Waste Land
Hardcore RCTalk User
Ramp Building 101 – Jesse Martin – Waste Land
Tools
1.Tape Measure
2. Pencil
3. Jig Saw
4. Skill Saw
5. Hammer/Nail or Drill/Screws
6. Safety Glasses (Not required but I prefer them. Eyes mean way too much to me not too)
Materials (You may need more, this was for my ramp)
1. 4x8 3/8” Sheet Ply Wood - $13(Lower quality)
2. 2x4x10 Board - $4
3. 4x8 1/4 “ Sheet Ply Wood - $15
You will have quite a bit left over and can build a smaller ramp or an add on to this one that can be added and removed easily with pegs.
___________________
Step One: Brain Storm
Think about what size ramp you want to build and for what purpose. Remember that the length and height never have to be perfect numbers. You will give or take to make the curve proportional. I am aiming for 2x2x4(2ft tall/2ft wide/4ft long) and came out with an inch height difference and a slightly longer jump.
The Break Down:
For Distance: You need a slight curve with a smooth and long transition. The ramp face should be pointing more outward then up in the air.
For Height/Flips: Bigger Ramp with a nice hard curve but still smooth. Face of ramp is point up and out...but not just straight up.
Draw MANY MANY MANY line until you find out what you like. Stick your car up to it. Is it too steep? not steep enough? does it curve smoothly?
_____________________
Step Two: Draw The Curve
Starting from the corner of the plywood. Mark off your height and length to give yourself an idea of how your line will flow. Start with a pencil and move it along in the curve you want, but do not draw. Just get a feel of what you want. Start out drawing very dim lines (so it will not confuse you later). When drawing your line I find it better to start from the height mark, and draw small lines downward. This will give you the angle you want and let it match up to the curve.
Remember, you can cut off excess/bumps later, so it’s always better to have too much than not enough. Do not worry about making your line perfect; it will get bumpy during the cut anyway. So get your line set, make sure its the one you want and then darken it in.
________________________
Step Three - Cutting Your Side Braces/Shapes
Alright, Now take your board and lay it on a surface that you can use a jigsaw on. I went with two horses/stands. Start from the height marker and cut toward the back. Take your time and do it right.
Alright, you now have your first side. We will be using this as a template for the other side. So just put it on the CLOSEST corner next to the one just cut (It saves wood for the face). Now Trace the outline when the boards are flush on both sides. Cut it out too.
NOTE - If you are not satisfied with your curve, correct it here by shaving/cutting more or less with the jigsaw
________________________
Step Four - Editing your Curves/Sides
During the cutting step, you'll make small humps, bumps and mismatching surfaces by mistake. So take the better-looking side and identify all of the bump and humps in it. You want a flowing surface to lay your board on when you’re done so it will be flush.
Start by marking all the humps you see. Just an "X" under them will be fine. You can start shaving off the excess with the jigsaw, then later go back with a sander (not required) for that extra smoothness.
When you have your curve smooth lay it on top of your other curve and trace the new smoother transition. They will never be perfect but try to get them as close as possible. Shave the new outline and sand it. Put your two pieces together making them match.
There...your sides are done. You now have a basic frame!
________________________
Step Five - Cutting Braces
Alright, now we are making the braces for under the ramp(minimum of 5). Once you know the width you want you can get started. Here is my example for my 2ft wide ramp.
The sidepieces were 3/8" Ply Wood but 2 pieces so that’s 3/4 total width. So our 2x4s need to be 1ft 11 1/4(23 1/4inches) to make a perfect 2ft. This isn’t needed but when your on a budget or don’t want to spend another 3 bucks for one brace...it helps big time.
So measure out a piece of 2x4 the length you need for the inside of the ramp. Mark it and cut it with a skill saw. Once you get the first one cut, just use it as a template for the others.
________________________
Step Six - Bracing
Starting from the top. Put in a 2x4 at the top of the ramp. Just sandwich it between the two sides. This is only for RCs so you want to lay the boards broadside up(IF for BMX/Skate lay them 2" side up for support) You want the broadside flush as possible with the curves like so. Just nail/screw in when in place.
Now put in your bottom braces. It need much support since its just for RCs so 2 will be fine for a small ramp. Use more as needed.
NOTE - You can start from top or bottom. I just picked one for instruction purposes only.
________________________
Step Seven - Ramp Surface
"Water Bottles were to help me keep it stable...usually have a helper or two"
Almost done! Just need that surface. Take your tape measure and hook it to the top of the curve. Now follow the curve down to the ground and about 5 inch past the bottom. This will give you plenty of over hang that can be cut off later. Then measure width of the ramp. I recommend adding at least 2 inches to the measurement to give you room to work with. Trying to position an exact measured piece of wood can be a headache. You can cut off the extra later.
