriously, think of all the possible combinations. And the work it takes to make the adjustments for what you need.

I'm now determined that I can make diff adjusments that would considerably help the rapid deterioration of tires on pavement. I've done it in 6 tanks. Gone. Although powerslides dont help at all!

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Originally posted by FlyinRazorback
Here's my .02 worth
I don't really know the physics of how it works, but I have an idea when to change the oil and either go up or down in weight.
On loose or tight tracks go with 3,7,1. When running thinner oils, it allows the diffs to do their job, which is seperating power from the wheel that is slipping to the wheel with traction.
On tracks that with high bite go to a thicker oil in the front and center. The car will feel a little more aggressive. The thicker oil slows down the "diff action" and lays the power down a little stronger. You would only do this with tracks with high traction b/c if the track is loose or rutted it will be hard to put that power down.
Alot has to do with the engine as well. If you want a little more punch on the bottom go with a higher center diff weight. As you go up you will get a little more punch out of the bottom. However, too much and your car will be unstable, especially with a loose track or over whoops and rough sections.

Not sure I made alot of sense with this, but in my mind I can see how it works :dumb: Chances are most outdoor tracks will be more loose than not, so I always tell people to start of with 3F, 7C, 1R which is a good starting point.

You made sense good explanation. The correct term for what the grease effects in the diffs is "spooling and unspooling"

Originally posted by RaCinJason399
so if the front spin harder than the rear just put thicker oil/ grease in it?

another day still lost j/k sorry just had the opp to take a poke at ya and took it. Some people want the front to spin harder (with traction) or pretty much everyone does. The Mugen is setup with biased diffs with about 70/30 and the 70% power is in the front. With some driving styles this helps you pull out of turns quicker. He says (and so does everyone else) 3000 in the front and 1000 in the back. The way grease works is the higher you go in numbers the thicker it is. So with 50/50 diff setup meaning 50% of the power to the front and 50% of power to the back 3,7,1 is a good place to start. The heavier weight in the front help you actually put more traction down instead of wheel spin. With only 1000 in the back there is more wheelspin but that suits most driving styles

 

[RaCinJason399]

So then Its fine with the front unloading the power... because the front tires get super skinny and then it just goes.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

When the diff unloads the power at a slower rate more traction is actually being put to the ground in most dirt situatons.

 

[pigpen]

Help please

Sorry to dredge up the old thread, but lets pretend I have a Torsen Center diff, and 2 stocks front and rear diffs in my Ofna MBX. And the track is a high bite, indoor off-road (almost a blue groove track). What diff fluid suggestions would you make? Thanks for your time.


For an example, one guy says he is running 30,000 Center, standard diff, 10,000 front and 7,000 rear. Is he blowin smoke?