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trying to keep my savage running...

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M

moecool

RCTalk Member
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Location
terrace, british columbia
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
can anyone help me. i have went through my first tank of fuel, just letting it idle. i tried to start the second tank of fuel break in, but every time i give it gas or try to brake, it stalls out. i think it might be linkage or servo, not sure being this is my first gas r/c! help please!?!?!?!
 
Lean the engine out just a little.
Main thing is you need to turn in the idle screw for now until you get it tuned. Increase the idle gap just a little until it does not die when you apply the brakes.
Check that the throttle slide does not move when you apply the brakes, it is not suppossed to.
 
Ugh.... this problem get's SO many new guys . As Scrogg said , turn in your idle screw but you might want to take off your air filter and look down into the carb to see what is going on . When the throttle trigger on your radio is at nutral the linkage should be pushing the carb up against the idle screw . If you apply the brakes and it pushes it closed more try adjusting the trim on your radio so that it IS pushing it all the way to the idle screw at nutral . Then you can adjust the idle screw to get it to idle the way you want it to .
 
You screw in the idle speed adjustment on the carb until it makes contact with the carb slide when the transmitter is at idle position (neutral, home, rest...). That is, if it is idling where you want it (or very close to it) when your transmitter is on and sitting at "neutral". Then when you apply brakes, the idle adjustment screw on the carb prevents the carb barrel from moving any further, but yet the linkage/servo saver allows the brake to be pulled while the throttle wire doesn't move.

Once you understand it a bit better, it will get easier.

Just try and pay attention to what moves and what doesn't when your adjusting things and try to understand what the goal is.

Currently your goal is to get the truck to idle and stay idling when you apply brakes. So, basic mechanical sense means, the carb can't move when you move the trigger from neutral to brake. If it moves, it's changing the carb setting and stalling the engine.

Your next goal will be getting it tuned well enough to continue your break in. Generally a higher than normal idle helps with break-in for the first 2-3 tanks. Then you can try and back your idle down to a more respectable level.

Keep asking questions and we will keep attempting to answer and more than likely answer in different ways as we learn what you understand vs what you don't.

Final note:
Remember. This is a hobby and it will be fun if it kills you!

Good luck!
 
One more thing, try to keep the idle speed low enough that the wheels do not spin with the truck off the ground. They can slightly spin and be OK as the clutch takes some time to break in as well.
If the wheels spin too much at idle, this means the clutch is engaging and it will cause a lot of heat. Heat will ruin the clutch bearings and shoes and possibly melt the spur gear teeth.
IMO the stock Savage clutch springs are too weak. They need to be 1.0mm springs.
They help the engine tune easier and idle better. They give a higher stall and make it launch harder.
 

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