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kwong2001
Hardcore RCTalk User
isn't it made by duratrax?
Freon
RC Newbie
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new T Quake
I just purchased a TQ a few weeks ago, but havent been able to bash it yet, due to sh@#$tty weather. I noticed the steering seems a little stiff from time to time,, I can barely type cause my fingers are ripped from trying to start it, and there is no starter box I can buy that will work. I also read somewhere in the forum that some guy was asking why his clutch bell teeth were being chewed, I personally think it's the metal to metal thing in there, I own a duratrax max st. and it has metal cluth bell to plastic spur and I only had to replace it once, because I bashed it in in a wreck. I read a lot of reviews on t quake before I bought it and I read that one that was being tested, had the screws come loose on the trany somewhere, and they recommended that duratrax should put thread lock here, cause apparently they didnt Being that I only ran about 7 tanks of fuel through it I dont know if mine were thread locked or not. any bugs in your truck you came across??
I just purchased a TQ a few weeks ago, but havent been able to bash it yet, due to sh@#$tty weather. I noticed the steering seems a little stiff from time to time,, I can barely type cause my fingers are ripped from trying to start it, and there is no starter box I can buy that will work. I also read somewhere in the forum that some guy was asking why his clutch bell teeth were being chewed, I personally think it's the metal to metal thing in there, I own a duratrax max st. and it has metal cluth bell to plastic spur and I only had to replace it once, because I bashed it in in a wreck. I read a lot of reviews on t quake before I bought it and I read that one that was being tested, had the screws come loose on the trany somewhere, and they recommended that duratrax should put thread lock here, cause apparently they didnt Being that I only ran about 7 tanks of fuel through it I dont know if mine were thread locked or not. any bugs in your truck you came across??
indyjohnny
RCTalk Qualifier
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- #4
the guy at the lhs warned me about the screw deal.. my first move was thread locking all metal to metal.. ( blue lock- tite ) other than that I thought the truck was great.. always see so much trash about TQ but I really was confused about what was so bad about it.. I got some tmaxx wheel adapters for it and the thing is almost silly quick.. very stable in the air.. main gripe I had was that if you raise the ride height very much the front steering will bind pretty bad.. didnt really investigate a fix for this.. just lowered back... so in all honesty I just simply can't tell you what sucks so bad about the TQ.. lock-tite and have fun.. do go for the tmaxx wheel adapters.. really increased performance!! btw.. mine starts on first or second pull everytime as long as I have a good prime.. 
peace!!
I do suggest a rcvr. battery pack.. I have the team orion 1100 hump pack... those are some monster tires your turning and this really gave it some needed power.. I also suspect that the gear shredding thing is more a matter of peeps not checking motor and tranny mount screws and getting just enuf play to do damage.. take care to check and I doubt youll see any problem.. I think I'm done thinking now..
peace!!I do suggest a rcvr. battery pack.. I have the team orion 1100 hump pack... those are some monster tires your turning and this really gave it some needed power.. I also suspect that the gear shredding thing is more a matter of peeps not checking motor and tranny mount screws and getting just enuf play to do damage.. take care to check and I doubt youll see any problem.. I think I'm done thinking now..
Freon
RC Newbie
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Thanks for your input, dollar for dollar I think I got a great deal compared to other trucks. I need to ask you where you got your battery pack from? if I decide to go with the tmax wheels should I still invest in the battery pack? and what is the deal with the t max wheels, I must assume that they are a smaller wheel cause the max is a 1/10 scale. does this make the truck look a little funny, being that the TQ towers over theTMax in size comparison,
better yet can you upload a photo to your members gallery?
better yet can you upload a photo to your members gallery?
indyjohnny
RCTalk Qualifier
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- #6
surprisingly the truck looks pretty proportionate with the maxx wheels and tires.. just lower the body a couple of notches on the body posts and you'll be surprised... you can get the battery packs just about anywhere.. I got my at "hobby town usa" you can get'm cheap on ebay also.. you probably dont have to have the pack.. but after a few sets of new batteries it would be paid for.. and it does make for more power to the servos..
Robie6
RCTalk Racer
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T.Q
I've had my Thunder Quake about a month now, love it. I was given good advice once--"soon as you get your r/c take it COMPLETLY apart & use loctite on ANY metel to metel part, DONT use on plastic, it will ruin it, I used "red" loctite on mine & I suggest maybe the "blue" type as I can't get a few set screws out now! after the 21 was broke in I bought a XTM 24.7, it bolts right in (make sure you get the "standerd shaft") man does that guy fly now, you can notice the power diff. right out of the box, after a careful break in & tuning the hsn that guy will roostertail all 4 wheels!!! (also make sure you get the NEW head with the 24.7 the 24.7 runs a little hotter than the .21) mines seems to be "cold blooded" as its slugish till it gets around 220-F, my steering seems to be fine w/the stock servo, I checked the turning without the servo & seemed a little stiff so I backed off the lock nut that holds the tie rod joint (#19) to the hub (#13) & check the pivot ball (27 & pivot ball nut #28), tighten the plastic nut till it gets almost tight then back off the nut 1/2 turn & recheck the steering, the 1/2 turn is a ball park figure, you want a little play in the ball joint without SLOP, works great, turns fast, hope this helps, Robie6
I've had my Thunder Quake about a month now, love it. I was given good advice once--"soon as you get your r/c take it COMPLETLY apart & use loctite on ANY metel to metel part, DONT use on plastic, it will ruin it, I used "red" loctite on mine & I suggest maybe the "blue" type as I can't get a few set screws out now! after the 21 was broke in I bought a XTM 24.7, it bolts right in (make sure you get the "standerd shaft") man does that guy fly now, you can notice the power diff. right out of the box, after a careful break in & tuning the hsn that guy will roostertail all 4 wheels!!! (also make sure you get the NEW head with the 24.7 the 24.7 runs a little hotter than the .21) mines seems to be "cold blooded" as its slugish till it gets around 220-F, my steering seems to be fine w/the stock servo, I checked the turning without the servo & seemed a little stiff so I backed off the lock nut that holds the tie rod joint (#19) to the hub (#13) & check the pivot ball (27 & pivot ball nut #28), tighten the plastic nut till it gets almost tight then back off the nut 1/2 turn & recheck the steering, the 1/2 turn is a ball park figure, you want a little play in the ball joint without SLOP, works great, turns fast, hope this helps, Robie6
