Well I did it! First 1/8th scale.....

[Bad LS1]

I broke down and bought my first nitro rc buggy this weekend! Here it is...

That is literally all I have. Bought the kit saturday. Now for the fun part, figuring out what else I need! I know the obvious stuff like motor, remote, etc. But for me and any other newbies that might read this maybe some of you pro's can start listing everything I will need to go along with this kit. Anything you can think of will be great! Oh and I have already made a "work area" in the garage with a table and chair for my new hobby.

 

[aj200415]

radio
engine
fuel
fuel bottle
glow starter
glow plugs
glow plug wrench
Hex head wrenches
assorted screw drivers
ARO
air filter oil
Batteries
failsafe's are good
and alot of time fixing and upgrading stuff!

 

[HeartBreak]

AJ pretty much nailed it. Radio gear, you want medium torque/speed on the throttle/brake. Steering, as much torque you can put on it, the better. If you can afford a 200oz/in servo, all the better.

I'd recommend a 5 cell nimh pack; FastEddy sells some good ones for cheap. He can also hook you up with a charger for it.

You're going to need a good starter box; I have the blue/chrome top Ofna box with a 12v gel cell. It pops over my motor just fine.

You'll also need the other stuff; an engine (OS's VZ-B is a killer motor, but any other bumpstart motor will do you fine), an exhaust pipe (I run an Ofna 063 in my MBX5).

You'll need fluids, like CA glue, blue threadlock, afterrun oil, and fuel. Oh, and paint for the body. And dye for the rims and wing, if you don't like white (use a glass pan).

Don't skimp on the tools. The better tools you get now, the better off you'll be. I have the Dynamite set of hex drivers; they're perhaps the best allens I've ever owned. Those, and the T-handle glow plug wrench by Dynamite.

Also, pick up a decent temp gun while you're at it. Raytek is the brand I use, but any brand is decent.

The only tip I can give you is to read the books before starting assembly. You will have not one, not two, but THREE instruction sets to refer to. Don't worry; as long as you lay them out and remember to check the second and third after completing each step, you'll be alright.

Also, on each graphite piece, run a bead of CA around the edge; it will seal the fibers and prevent the weaving from peeling apart. It takes only a few minutes to do, but the end result is a part that will last you years.

Just be careful not to glue yourself to the part.

 

[Bad LS1]

awesome info! While I already have a bunch of questions the first one is, what is CA? You say to run a bead of CA around the edge. It's probably obvious but abbriviations kill us newbs. LOL

 

[jon2]

CA is short for cyanoacrylates. It is a widely use glue in the hobby world. THere is a fast and slow curing clue. IF you are pretty good with stting things and glueing them then the fast is what you would use. If you are like me and suck at gluing...Slow is the route you will take.

CA Glue is used for gluing the tires to your wheels. That is by far the most common use in this hobby. I could probably add gluing my fingers together bu then that is why I use slow.

Good luck with it.

 

[Mr T-Maxx]

Super Glue is the most common CA on the market.


Damn Nice Buggy Man!!



Mr T

 

[Bad LS1]

CA is short for cyanoacrylates. It is a widely use glue in the hobby world. THere is a fast and slow curing clue. IF you are pretty good with stting things and glueing them then the fast is what you would use. If you are like me and suck at gluing...Slow is the route you will take.

CA Glue is used for gluing the tires to your wheels. That is by far the most common use in this hobby. I could probably add gluing my fingers together bu then that is why I use slow.

Good luck with it.

Ah ok. I'll have to look for some Slow then.

Super Glue is the most common CA on the market.


Damn Nice Buggy Man!!



Mr T

Thanks! I was going to take this slow and buys stuff over the next couple paydays but having the kit just sitting there is killing me!

 

[Mr T-Maxx]

Take it slow and do lots of research! Most first timers start with an RTR grade unit.... You're starting with a fine ride.... therefore take your time and do it right!

Mr T

 

[ImBroken]

Sweet buggy man... Great choice...
Like others have mentioned, dont rush it... Get some good high end servos. Most will recommend the Airtronics 957/958 combo. I would get one of those Mr. Ninja .21's...
If you can afford it, go with either a Spektrum or Nomadio setup.. Good luck, and have fun with it...:thumbsup:

 

[EMPERORLAY]

I love 1/8 scale buggies. Got my first one on saturday. Big difference as far as the track goes.:green-grin:

 

[HeartBreak]

Running a bead of glue around the edge of the carbon fiber (graphite) parts helps keep them from 'peeling' apart over time. Simply hold the part 'upright', so the side edge is "on top", put a drop of glue (small as you can) on it, and rotate the part so the glue runs around the edge. Keep rotating until the drop is absorbed or until the part is 100% encircled.

CA = Cyano Acrylate, also known as super glue. Thin stuff is what you'll want for the carbon fiber, so it'll wick into the parts.

 

[jetmechG550]

Nice choice for a first buggy. Make sure you check out my build thread in the 1/8th section. It's not very detailed but I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you might have. I'm running a nomadio Sensor with a 7.4V LiPo setup and JR 8800S and JR9000T servos. For club racing I use a Novarossi P5X w/ JP-3 pipe and just got my Ninja back today from RB Mods that I will be running at bigger events.

 

[FastEddy]

Did I miss it or has anyone mentioned BLUE LOCTITE!! and lots of it.
Someone tells me the Loctite sticks work real well

 

[Bad LS1]

Nice choice for a first buggy. Make sure you check out my build thread in the 1/8th section. It's not very detailed but I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you might have. I'm running a nomadio Sensor with a 7.4V LiPo setup and JR 8800S and JR9000T servos. For club racing I use a Novarossi P5X w/ JP-3 pipe and just got my Ninja back today from RB Mods that I will be running at bigger events.

I read it a couple days ago. Good stuff! Thanks for the offer. I'm sure once I break into the box and start building I will have a few questions. I'll make a post of my progress as I go. I'm going to purchase a good set of tools, servos, motor and pipe today. I'm sure it will take a week or two for those parts to be shipped. Once I get them I will start the build.

 

[jetmechG550]

The only confusing part is jumping from the standard MBX5 manual back and forth to the MBX5R manual. You may want to go through the book and mark the steps where you need to refer to the other manual. Other than that a few things get lost in the Japanese to English translation but it's not difficult. Just don't open all the bags until it's referenced, each step calls out what bags you will need and then all the Prospec parts, or R parts are in one bag. Have fun, it's a good build.

 

[redneckracer1979]

Yeah use blue locktite. The red stuff will come back and haunt you.

 

[hamz9561]

ost_count1: Blue Loktite is your friend. I found out the hard way when I lost a dogbone off of my RC18t with all of the Factory Team Aluminum goodies. Use it on every metal-to-metal connection.

 

[ImBroken]

Use a tiny drop of ca glue for any screws going through the chassis into plastic... Works great...

 

[24/7]

Can I dare ask guy's aprox what does it cost to get into a setup like this minus the radio ???

Cheers
24/7

 

[Bad LS1]

Can I dare ask guy's aprox what does it cost to get into a setup like this minus the radio ???

Cheers
24/7

while I knew it wouldn't be cheap, it sure does add up quick. I'm right at $1,000 for the MBX5R chassis, engine, exhaust pipe, and manifold. I still have a long way to go before I'm out on the track racing.