Now go measure and mark your ply accordingly and cut.
NOTE! - 3/8" plywood does NOT like to bend. I advise you pick up a scrap sheet or a whole new 1/4" sheet and use it. 1/4" bends easily and even better with some water.
Now soak your board with a water hose. Make sure to get both front and back since this is ply wood
Alright, now lay your board up against the ramp now that it bends easier, and start putting in screws/nails. Preferably one of each side and one in the middle of the 2x4 braces. Then between the 2x4s you'll need to put screws from the edge of the surface into the side braces. Turn the ramp on its sides and look to see if the sheets are coming off the curve....if so, put a screw there.
There is your raw and new ramp!
________________________
Step Eight - Fine Touches
Flatten the ramp - Sometimes your cuts aren’t always perfect, the 2x4s aren’t always straight or the wood is just plain a little off. Sometimes it will make your ramp not sit flush on both sides....no big deal, but its annoys the holy hell out of me. To fix this, wet the entire ramp(we're bending the whole ramp not just a part) and sit heavy objects on to where it’s flat. Leave for a few hours or overnight. Should be better by mourning.
……..
Trimming – Now go back and trim off all the excess hang over ply wood/ You don’t have to do this but it looks a bit cleaner. I laid the ramp on its side and then used the jigsaw to cut. I also used a ruled, and leveled off the top of the ramp and cut it exactly straight.
..........
Covering - It's never a bad idea to protect your new ramp. One-way is too add a piece of sheet metal over the surface and bend it around the sides and screw them in.
.............
Paint - Dress it up! Go buy some $1 paint from wal mart and paint it however you like. We made a few stencils for our team and sprayed them on.
________________________
The Final Product(except missing the chrome piece at the bottom)
________________________
Total Cost - $32 Plain and $37 with paint(I used 3 colors)
Total Time – 4 to 5 hours – 7 hours with painting and masking
-I started this ramp on a Saturday and built it in 1 and 2 hour segments threw out the week while I was off work. It can easily be done in one day.
________________________
I hope you guys enjoyed my tutorial and found it useful. Please post your pictures of ramps you made using my plans. Please don’t hesitate to I'm me or Email me if you have any questions.
________________________
Tools
1.Tape Measure
2. Pencil
3. Jig Saw
4. Skill Saw
5. Hammer/Nail or Drill/Screws
6. Safety Glasses (Not required but I prefer them. Eyes mean way too much to me not too)
Materials (You may need more, this was for my ramp)
1. 4x8 3/8” Sheet Ply Wood - $13(Lower quality)
2. 2x4x10 Board - $4
3. 4x8 1/4 “ Sheet Ply Wood - $15
You will have quite a bit left over and can build a smaller ramp or an add on to this one that can be added and removed easily with pegs.
___________________
Step One: Brain Storm
Think about what size ramp you want to build and for what purpose. Remember that the length and height never have to be perfect numbers. You will give or take to make the curve proportional. I am aiming for 2x2x4(2ft tall/2ft wide/4ft long) and came out with an inch height difference and a slightly longer jump.
The Break Down:
For Distance: You need a slight curve with a smooth and long transition. The ramp face should be pointing more outward then up in the air.
For Height/Flips: Bigger Ramp with a nice hard curve but still smooth. Face of ramp is point up and out...but not just straight up.
Draw MANY MANY MANY line until you find out what you like. Stick your car up to it. Is it too steep? not steep enough? does it curve smoothly?
_____________________
Step Two: Draw The Curve
Starting from the corner of the plywood. Mark off your height and length to give yourself an idea of how your line will flow. Start with a pencil and move it along in the curve you want, but do not draw. Just get a feel of what you want. Start out drawing very dim lines (so it will not confuse you later). When drawing your line I find it better to start from the height mark, and draw small lines downward. This will give you the angle you want and let it match up to the curve.
Remember, you can cut off excess/bumps later, so it’s always better to have too much than not enough. Do not worry about making your line perfect; it will get bumpy during the cut anyway. So get your line set, make sure its the one you want and then darken it in.
________________________
Step Three - Cutting Your Side Braces/Shapes
Alright, Now take your board and lay it on a surface that you can use a jigsaw on. I went with two horses/stands. Start from the height marker and cut toward the back. Take your time and do it right.
Alright, you now have your first side. We will be using this as a template for the other side. So just put it on the CLOSEST corner next to the one just cut (It saves wood for the face). Now Trace the outline when the boards are flush on both sides. Cut it out too.
