Upgrades - T-Maxx 3.3

[Greywolf74]

I would start with the bulks and the braces and then just replace things as they break, if it breaks once in a blue moon Id say go stock.....once in awhile Id say go RPM. If it breaks alot go Aluminum. Theres a few exceptions and things to keep in mind though. One exception is the arms. dont go aluminum on the arms. You also dont want to start an aluminum stock pile either.....too much aluminum will make your kit heavy and weigh it down. You also want to bear in mind as you replace things that there are some points you want weaker than others because if you do experience a breakage you want it to be on something thats cheap and easy to replace. A good example of this would be your spur gear. I always leave my spurs plastic so that is the failure point in my drive train. That way if something happens in my drive train the 4 dollar spur gear strips and not soemthing in my diff or transmission that costs many times more than that to replace. Just somethings to keep in mind.

 

[theant]

Plastic parts should be: Spur, arms (RPM are the best IMHO), body posts, skids (RPM again are my choice)

 

[hamz9561]

I would never recommend aluminum for suspension parts. RPM makes great arms and skid plates.

 

[srbecker]

Thanks everyone. I think that for now I am going to purchase the bulkheads and cross bracings and thats it. Then I might get the Davis conrod and replace it. After that, I think I will just replace as I break unless I feel the need to beef up my suspension, but we will see.

 

[Greywolf74]

Other than the davis conrod (not that the davis conrod is a terrible idea just not my cup of tea) I would say thats a pretty good plan overall.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Get a 5 cell hump battery and the 3034 switch first.....they fit in your grey battery box.

Don't waste your time on traxxas servos, get a hitec. I think it's the 5646 that's waterproof. You'll need the traxxas part #5345x to use it.

The conrod will never break if you tune the engine right. Having a spare in the tool box won't help much either, because once it breaks your piston will be junk.

Fast lane machine makes combo bulks, they are a diff case and bulkhead all in one.....I highly recommend them.

Don't forget the hinge pins when you upgrade to rpm arms.

The ez-start will fail, a pullstart and glo-ignitor would be a good upgrade.

You'll have to re-arrange things to do this, but the ofna violator tank will make your truck more reliable.

 

[srbecker]

Get a 5 cell hump battery and the 3034 switch first.....they fit in your grey battery box.

Don't waste your time on traxxas servos, get a hitec. I think it's the 5646 that's waterproof. You'll need the traxxas part #5345x to use it.

The conrod will never break if you tune the engine right. Having a spare in the tool box won't help much either, because once it breaks your piston will be junk.

Fast lane machine makes combo bulks, they are a diff case and bulkhead all in one.....I highly recommend them.

Don't forget the hinge pins when you upgrade to rpm arms.

The ez-start will fail, a pullstart and glo-ignitor would be a good upgrade.

You'll have to re-arrange things to do this, but the ofna violator tank will make your truck more reliable.

Great insight! thank you! I decided not to go with the conrod. I also already have the hump pack and dont plan on doing servos until I find a need for them or one breaks. I am going to start with the FLM parts such as bulks, cross bracings and shock towers. Then I am going to do the true track rear end and front A arms by RPM. I am going to leave engine upgrades such as pull start and conrod until I need to do them as I am not comfortable with working on the motor quite yet. What should I look for as far as GP ignitors and pull starts?

 

[srbecker]

Well, I am officially sick to my stomach haha. Just spent what I paid for the truck in upgrades! I have money spending problems! I have yet to break anything, but also have yet to barely drive it as it is winter here in Buffalo, but who knows, maybe I wont break poop now with the upgrades... Here is what I got:

FLM Bulk heads Front & Rear
FLM Cross Bracing
FLM Shock Towers
Pull start
Rechargable Glow Plug Igniter
Traxxas Big Bore Shocks
White Progressive springs

Yeah I know... I have a problem, but I am all about saving on shipping and only having to tear it down once, efficiency is key. Any tips at this point that I should know when installing these parts?

---------- Post added at 11:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------

Here was my thought process...

1. Pull start with Igniter
2. Save on shipping so purchased the BB shocks and springs from same seller
3. Already going to have shocks and motor off, why not get the bulk heads...
4. Save on shipping so purchased cross bracing and shock mounts from same seller

$300 later and I should have the start of one sick truck! Next when I break something or am no longer poor will be:

RPM True Track upgrade
RPM Front A-arms
RPM skids

 

[MudSlinger33]

I have money spending problems!

You think your the only one on this forum with that problem.

 

[srbecker]

You think your the only one on this forum with that problem.

Haha, good, I dont feel so bad then. We should start a Nitro Anonomous group and discuss what to buy next... oh wait, thats this site!

 

[jtboogie]

That Rpm true track rear kit and dropping the truck ride height 1 knotch makes the truck handle completely different. Good plan going with the FLM bulks. I left my rear bulk stock to cut back on weight gain plus I never had an issue with it breaking, but did break my front bulk twice before throwing a Golden Horizon aluminum bulk up front. However I have issues doing wheelies what so ever with the truck now. However I have my truck lowered almost as low as possible to prevent roll overs so the this is probably more of the cause for no wheelies rather than the extra weight of the aluminum bulk up front.

