Toe in gauge….

[Mtbmatty]

Anyone use the RPM Toe in Gauge ?

I was not born with an eye of a carpenter, this could help. Especially with our 1/10th scale carper racer

do you use a gauge of some sort or eyeball it?…..

 

[bill_delong]

I use the Integy Universal Setup Station which works for all my cars from 1/18 to 1/8 scale where I typically set the toe to 0° on initial build and almost never adjust toe on the car ever again, ha!

 

[Greywolf74]

 

[Mtbmatty]

I will probably pull the trigger on the rpm gauge. I have their camber gauge already, and have been happy with the quality of the parts they make.

The integy is a cool setup, but I’m not there yet….

 

[Greywolf74]

I use the RPM camber and toe gauge. No issues here

 

[Mtbmatty]

I use the RPM camber and toe gauge. No issues here

Right on man, how much toe do you set on your rigs?

 

[Greywolf74]

kinda depends on the rig and what I intend to do with it but mostly I'm just a basher and tend to set my rigs with 1 or 2 degrees of toe in for the front and 0 in the rear.

 

[WickedFog]

Gauges? GAUGES? We don't need no stinking gauges! I set mine by eye. If I were racing, I'd probably be a little more careful. But I'm just a basher. I put a little toe-in in the front, and the rear is usually controlled by the kit. Some kits do have toe adjustments by way of varying pin recepticles in the arms. I usually go with 1° to 2° in the rear if they are adjustable. But the front, on my 2wd stuff, I like just a slight bit of toe-in. On 4wd stuff I am pretty well neutral.

RC's aren't like 1:1 cars, and there is play in everything on RC's anyway, so I don't get too critical about it.

 

[DavidB1126]

Gauges? GAUGES? We don't need no stinking gauges! I set mine by eye. If I were racing, I'd probably be a little more careful. But I'm just a basher. I put a little toe-in in the front, and the rear is usually controlled by the kit. Some kits do have toe adjustments by way of varying pin recepticles in the arms. I usually go with 1° to 2° in the rear if they are adjustable. But the front, on my 2wd stuff, I like just a slight bit of toe-in. On 4wd stuff I am pretty well neutral.

RC's aren't like 1:1 cars, and there is play in everything on RC's anyway, so I don't get too critical about it.

Yea for right now I just eyed the link to the manual for my B74 buggy. I need to get my uncle over here with his calipers and camber gauge. pretty sure he has either a RPM or a losi gauge. I know some people who got that hudy set up station but that is way out of my price range. I'm just doing normal club racing not like a bug national where I really need my car set up.

 

[ahr43]

Linkage setting called for in the owner/operator manual are generally close to what works most of the time in most of the places. If nothing else, it's a good starting point.

Which brings up a point of interest. Having the linkage adjust properly prior to setting toe is helpful. Toe can be set and the car still 'crab' one direction or the other. Linkage adjust is the second thing I look to when having to set in excessive steering trim or sub-trim. First being, of course, servo horn install.

 

[Mtbmatty]

At some point I got away from what the recommended setting was in the manual for our carpet racer. My sons improved but still the car gets banged around a bit. For our basher’s, same thing they get knocked around. I ordered the rpm gauge as I cannot see straight enough to eyeball these things. I hear a lot of you guys saying you run a bit of “toe in”, I feel like a lot of setups are “toe out” front of the front wheel facing away from one another. From what I read this will help with stability at speed and less twitchy steering input

 

[ahr43]

Both my streetrunner and grassrunner use a slight toe out. Seems to slow the steering input-which helps prevent over-correcting at speed better than using dual rate.

Falling short of recommending it though. Still a work in progress with me. Previous to beginning speed running have always run toe in. Exception being my RC drag racing chassis from back in the day. Ran them with zero toe.

Yeah, RPM toe gauge here too. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[Mtbmatty]

Both my streetrunner and grassrunner use a slight toe out. Seems to slow the steering input-which helps prevent over-correcting at speed better than using dual rate.

Falling short of recommending it though. Still a work in progress with me. Previous to beginning speed running have always run toe in. Exception being my RC drag racing chassis from back in the day. Ran them with zero toe.

Yeah, RPM toe gauge here too. Good luck. Cheers. 'AC'

Right on, appreciate your (and everyone else’s) input. Will stick with a slight toe out for now, as I think it makes sense for the time being. I’m trying to make subtle changes, and my son doesn’t always feel the difference. He does generally know when something is way off, so that’s a start….

 

[Jerold]

It's not that complex. You can use a tape measure or calipers if you have them and you only want a teeny tiny bit of toe in. We are talking about 100 ths' of an inch front to rear.

Unless you have a precision tools and setup you will never get the exact number any of these gauges claim.

Measuring an outside dimension of a tire for "angle" doesn't work for all tire diameters. This diagram show two wheel sizes 1" and 4" both at 1° of toe in. You can see they are both 3.62" width in the back. The front varies by .11"

Even on the large scale cars we are looking at about 1/8" difference front/rear. The tick marks on the gauge are 1/8" wide and tires are never straight on the wheel. My GRPs have a fair amount of run out (more than 1/8") that I can see when I balance them. Add in manufacturing tolerances of plastic molds and the is more slop in the setup and tools than what you are trying to measure.

I use custom setup wheels and level surface. The just measure everything. It removes a bunch of variables and it cost about $2 in materials.