Build Thread Warby's Traxxas Nitro Sport Pro restoration

[Warby]

I suppose this means you need a new gasket now?

I was thinking about that too. It should be right. I may need to cut more out of the centre.

 

[Warby]

Engines out again, to fit the new exhaust. Its easier to remove the engine, than using the dreaded L shaped hex keys on the header bolts.

Header comparison:
Sorry I forgot to take a photo of the flanges to show the difference in hole size. You'll have to take my word for it. The blue headers is going to have a lot better flow.

Resonators:

2 minor issues I had when fitting the new blue exhaust.

1. The Ez-Start gearbox has to be fitted to the engine before the header, as the header wraps around the Ez-Start. This made it harder to get to one of the engine mount bolts but I manage
2. I couldn't get full adjustment of the pinion/spur mesh as the new header flange interferes with the gearbox(drive gearbox).

Sorry, camera wouldn't focus.

I wasn't keen on grinding my new anodised header, so I trimmed the edge off the gearbox with a knife, instead. When the engine is in place, it can't really be seen easily anyway.

All fitted.

You'll notice I haven't fitted cable ties to the coupler yet. That's because it's not staying there. I don't like the look of the dirty transparent silicone hose that was probably a clean clear hose at one stage, but has gone off, overtime.

I've ordered both a blue and a black couplers to see what I like best. I just hope they are long enough and are the right ID. They are for the 2.5 and/or 3.3.

 

[Warby]

Some photos with the old, beaten up, og blue body. Wish it was in better condition as I like the blue one better.

 

[Warby]

Oh, I forgot to mention. The 2.5mm thread tap arrived, so I cut some thread in the shock collars and fitted the screws. Worked well.

 

[Littlemotor]

Looking good bro! I’d have massaged the plastic case as well. You’ll want to butt the pipe and header as well when you install the coupler. Look at it as a seal, not a section of tubing. It’s designed to seal a tiny gap, not actually “flow” exhaust, and flames.. It’ll run, and tune better as well being that’s how the header length was designed..

 

[Warby]

Looking good bro! I’d have massaged the plastic case as well. You’ll want to butt the pipe and header as well when you install the coupler. Look at it as a seal, not a section of tubing. It’s designed to seal a tiny gap, not actually “flow” exhaust, and flames.. It’ll run, and tune better as well being that’s how the header length was designed..

Ok. Will do. Good to know. Thanks for that.

 

[Littlemotor]

Ok. Will do. Good to know. Thanks for that.

Yessir-no problem at all. Keep the updates coming! I love me a build thread!

 

[Warby]

Keep the updates coming

Will do.
The last of the screws have been replaced. I've ordered an aftermarket, anodized air filter from the UK. Bling bling. I'm also going to make or buy a wing and some Nitro Sport decals. Then I think that's about it.

 

[Chubaka]

Engines out again, to fit the new exhaust. Its easier to remove the engine, than using the dreaded L shaped hex keys on the header bolts.

View attachment 234859

Header comparison:
Sorry I forgot to take a photo of the flanges to show the difference in hole size. You'll have to take my word for it. The blue headers is going to have a lot better flow.
View attachment 234860

Resonators:
View attachment 234861

2 minor issues I had when fitting the new blue exhaust.

1. The Ez-Start gearbox has to be fitted to the engine before the header, as the header wraps around the Ez-Start. This made it harder to get to one of the engine mount bolts but I manage
2. I couldn't get full adjustment of the pinion/spur mesh as the new header flange interferes with the gearbox(drive gearbox).

Sorry, camera wouldn't focus.
View attachment 234862

I wasn't keen on grinding my new anodised header, so I trimmed the edge off the gearbox with a knife, instead. When the engine is in place, it can't really be seen easily anyway.

View attachment 234863

All fitted.
View attachment 234864View attachment 234865View attachment 234866

You'll notice I haven't fitted cable ties to the coupler yet. That's because it's not staying there. I don't like the look of the dirty transparent silicone hose that was probably a clean clear hose at one stage, but has gone off, overtime.
View attachment 234867

I've ordered both a blue and a black couplers to see what I like best. I just hope they are long enough and are the right ID. They are for the 2.5 and/or 3.3.
View attachment 234868View attachment 234869

Ill look. Those 3.3 are shorter. I can't try it on the .15 as I'm a county up until tomorrow.

If i can't find one we have an ace hardware that has something similar to the coupling. You might need to look at your hone improvement store too.


You make me proud grinding the tranny case instead of the blue header.

 

[WickedFog]

Looking great bro!

 

[Warby]

Looking great bro!

Thank you

 

[Warby]

I thought I'd add a bit of history about this model. I actually forgot to put it at the start of the thread.

Model: Traxxas Nitro Sport SE (2003) - 4510
Type: 1/10 Scale Nitro Truck/Truggy

Introduced by Traxxas in 2003, the Nitro Sport SE (Special Edition) Stadium Truck - # 4510 - came an entry level model fully assembled RTR, with an upgraded, blue anodised TRX-15 Pro Engine with EZ-Start, a choice of four pre-painted Bodyshells, TQ 27Mhz AM Radio System and Magnum 281 Transmission with ball bearings.

Early versions of the Nitro Sport SE came in the old box, with a "Special Edition" sticker in the bottom left hand corner, showing the TRX-15 Pro upgrade and announcing $100 of free upgrades.

The 2WD model is based on a double-deck, alloy and composite chassis, with a gear type differential, black coil spring over oil filled dampers, universal joint drive-shafts, slipper clutch and bushings.

Source: https://www.rcscrapyard.net/au/traxxas-nitro-sport-se.htm

Mine is the 3rd version of the Nitro sport. The first with the Pro .15 engine.

 

[ahr43]

Thanks for the background info, Warby. AND the link! Was able to bring up info on my old Academy Griffin Pro from back in the day. -AC

 

[Warby]

Thanks for the background info, Warby. AND the link! Was able to bring up info on my old Academy Griffin Pro from back in the day. -AC

It's a great website. I've used it quite a bit.

 

[Warby]

I think the black coupler looks better

Before:

After:

The other blue coupler that I ordered did fit well but stood out like a sore thumb as it was a different blue. The black looks better.

 

[Warby]

And the blue anodised air filter arrived from the UK. I'm happy with it. It's well made and the blue matches perfectly. Fits well. I'm glad, as it wasn't a cheap one. It came with a spare foam too. I'm glad I didn't go with a cheap AliExpress one.

 

[Doom!]

Black coupler looks much better! everything is coming together beautifully.

 

[Warby]

While I was ordering parts for my second build, I added these to the cart.

The blue anodised antenna crimp nut is just for bling,

but the spacers are to rectify an issue.

I never accepted that I can't tighten the wheel nut, without the wheel locking up.

For some reason, these bearing spacers were fitted to similar models (Ruster, Jato, Stampede etc), but not the Nitro Sport. Not sure why.

Well they fit perfectly and fixed the issue. I can fully tighten the front wheel nuts and the wheels spin freely.

You'll have to take my word for it.

 

[Warby]

I feel I never finished this build thread. That's because it's not. I'm still on the lookout for period correct decals for my red body, and I'm keeping an eye out for a new clear body thats not too $$. Plus a wing. Although I can always make a wing though.

 

[CertifiedMike]

No on makes a decal set for it?
I would think even from the US, postage would just be like mailing a letter. (that might still be $30! )
I think until I have EVERYTHING made for my cars, I'll never be "done".
There will always be that "one last thing to make it perfect".
This build really did come together nicely.
Its a good looking truck!