Traxxas 3.3 wont idle.

[D3MON]

given by the information, your LSN is very rich, which would almost cause it to flood out, so you are having to compensate by opening up the idle gap. factory settings are rich settings for break in not running settings, you will have to lean both needles out to get performance and correct running. common signs of loss of compression is flame outs and inability to start the engine while its warm, but once its cold the metals shrink giving it compression to start again. if you want to check to get a better gauge you can pull the piston and sleeve and see how far the piston goes into the sleeve in the correct orientation as if it was installed on the engine. if it goes past the top, its about done for, if its still down in the sleeve, you still have life left.

 

[monstertruckier15]

Factory settings are given for a reason and the are not running setting. Nor are they break in settings. (which is what everyone think they are) The factory setting are close to get the motor started if you mess up the settings. 4 turns high is as lean as you should go +1/2 turn open is better to start is better.(the manual doesn't say to go any more?) Low is flush and 1/4+- is all you go. The idle gap is set to 1mm open + 1/4 turn. These factory settings settings work just fine. Loss of compression is cause from leaning out the high too much with not enough oil lube and fuel . This can cause the idle to drop and opening it is the remedy. The OP has gone past the recommended high settings and has high idle from the cause of lean running. Once engine warms up the compression is lost with the factory idle setting and opening it is the only option. The OP has set the carb back to factory settings except for the idle which is higher and it runs fine.

A slightly rich engine is better than a slightly lean engine.

 

[HDRIDER56]

If you tried to adjust the idle screw with the rx on, the force of the servo trying to hold its neutral position may cause a stripped idle screw journal. The screw won't strip, the carb does. Because it's composite. If you come to the conclusion that the threads are stripped, you can build them back up with ca or quality super glue. Using a small piece of wire, get it wet with the glue and apply it around the outside of the hole. Let it dry for at least a couple of hours. Then thread the screw back in. This is a touchy solution though. Too much glue, and the screw won't go back in. Install the screw with the glue still wet, and you'll have a fixed idle position. Most likely the wrong position. Do this at your own risk! But if the carb ends up being messed up, what's there to lose? Just be careful and use your best judgment.

Don't you mean to apply the glue to the inside of the carb hole to build the threads back up? Tried it a couple of times, hasn't worked yet. Thinking about trying some JB weld or possibly seeing if there is a threaded metal insert I can use. Would have to be a thin wall, just need to find the thread pitch for the screw

 

[CertifiedMike]

Don't you mean to apply the glue to the inside of the carb hole to build the threads back up? Tried it a couple of times, hasn't worked yet. Thinking about trying some JB weld or possibly seeing if there is a threaded metal insert I can use. Would have to be a thin wall, just need to find the thread pitch for the screw

This is a pretty old thread...
I've seen brass inserts on ebay. Not sure if they would work.
I would buy a tube. Brass or alum and thread the tube. Then insert the threaded tube . You could jb weld the tube in once you get it fitted.
I had to make a brass sleeve similar to this to make a carb fitting adapter.
I bought the sleeve at Napa and I had it threaded, shaped and installed in under an hour!
Brass is pretty easy to work!