Tmaxx ford body

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Wormstud97

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I want to repaint it just looking for some ideas

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I'm starting to realizte that. Lol but i cat afford a new body yet. All my parts come in tomorrow i just have to seal the engine then i should be good to go.

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I'm starting to realizte that. Lol but i cat afford a new body yet. All my parts come in tomorrow i just have to seal the engine then i should be good to go.

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Lol...Whats hard & time consuming ,is trying to get the paint out of the crevasses!
An its hard with out leave a glaze on the lexan!...But you can try...:D

If can succed ,You can try painting it with a dark color to hide the blemishes!
 
I wish I saw this earlier... Yah, a pecan paint job is a one shot deal. Once it's painted, it's that color til it dies or gets painted on the outside and that is UGLY at best!!! At this point, I would prob try and get as much of that paint off as possible and then paint it the same color again. You MIGHT be able to save that body.
 
So paint it yellow again

And what about the windows i wanted them clear but the hazing (foggy) look makes them me want to try and make them like a dark tent. Or should i just get stickers . At the end i want something good looking and I'm in a cheap bugdet. Had to order new throttle spring and carb body. I can't believe i stripped that thing lol
 
You can do a tint or paint them solid black too. You could always cut them out I guess too. Remember that the body is going to need to provide airflow to the engine so it doesn't overheat. I would prob repaint it yellow unless you really get ALL the yellow out of it. I think it would show thru if you painted it with pretty much any other color. Stickers can cover some but I would prob take a look at how you would need to lay them out first. Make sure the stickers will look ok.
 
Update i should have all the paint off by tomorrow. Its cloudy but i hope new paint sticks and lots decent.
 
You'll want to scuff the inside of the body. Some ppl recommend using a very light sand paper, I use scotchbrite pads with good results. Those pads also come in different grades, so go with something light. Make sure to clean the inside with a good dish soap, like dawn or something... Something with good decreasing properties! Get ALL the paint chips, dust and any grease or oils that came off your hands, any old fuel residue and whatever dust the sanding caused. Dry completely. Do your taping with CLEAN hands as well. That will help to get your paint to stick as best as I know how to do. There are also a lot of helpful tips in this forum. You may also find some on the paint manufacturer website too? I am no paint guru but I've done enough to know at least what I wrote will work for you to start.
 
You'll want to scuff the inside of the body. Some ppl recommend using a very light sand paper, I use scotchbrite pads with good results. Those pads also come in different grades, so go with something light. Make sure to clean the inside with a good dish soap, like dawn or something... Something with good decreasing properties! Get ALL the paint chips, dust and any grease or oils that came off your hands, any old fuel residue and whatever dust the sanding caused. Dry completely. Do your taping with CLEAN hands as well. That will help to get your paint to stick as best as I know how to do. There are also a lot of helpful tips in this forum. You may also find some on the paint manufacturer website too? I am no paint guru but I've done enough to know at least what I wrote will work for you to start.
Okay ill get busy with that when i get off work. What paint do i use
 
I'm this case, I would be looking for a manufacturer who offers a color closest to the color you're trying to match. Certainly a paint made for lexan bodies. (I'm not trying to be mean, but you are aware you need to paint the inside of the body, right? This also means you have to tape off the inside.) There are is a lot of technique involved in this. I STRONGLY recommend you do a LOT of reading before you jump in. This can be done very nicely, even with the issues you have with this body having already been painted... This is an excellent learning oportunity for you. Whatever you do, I recommend you spend the extra money for a GOOD masking tape. (there are liquid masks avail. But they seem to be made for airbrush use... Others may have suggestions on how to use them with a brush but I would just use tape. Tape will give you nice, clean, sharp edges of you use a quality tape. Cheap tape tends to bleed and will give you crappy results often times. 3M makes good tape and I have heard good things about frogtape. I just bought a roll of frogtape but haven't got anywhere near painting yet so I have no opinion on results. I recommend reading up on other ppls posts and asking what they used, what results they got etc... Tamiya paint, Parma paint and Pactra paint. Have all given me good results in the past. It has been a while since I last painted. Qualities could have changed since then. Again, read and ask. This is Def the kind of thing that the more info you get, the better off you are. You can test on cut up pieces of clear soda bottles. Testing is Def a good idea as well!
 
I'm this case, I would be looking for a manufacturer who offers a color closest to the color you're trying to match. Certainly a paint made for lexan bodies. (I'm not trying to be mean, but you are aware you need to paint the inside of the body, right? This also means you have to tape off the inside.) There are is a lot of technique involved in this. I STRONGLY recommend you do a LOT of reading before you jump in. This can be done very nicely, even with the issues you have with this body having already been painted... This is an excellent learning oportunity for you. Whatever you do, I recommend you spend the extra money for a GOOD masking tape. (there are liquid masks avail. But they seem to be made for airbrush use... Others may have suggestions on how to use them with a brush but I would just use tape. Tape will give you nice, clean, sharp edges of you use a quality tape. Cheap tape tends to bleed and will give you crappy results often times. 3M makes good tape and I have heard good things about frogtape. I just bought a roll of frogtape but haven't got anywhere near painting yet so I have no opinion on results. I recommend reading up on other ppls posts and asking what they used, what results they got etc... Tamiya paint, Parma paint and Pactra paint. Have all given me good results in the past. It has been a while since I last painted. Qualities could have changed since then. Again, read and ask. This is Def the kind of thing that the more info you get, the better off you are. You can test on cut up pieces of clear soda bottles. Testing is Def a good idea as well!
Okay i will do alot of reading and make sure i buy new frogtape. And will do testing on clear soda bottle.
 
I've never stripped a body....well, not a Lexan one.... but you might want to try a search on stripping it with brake fluid.
As far as the foggy windows, you can try buffing them with polishing compound.
 
When we spoke last, I thought you were thinking to do them in black (windows) as you research, you will find different effects require different prep. Understand, just like in 1:1 auto body, the prep work is at least 75% of the job.laying the paint IS important, but in this case, getting a nice shiny finish is almost 100% done because of the pecan being shiny. Getting it to stick right, laying it on thin layers and coating it all with a bright back will get you your nice finish. Read on and you will understand.
 
I ment to get back to this earlier... Yes, I never have a thought to a chemical strip... I would DEF do a test on a little piece of painted pecan to make sure the brake fluid doesn't attack the plastic and to see how long it takes to get the paint to break free... I would do it as quickly as possible to avoid any damage... Interesting suggestion @Rolex !
The plastic compound would work... I have used it with a buffing wheel many times... Done headlights on 1:1 cars with compounds and buffers as well... I would be concerned that you may burn thru the plastic is you're not VERY careful, but it Def has the potential to work!
 
Like @Certified Mike mentioned: Scuff pads to give the lexan some tooth (I prefer the green ones), I also wash with Dawn and water and let it dry thoroughly. When masking using the masking tape, ALWAYS use a sharp exacto knife blade. If the windows are just a bit hazy (look like they're fogged up from the distance) a light coat of window tint paint should bring them back.

Good Luck.
 
DEF a good point! (pin intended!) like @hamz9561 mentioned... A SHARP exacto is KEY for slicing the tape so it doesn't lift or bunch up... Leads to bleeding and Mickey mouse looking edges.
I should mention... Painting bodies is a skill that takes time and practice. Don't be upset that it doesn't come out as you had hoped (if that happens) This is something ppl take a LONG time to master. That is why I stress reading a LOT... Watch vids, write down tips etc...

Also be sure to keep the blade,clean and free of any residue that should stick to it... Again, leading to poor results.
 

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