Vorteks Electronics issues…

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

Glitch

RCNT Racer
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
118
Reaction score
104
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Long drive to a competition tomorrow, and there’s an epic skatepark near where I’m staying. The new steering block for my Vorteks arrived today to replace a broken one and installing went well, now I need to quickly tackle the other problems 🙄 I hope y’all can give me some good tips. I’ll go in order of most important to least.

- steering trim is really really far off from the middle, its location changes after I calibrate the steering endpoints (more on that later*).
- after turning right, the wheels don’t return to the middle perfectly and stay a little on the right side, but if I turn left they snap back nicely to the middle.
- front wheels wobble A LOT especially at low speed, not sure if this is a problem or how to fiz
- car sometimes gently reverses by itself?? I recalibrated the throttle endpoints but that didn’t work.

*I have been struggling with steering endpoints. Sometimes, when in calibration mode, one of the wheels will only turn a tiny little bit and there’s no way to add to the turn during calibration, you have to whip it from the other extreme side of steering to get it into a good place. Then it works. But this servo isn’t cheap, and it’s brand new! It’s a $90 servo I got about a month ago, and it functions fine! I did endpoint calibration right when I got it so it’s never been stressed. Anyway, help with any of these issues would be great!!
Note: I think it returns to center fine when it’s on a stand
 
Last edited:

tntpoof

Forgot more than most will ever know!
Messages
3,282
Reaction score
1,294
Location
Taylor Michigan
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Flying
sounds like servo is the real issue. Id remove servo horn more steering to right then back to center does it hang-up? adjust endpoint to 100 along with trim to zero b4 you turn on rc you dont calibrate the servo only esc.
 

Rob66

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
225
Reaction score
249
Location
Potsdam, NY
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
Long drive to a competition tomorrow, and there’s an epic skatepark near where I’m staying. The new steering block for my Vorteks arrived today to replace a broken one and installing went well, now I need to quickly tackle the other problems 🙄 I hope y’all can give me some good tips. I’ll go in order of most important to least.

- steering trim is really really far off from the middle, its location changes after I calibrate the steering endpoints (more on that later*).
- after turning right, the wheels don’t return to the middle perfectly and stay a little on the right side, but if I turn left they snap back nicely to the middle.
- front wheels wobble A LOT especially at low speed, not sure if this is a problem or how to fiz
- car sometimes gently reverses by itself?? I recalibrated the throttle endpoints but that didn’t work.

*I have been struggling with steering endpoints. Sometimes, when in calibration mode, one of the wheels will only turn a tiny little bit and there’s no way to add to the turn during calibration, you have to whip it from the other extreme side of steering to get it into a good place. Then it works. But this servo isn’t cheap, and it’s brand new! It’s a $90 servo I got about a month ago, and it functions fine! I did endpoint calibration right when I got it so it’s never been stressed. Anyway, help with any of these issues would be great!!
Note: I think it returns to center fine when it’s on a stand
2) Sounds like your servo saver is going out, there is a Kimbrough one that fits.

3) Vorteks wheel suck and wobble out of the box, don’t worry about it since it doesn’t really affect anything.

4) Play with your throttle trim and see if that helps.


What servo and servo saver is it?
 

tntpoof

Forgot more than most will ever know!
Messages
3,282
Reaction score
1,294
Location
Taylor Michigan
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
  3. Flying
any universal servo saver will fit just get the HD one
 

Slick2500

RCNT Addict
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
845
Reaction score
346
Location
Rapid City SD
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
any universal servo saver will fit just get the HD one
You do have to mod it a little bit though.
oyKfVac (1).jpg
 

WickedFog

Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
8,584
Reaction score
9,969
Location
Terre Haute, IN
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
  3. Scale Builder
Do stock servo savers give out really quick? I’ve only driven the car for a couple months
It will depend on how you drive them. Them being plastic, any rough treatment will cause them to wear out quicker. You said you replaced the steering block. That's a sign right there that there may be other damage.

