Unpacking after 4 years !!

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mr.Pink

RCTalk Basher
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
RC Driving Style
I just dug out my truck after about 4 years . Iam trying to start it .
Will the fuel still be good ( in bottle )?
What should my screw be set at ?
Anything else I should do ?
I am still new at this and would like some info on how to get it runnig again.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am trying to start engine after 4 years !Help Please

Is the fuel still good ( in bottle )?
What should my screw be set at ?
Anything else I should do ?
 
The fuel needs replaced imo, and buy a fresh glow plug also. Hopefully the engine was stored properly and all the orings aren't cracked which would cause air leaks.
 
well what do you do to store an engine properly ?
 
Short story: Cleaning all internals of any leftover fuel as to no attract moisture and rust.
 
Please do not start duplicate threads, thank you........
 
please say what motor you are running maybe you could get more help that way.
 
I have check and there is no rust . the engine is sucking fuel in and it is coming out of the exhaust pipe .
How long do the battery on a Glow Starer rechargable last ? if it has been sitting for 4 years ? I am charging it now to see .
How do I remove a glow plug ?
 
After 4 years no your fuel is not any good. Go out and get a fresh gallon i prefer Dynamite blue thunder but i hear good things about O'Donels(SP?).

To know what settings you need we will have to know what engine you have. The needle settings vary from engine to engine. You can check the manufacturers site and get the specs.

Before you try starting it i suggest you tear it down clean the inernals and put it back together with some ARO (After Run Oil) for some lube. Also go out to your LHS (Local Hobby Shop) and pick up a quality glow plug.
 
If it's a plastic bottle, it's probably crap. Try running a tank of it, but I'd suggest having a new fresh gallon just in case it is so you don't blow a day going to pick up fuel.

I don't think this fuel lasts more than 6 months or so before it's too contaminated to run reliably.
 
If it's been sitting for 4 years, it probably won't even take a charge. A new one with a full charge can be dead in less than an hour if it's being used a lot to start a stubborn engine.
Go to your LHS and get a new one and stock up on a few glow plugs. You can also get a glow plug wrench there.
 
As previously requested, the engine make and size would help greatly in determining what needle settings would be appropriate.

The fuel, if stored in a dark cool place may still be in a usable state. I would shake it up to get the fluids remixed. After four years, the oils and nitro may have separated. Aside from that, plastic bottled fuel stored anywhere but a cool dark place is most likely useless. Regardless, I would still recommend getting a new gallon of fuel.

As previously mentioned, you may want to replace any o-rings or gaskets as they have most likely dried out and are most likely in no condition to maintain a proper seal. This is where knowing the engine make and model might help. Your LHS may be able to help in this area.

After replacing the o-rings and gaskets, a decent amount of after run oil or other decent lubricant run through the engine would be a good idea.

From there, replace the glo plug and get new batteries for your ignitor.

After that, give it a try.

Note, this covers the engine. You may want to consider replacing the fuel tank and fuel lines as they may have also dried out to the point of cracking or developed leaks.

Beyond that, you will have to try the engine and let us know how things go in order for us to be able to diagnose any further problems.
 
The engine is a Yokomo RX that is all I know and it is about 5 years old , it has been rebluilt though .
The fuel smells the same and was in a cool dark place with saran wrap sealing it .
Is there any other way to get the glow plug out . I am sort on funds and don't want to spend lots of cash . I will pick up some fuel though .
 

Attachments

  • Engine3.jpg
    Engine3.jpg
    69.5 KB · Views: 80
You'll need to use a 5/16ths socket wrench, or a glow plug wrench to take it out.
You will have to use the copper ring that comes with the new one.
My suggestion, Don't use the old fuel.
 
Well i got it running sort of ... I can get it running then 10-20 sec. after I take the Glow Starter off it just slowly stops no matter what I do to the throttle or screw .
It also when I had it running for a min. I put it on the ground and it would on;ty move slowly even with full throttle although the engine was not running fast as normal .
What could the prob. be????? - Iam going to get more fuel tomorow
The glow plug glows nice and there is fuel going to the carb and the compression is ok.
 
First of all, I'm sure you have some degraded fuel. When you get new fuel, follow the basics below. That should get you running.

Put the nose of the truck against something firm so it can't get away from you. If you have an EZ start, keep it running while moving your LSN one way or the other till it starts to run.
Adjust your LSN and idle screw till it idles well and will run up to half throttle. (get it to running temp before you finalize any settings) When it idles properly, throttle it to half and see if it stalls or bogs down. If it stalls, it's too lean. If it bogs, it's too rich.
Now go to full throttle. This is when you adjust your HSN. Same thing. If it bogs, it's too rich, stalls, it's too lean.
When it seems to be running good, pinch the fuel line. It should speed up slightly and then stall within 3 - 4 seconds. If it stops quickly, your LSN is too lean. If it takes longer, the LSN is too rich.
Drive it for a while and then take a temp check to make sure it's at the proper temp. If it's too hot, richen the HSN.
You will have to make small adjustments on the HSN almost daily to compensate for outside temperature and humidity.

By the way, the factory settings are for break in, or a starting point if you really messed things up. Once an engine is broken in, don't expect it to run right by going to those settings.
 
Sure thing. It works for me on many stubborn engines. I seem to have become the 'go to' guy at the local track for any tuning issues.
You might want to copy and print it so you can refer to it while you're trying to get it running. Be patient, and be thankful it's still showing signs of life.
 

Similar threads

Back
Top