NOTE - If you are not satisfied with your curve, correct it here by shaving/cutting more or less with the jigsaw
________________________
Step Four - Editing your Curves/Sides
During the cutting step, you'll make small humps, bumps and mismatching surfaces by mistake. So take the better-looking side and identify all of the bump and humps in it. You want a flowing surface to lay your board on when you’re done so it will be flush.
Start by marking all the humps you see. Just an "X" under them will be fine. You can start shaving off the excess with the jigsaw, then later go back with a sander (not required) for that extra smoothness.
When you have your curve smooth lay it on top of your other curve and trace the new smoother transition. They will never be perfect but try to get them as close as possible. Shave the new outline and sand it. Put your two pieces together making them match.
There...your sides are done. You now have a basic frame!
________________________
Step Five - Cutting Braces
Alright, now we are making the braces for under the ramp(minimum of 5). Once you know the width you want you can get started. Here is my example for my 2ft wide ramp.
The sidepieces were 3/8" Ply Wood but 2 pieces so that’s 3/4 total width. So our 2x4s need to be 1ft 11 1/4(23 1/4inches) to make a perfect 2ft. This isn’t needed but when your on a budget or don’t want to spend another 3 bucks for one brace...it helps big time.
So measure out a piece of 2x4 the length you need for the inside of the ramp. Mark it and cut it with a skill saw. Once you get the first one cut, just use it as a template for the others.
________________________
Step Six - Bracing
Starting from the top. Put in a 2x4 at the top of the ramp. Just sandwich it between the two sides. This is only for RCs so you want to lay the boards broadside up(IF for BMX/Skate lay them 2" side up for support) You want the broadside flush as possible with the curves like so. Just nail/screw in when in place.
Now put in your bottom braces. It need much support since its just for RCs so 2 will be fine for a small ramp. Use more as needed.
NOTE - You can start from top or bottom. I just picked one for instruction purposes only.
________________________
Step Seven - Ramp Surface
"Water Bottles were to help me keep it stable...usually have a helper or two"
Almost done! Just need that surface. Take your tape measure and hook it to the top of the curve. Now follow the curve down to the ground and about 5 inch past the bottom. This will give you plenty of over hang that can be cut off later. Then measure width of the ramp. I recommend adding at least 2 inches to the measurement to give you room to work with. Trying to position an exact measured piece of wood can be a headache. You can cut off the extra later.
Now go measure and mark your ply accordingly and cut.
NOTE! - 3/8" plywood does NOT like to bend. I advise you pick up a scrap sheet or a whole new 1/4" sheet and use it. 1/4" bends easily and even better with some water.
Now soak your board with a water hose. Make sure to get both front and back since this is ply wood
Alright, now lay your board up against the ramp now that it bends easier, and start putting in screws/nails. Preferably one of each side and one in the middle of the 2x4 braces. Then between the 2x4s you'll need to put screws from the edge of the surface into the side braces. Turn the ramp on its sides and look to see if the sheets are coming off the curve....if so, put a screw there.
There is your raw and new ramp!
________________________
Step Eight - Fine Touches
Flatten the ramp - Sometimes your cuts aren’t always perfect, the 2x4s aren’t always straight or the wood is just plain a little off. Sometimes it will make your ramp not sit flush on both sides....no big deal, but its annoys the holy hell out of me. To fix this, wet the entire ramp(we're bending the whole ramp not just a part) and sit heavy objects on to where it’s flat. Leave for a few hours or overnight. Should be better by mourning.
……..
Trimming – Now go back and trim off all the excess hang over ply wood/ You don’t have to do this but it looks a bit cleaner. I laid the ramp on its side and then used the jigsaw to cut. I also used a ruled, and leveled off the top of the ramp and cut it exactly straight.
..........
Covering - It's never a bad idea to protect your new ramp. One-way is too add a piece of sheet metal over the surface and bend it around the sides and screw them in.
.............
Paint - Dress it up! Go buy some $1 paint from wal mart and paint it however you like. We made a few stencils for our team and sprayed them on.
________________________
The Final Product(except missing the chrome piece at the bottom)
________________________
Total Cost - $32 Plain and $37 with paint(I used 3 colors)
Total Time – 4 to 5 hours – 7 hours with painting and masking
-I started this ramp on a Saturday and built it in 1 and 2 hour segments threw out the week while I was off work. It can easily be done in one day.
________________________
I hope you guys enjoyed my tutorial and found it useful. Please post your pictures of ramps you made using my plans. Please don’t hesitate to I'm me or Email me if you have any questions.
________________________