 

[theant]

Well, I am officially sick to my stomach haha. Just spent what I paid for the truck in upgrades! I have money spending problems! I have yet to break anything, but also have yet to barely drive it as it is winter here in Buffalo, but who knows, maybe I wont break poop now with the upgrades... Here is what I got:

FLM Bulk heads Front & Rear
FLM Cross Bracing
FLM Shock Towers
Pull start
Rechargable Glow Plug Igniter
Traxxas Big Bore Shocks
White Progressive springs

Yeah I know... I have a problem, but I am all about saving on shipping and only having to tear it down once, efficiency is key. Any tips at this point that I should know when installing these parts?

---------- Post added at 11:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------

Here was my thought process...

1. Pull start with Igniter
2. Save on shipping so purchased the BB shocks and springs from same seller
3. Already going to have shocks and motor off, why not get the bulk heads...
4. Save on shipping so purchased cross bracing and shock mounts from same seller

$300 later and I should have the start of one sick truck! Next when I break something or am no longer poor will be:

RPM True Track upgrade
RPM Front A-arms
RPM skids

In my opinion, you got all the necessary upgrades! When installing the shocks, dont over tighten the screws that come with them when installing into the towers. Dont overtighten any of them for that matter. I overtightened one of the shock mounting screws, and ended up snapping the head of my driver off inside the hex screw so I had no way to get it out seeing as it was also loctitied in. In the end I had to return the tower and driver back to Golden Horizon for replacements. All free to me of course! (Lifetime warranty). Also, make sure that you use blue loctite when it is metal on metal.

 

[srbecker]

In my opinion, you got all the necessary upgrades! When installing the shocks, dont over tighten the screws that come with them when installing into the towers. Dont overtighten any of them for that matter. I overtightened one of the shock mounting screws, and ended up snapping the head of my driver off inside the hex screw so I had no way to get it out seeing as it was also loctitied in. In the end I had to return the tower and driver back to Golden Horizon for replacements. All free to me of course! (Lifetime warranty). Also, make sure that you use blue loctite when it is metal on metal.

Well that gives me a little more piece of mind knowing I got the necessary upgrades! Someone mentioned in the other forum to get Tony's Screw kit, is this necessary or is this just an upgraded/stronger set of screws? I think I am going to lay low on the rest of the stuff for now as I really can't afford any more upgrades for a while.

 

[theant]

Well that gives me a little more piece of mind knowing I got the necessary upgrades! Someone mentioned in the other forum to get Tony's Screw kit, is this necessary or is this just an upgraded/stronger set of screws? I think I am going to lay low on the rest of the stuff for now as I really can't afford any more upgrades for a while.

The Tony's screw kit is only needed if you strip out your mounting screw holes in your trans. As long as you dont overtighten the screws going into plastic especially, then you should be fine. When I stripped out the trans mounting holes, I just bought a brand new trans case instead.

 

[srbecker]

Oh ok, thanks! Now I got these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200700847367?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

doesn't it come with the hinge kit (shown in the bag at the top)? Someone mentioned I will need a hinge kit to attach my A-arms, or do you think he was referring to when I put the RPM A-arms on?

 

[theant]

Oh ok, thanks! Now I got these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/200700847367?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

doesn't it come with the hinge kit (shown in the bag at the top)? Someone mentioned I will need a hinge kit to attach my A-arms, or do you think he was referring to when I put the RPM A-arms on?

They should come with the hinge pins, but I think what they are referring to are Lunsford Titanium hinge pins as an upgrade. You will never break them. Or FLM makes a hinge pin upgrade that you could look at too, but I wouldn't bother with those for now, I think that the pins that come with the FLM bulks would be strong enough for now.

 

[srbecker]

They should come with the hinge pins, but I think what they are referring to are Lunsford Titanium hinge pins as an upgrade. You will never break them. Or FLM makes a hinge pin upgrade that you could look at too, but I wouldn't bother with those for now, I think that the pins that come with the FLM bulks would be strong enough for now.

Ok, awesome! I dont want to buy anymore stuff at the moment haha. I'm still in shock for spending $300 on upgrades when I only paid $450 for the truck haha

 

[theant]

Ok, awesome! I dont want to buy anymore stuff at the moment haha. I'm still in shock for spending $300 on upgrades when I only paid $450 for the truck haha

Yeah, I've got probably around $600 into mine for upgrades. Mine started as a 2.5 classic model (4910) and I have kept upgrading for a couple years now. I still have a long list of upgrades that I want to do....

 

[srbecker]

They should come with the hinge pins, but I think what they are referring to are Lunsford Titanium hinge pins as an upgrade. You will never break them. Or FLM makes a hinge pin upgrade that you could look at too, but I wouldn't bother with those for now, I think that the pins that come with the FLM bulks would be strong enough for now.

Yeah, I've got probably around $600 into mine for upgrades. Mine started as a 2.5 classic model (4910) and I have kept upgrading for a couple years now. I still have a long list of upgrades that I want to do....

Its a money pit! I have about $350 in upgrades so far (including the hump pack) and just about $520 on the truck after taxes, so we are talking almost $900 bucks in like 2 weeks on a truck that has just over an hour and a half of driving. I havent even had fun with it yet haha. I need to lay low and stay off ebay for now.

 

[theant]

Its a money pit! I have about $350 in upgrades so far (including the hump pack) and just about $520 on the truck after taxes, so we are talking almost $900 bucks in like 2 weeks on a truck that has just over an hour and a half of driving. I havent even had fun with it yet haha. I need to lay low and stay off ebay for now.

Yeah, since I bought the truck I have got well over $1500 with upgrades and all the other small stuff needed as well. Make sure you save some $$$ for nitro!!you dont want to run out of that...