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Scx24 revival!!

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New system says 2-4s capable. 3s is recommended. I am running 2s currently, I expect that's why there is a little cogging on low speed climbs atm.
 
Steering response seemed better with the new esc as well. A little digging and, the old esc uses a 5v/2a bec, the new esc is is 6v/2a....not bad I say.
 
Thought I had a bad servo in the jlu...it's a bad esc. Every servo I plug in is a headskaker, but works fine in every other esc.
The gladiator saw some major work today instead. I have done more to that rig than I planned on when I got it...and so it goes...
 
Ritz413 said:
Good looking out, thank you. So far the popular choice in mini 3s is xt30 or jst...I'll keep looking
Click to expand...
The problem is the PH 2.0 is not rated to carry the load of a 3s LiPo. You'd be better off changing your connector to an XT30.
 
Ritz413 said:
https://teamfedco.com/products/3s-l...or-for-1-18-1-24-rc-car-rc-truck-and-rc-drone
this could be a thing. Has both ph 2.0, and jst so i can use with the c10, and the redcat....
Click to expand...
The JST PH2.0 is rated at 2A constant load. Your SCX24 will pull .5-1.0A load with the stock motor driving over flat ground. Climbing a steep hill, you'll likely see closer to 2A load (max connector rating), and this depends on how much weight you've added to your truck. With metal wheels, diff covers, links, axles, etc, you're very likely to have a meltdown. If you stall the motor by getting your tires in a rutt, you will quickly spike well past that max load rating and likely see smoke coming from the melting connector and wiring on the battery, followed by a 3500° LiPo fire.

The red JST connectors are rated for 3A continuous. The Accent has the 180 motor, which will pull around 1 to 2A. Going uphill will draw around 2.5 to 3.5A. With this truck and a 3s on those tiny connectors, you're pushing this connector even harder, past it's load rating at times.

Both if these estimations aren't taking the servo amp draw into the equation. So going uphill, with added weight, and a beefy servo will very likely be an instant poof.

My advice - convert both vehicles to XT30 to be perfectly safe and allow you to upgrade the trucks all you want. There is a reason finding a 3s with JST's is difficult. Both trucks will likely run just fine stock. But any spikes in amp draw will slowly degrade your weakest link, which is the connectora. And it will very likely happen eventually that you have at least the connector melt. And when it does, if the two wires come together as the plastic melts and your cables fuse together, you're likely not going to get the battery out before it melts everything in the path of the venting of the battery.
 
WickedFog said:
The JST PH2.0 is rated at 2A constant load. Your SCX24 will pull .5-1.0A load with the stock motor driving over flat ground. Climbing a steep hill, you'll likely see closer to 2A load (max connector rating), and this depends on how much weight you've added to your truck. With metal wheels, diff covers, links, axles, etc, you're very likely to have a meltdown. If you stall the motor by getting your tires in a rutt, you will quickly spike well past that max load rating and likely see smoke coming from the melting connector and wiring on the battery, followed by a 3500° LiPo fire.

The red JST connectors are rated for 3A continuous. The Accent has the 180 motor, which will pull around 1 to 2A. Going uphill will draw around 2.5 to 3.5A. With this truck and a 3s on those tiny connectors, you're pushing this connector even harder, past it's load rating at times.

Both if these estimations aren't taking the servo amp draw into the equation. So going uphill, with added weight, and a beefy servo will very likely be an instant poof.

My advice - convert both vehicles to XT30 to be perfectly safe and allow you to upgrade the trucks all you want. There is a reason finding a 3s with JST's is difficult. Both trucks will likely run just fine stock. But any spikes in amp draw will slowly degrade your weakest link, which is the connectora. And it will very likely happen eventually that you have at least the connector melt. And when it does, if the two wires come together as the plastic melts and your cables fuse together, you're likely not going to get the battery out before it melts everything in the path of the venting of the battery.
Click to expand...
That makes sense.....so disappointing to think China would sell me a system with inadequate components.
 

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