• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

Well, I got a T-Maxx.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Tweak

Tweak

RCTalk Addict
Messages
1,193
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Fort Worth
RC Driving Style
YAY! Got a T-Maxx. Not NIB or anything near that... The trasmission is TAPED, Yes- Ducttape to be exact to the chassis and I think that the tranny itself is completely shot. Other than that the mill is in perfect condition, the tires and suspension on it are amazing (I love the double sets in the back) And this is the first MT I have owned that actually uses the EZ-Start thing, wich IMO is a marvel of design in all aspects.

The servos seem to be in good condition (Traxxs) 2018 for the throttle and 2055 for steering. The reciever is rather huge I think and the Throttle Linkage seems to be like forty diffirent peices that all fit together in some harmonious crazy way.

Reason I am starting this thread is: I need some info on the best places to shop around for the Tranny. i read almost all the threads on this side of the board and got some really good tips so far, and the only thing I can actually see WRONG with the truck is the tranny. Compared to the Mammoth, RC10GT, and HPI models I own this thing is space age technology. Everything is really tight and compact on the chassis (From what I can see, you have to remove the mill and/or the fuel cell to get to the rear shocks on the inside) I looked on Ebay and got the typical junk parts and, BTW, Coperdillion also "Custom Builds" T-Maxxes as well.

I am going to take a quick run over to www.rcdocuments.com to see if I can't figure out how to take this tranny off but some tips would be greatly appreciated guys. From what I can see I also have to remove the skids (is that what they are called on this model?) to get to the screws that hold the tranny on. The "Doggbones" or I guess in this case they are just a drivetrain, a very beefy drivetrain extend THROUGH the chassis wich is again something I have never seen.

Again thanks for the help guys! Not bad for a c-note plus shipping I suppose.
 
So, you got a REVO and a Maxx? Great!

You do not remove the bottom "skids", but through the skids are 8 little screws that go into and hold on the trans. From the bottom, remove those screws, undo the linkages up top, and also take out the two long set screws off of the universals nearest the trans. These go all the way through the universal and the short shafts sticking out from each end of the trans. Then just pull the trans more or less straight up fromthe chassis.
 
thats about what I gatherd after taking a more in depth look at the chassis setup...

Why? I mean, it just seems crazy to me to put a servo sticking out from under the chassis, springs you can't get to and eight diffirent screws on the tranny... I cannot believe the setup on the truck, but from what I can tell the engine is powerfull and it should burn some dirt. I looked again Ebay and found some complete Tranny sets but I don't know if the one I have now is a two-speed, single-speed or Reverse transmisson.
 
Yeah... what he said.

If the trans is duct taped into the chassis, I'd suggest getting a new trans case. Be careful when installing the new trans. The 8 screws that hold it in strip really easy. They don't bite into much plastic on the trans.

I think full force rc makes some screw inserts for the trans though that are supposed to be tougher than just screwing into the plastic. You can find the inserts on this page: http://www.fullforcerc.com/screw_kits.htm

I ended up going with an aluminum trans case from racers edge. I think I got it for $80 3 years ago. I sold it though to a friend of mine 2 years ago with all the RRP gears installed in it.
 
Jeeze... this thing is really stuck together.

Since my last post I got the eight screws out of the skids. I will have to get new skids 'cause they are all stripped to crap. The transmisson is still in it, I removed the rear drive cup, but the front drive cup seems to be help on by the brake shoe. There is a small alen screw holding the hex on, but the hex is covered by the brake pad, witch is surrounded by the calipers, and I can't remove the brake assembly withot first removing the radio box and other light stuff. Got the linkages off allright, and that throttle linkage...man that thing is weird.

Thanks for all the posts guys, they are really helping imensly. i found some Anodized Aluminum Tranny cases on ebay for 100 bucks or so. not bad considering the prices I have seen elsewhere so far.
 
Actually, you can remove the front brake/axle screw from the bottom. You have to shove the disk at an angle to get at the screw, then you just unscrew it from the bottom as you hold the disk out of the way. It's annoying, but doable.

Besides, what kind of axles are on it? Sliders, cvd's or dog bones? Remember, you could also take the other end of the axle off the diff to get it apart.
 
The skids do not hold the screws, so don't scrap them, they can't be stripped. The screws just pass through the skids and screw into the trans.

And as olds says, the front screw is accessed by tilting the brake rotor backwards, towards the trans case, at the bottom edge. You should then have just enough room to access the head of the screw that goes through the universal and trans shaft. It really is very easy, possibly easier than the Revo trans. If the brake rotor will not tilt enough to see or access the screw, loosen a bit the brake pads. The entire assembly of trans and brakes will then lift out from the top.
 