Consider the direction the car took the hit from. Which way did the steering get turned that broke the steering block? Does it coincide with the current steering issue? You have to think about the way the force of the impact travelled through the linkage. The servo saver likely reached its saving limit 😉
 

Slick2500

RCNT Addict
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
845
Reaction score
346
Location
Rapid City SD
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Do stock servo savers give out really quick? I’ve only driven the car for a couple months
No the stock one actually lasted longer than the Kimbrough, the Kimbrough isn't broke it just doesn't center anymore. I went back to the stock one that came with the car, I only ran the Kimbrough for a few months the stock one has been going since 2018.

Another stupid design decision on Arrmas part, these cars are too big for that style of servo saver, the servo saver needs to be integrated into the steering bell crank like everyone else does on their 1/10 4wd platforms.
 

WickedFog

Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
8,584
Reaction score
9,969
Location
Terre Haute, IN
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
  3. Scale Builder
No the stock one actually lasted longer than the Kimbrough, the Kimbrough isn't broke it just doesn't center anymore. I went back to the stock one that came with the car, I only ran the Kimbrough for a few months the stock one has been going since 2018.

Another stupid design decision on Arrmas part, these cars are too big for that style of servo saver, the servo saver needs to be integrated into the steering bell crank like everyone else does on their 1/10 4wd platforms.
Yeah, the on-servo savers are terrible. I typically don't run servo savers after I upgrade the servos anyway. Most of the servos I buy are stronger than the linkage they are throwing around, so the weak link is rarely my servos. Now the Traxxas links I have on our drag Slash... those are pretty stout. But fortunately that is a closed wheel car, so I won't be running one on it either.

I like the vintage cars, with the long wire linkages that would allow the rod to give way in a crash. The Kyosho cars use that along with an adjustable metal bellcrank saver. The newer designs on most of the RTR are just terrible by comparison.
 

Slick2500

RCNT Addict
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
845
Reaction score
346
Location
Rapid City SD
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Yeah, the on-servo savers are terrible. I typically don't run servo savers after I upgrade the servos anyway. Most of the servos I buy are stronger than the linkage they are throwing around, so the weak link is rarely my servos. Now the Traxxas links I have on our drag Slash... those are pretty stout. But fortunately that is a closed wheel car, so I won't be running one on it either.

I like the vintage cars, with the long wire linkages that would allow the rod to give way in a crash. The Kyosho cars use that along with an adjustable metal bellcrank saver. The newer designs on most of the RTR are just terrible by comparison.
I thought I remembered someone posting there was an old Kyosho or something car that used rubber bands or orings or something that would pop off and then the arms would just kind of come off when in a crash.

The Arrma 1/10 platform is full of so many flaws, I refuse to buy another one and tell people to avoid them because the design flaws are so bad that they cannot even be rectified without redesigning the part of the car.
 

WickedFog

Starter of too many projects
Supporter
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
8,584
Reaction score
9,969
Location
Terre Haute, IN
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Crawling
  3. Scale Builder
I thought I remembered someone posting there was an old Kyosho or something car that used rubber bands or orings or something that would pop off and then the arms would just kind of come off when in a crash.

The Arrma 1/10 platform is full of so many flaws, I refuse to buy another one and tell people to avoid them because the design flaws are so bad that they cannot even be rectified without redesigning the part of the car.
The only rubberbands I remember in RC was the ones used to hold wings on the RC planes my dad had, and the batteries were often held in with rubber bands on some RC cars. With todays high flying stunts, that stuff wouldn't work these days.
 

Slick2500

RCNT Addict
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
845
Reaction score
346
Location
Rapid City SD
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
The only rubberbands I remember in RC was the ones used to hold wings on the RC planes my dad had, and the batteries were often held in with rubber bands on some RC cars. With todays high flying stunts, that stuff wouldn't work these days.
Oh it was an onroad car, or maybe I am thinking of the car you are talking about mixed with something else.
 
Top