EDIT:

Tranny is now off, apart and I am looking at all the gears inside. It IS a two speed, reverse capable trasmision. I looks to me like the only thing actually wrong with the entire deal is a missing "idler" gear that relays power from the tranny to the front drive cup. everything else is either one piece or appears completly operable, therefore, only leaving the missing gear. I was unable to look at the exploded view on my comp for some reason, but I will find and buy the part anyhow. Can't be but a few bucks :)

If this really IS all I have to do to get this thing running, I got one hell of a deal, right?
 
Traxxas trans parts are amazingly cheap. If you are sure you are missing the idler then order one up and install it. Olds' links are the same as the PDF file I sent you.

And you are right, if this the only problem then you got a heck of a deal. T-Maxx is a fun truck. Has some issue with durability with heavy bashing but it sure can be raced and bashed with a few mods.
 
Actually, i believe the idler gear transfers power from the reverse gear to the output shaft...
 
Tweak, sounds like your off and running with the Maxx! I tell ya what's fun,the Wide Maxx Kit! If you're looking to go that route, let me know. The LHS here has a couple in stock for like $40.00. I can grab one and send it to you!

As for the tranny, the only advice I can offer is, have patience putting it back together! I rebuilt my brother's and man, I was letting them fly trying to keep everything in the right place when I put the case back together! I'd just about get it, then some gear or bearing or shift lever would move and I'd have to start over! You'll need the exploded view FOR SURE! Oh, set the two-speed shift point BEFORE you close it up! You may have to adjust a bit later, but it's a bitch trying to dial the shift point in with the case on (in my opinion). Is this the 2.5 or the .15?

Let me know about that wide maxx conversion. Be glad to ship it out to ya!
 
I don't know how to even set the shift points anyhow. It will shirt when it needs too, or be left where it is now. That's the way my mammoth came and it shifts prety good.

The exploded views will definately help with putting this thing back together, I have never seen such a complicated tranny (on a model) before. This, compared to that of an RC10GT just blew me away. I found some complete sets on Ebay for like 10 bucks, so I am just going to order a new tranny and keep the other one in the good ole' pit box for mishaps.

All in All, it WAS a good deal, I like the truck and I will make it work. I now have a little knowledge after setting up that damn RC10GT with all the hops on it, I can transfer some other parts over to this one and have it running great in no time. As for the Mill, it came with two. One is a TRX 2.5 Rear Exhaust, non-pullstart slidecarb. The one that is on it now is an O.S Max 18TM, both engines I have never worked with before. This oughta be fun. It came with four diffirent bodies, two complete sets of Proline Dirthawgs and a set of Comando bead locs. Stock Radio and RX, I believe (Traxxas "TQ3" TX) Dude also threw in like 60 diffirent sets of springs, all individually wraped in plastic wich I thought was a nice touch. I find myself taking this thing outside just so I can put the little EZ-Start thing in and turn it over...that is just amazing to me...heh. I can't wait to get my tranny in and put it on this thing, but I know that won't be hapening until sometime after christmas :(

Oh well, at least the REVO came RTR, this thing is one of the best models I have ever owned.
 
Congrats on the antique :D
seriously I think the maxx is ALOT easier to work on than most MTs......also you didn't/don't need to remove the brake and shaft from the tranny to take it out.....I let the brake cam arm slide out and leave a mark on it where it needs to go back into the cam post......then let the axles "break" into 2 parts.....I found this to be MUCH quicker for removing or installing....you have to re-align the shafts into each other which is a finger dexterity skill to say it nicely, but once you got it it's easy to do over again......
Tweak I have a ton of Maxx goodies if you're interested as well.....like a super chassis and Tranny set that's REEEEEEEEEAAALY nice.......
 
Hell ya I am interested man.

A little side note, I went to the fedex store last night with the missus, lady in there told me If I got her my package today by close of buisness she could get it here by Christmas ::hint hint PLAID:: J/k man. Shoot me a PM and a few pics if possible. I would definatly like to step up from these crappy looking shocktowers/bulkheads ASAP. I don't know anything about the "Super Chassis" or what Monkey was talking about, but I really don't like the whole jampacked look of the entire setup. Everything is so close together it is impossible to work on the damn thing. Monkey, Plaid shoot me a PM guys, i am really interested in this one. Also, I KNOW one of you has some nice rubber for my REVO...
 
Tweak, did the guy mention anything about this being the new "WideMaxx" version of the T-maxx? If he did not, measure the width and Plaid or I can tell you if it is. If it is the old regular .15 maxx then what MW was trying to tell you that there is a kit to convert it to the new Wide Maxx set up. The wide version is much more stable and handles better overall.
 
I am not gonna straight call the guy A moron, but I ended up with a NIP REVO And a beat up T-Maxx... He got a hundred dollar bill and a Fytaba 2PL radio. He didn't even know what hte truck wasman.
 
You're trying to tell us he bought a 450.00 Revo and traded for 100 clams and a used radio, and threw in a T?
 

Similar threads

C
Traxxas web site
Replies
8
Views
541
CronesRacing
C
C
Tmaxx web site
Replies
2
Views
288
CronesRacing
C

RC Builds

Back
Top