through a full gallon and still can't get it tuned

[insutama]

I thought i had my savage tuned perfect was running great but then when i got a temp gun i found out it was running from 292 - 310 F so i have basically used a full gallon on trying to tune it and its still out. ill move the top needle 1/16 of a turn one way and it will run decent but kinda bog out at top end but it doesn't stall so i was fine with that and its still at like 292 F then when i turn the needle the other way it stalls so i dont know what to do starting to get frustrated any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[Glass Bullet]

try richening the HSP (counter-clockwise)

 

[insutama]

thats the one i have been turning i just wanna go drive my truck around this sucks

i have barly adjusted the low speed needle so maybe thats where my problem is

 

[MrClean]

Sometimes I'll get so frustrated that I'll reset the needles to factory and start over.

 

[ajames942]

thats the one i have been turning i just wanna go drive my truck around this sucks

i have barly adjusted the low speed needle so maybe thats where my problem is

richen it more. Untill the temo goes to too about 250-260. If not, you may have an air leak.

 

[TWOCANE]

Do like Mr. Clean said for starters then do like ajames942 said and check for leaks around the back plate. hoses and carb.

 

[insutama]

my manuel says to make the needles flush for factory now with the high speed needle thats easy to do but its hard to judge with the low speed needle concidering i havent even turned it more than a turn yet. also would the air leak be in the air intake or in the fuel line ? or could it be either one ?

 

[MrClean]

An air leak can be hard to track down. You can seal the backplate, around the carb, where it enters the motor and around the needles. There are a couple of good videos out there on how to do it. I can't seem to find them at the moment, I have them saved on my computer at home. I'll try to post a link later tonight.

 

[insutama]

okay thanks

 

[ajames942]

Yeah, all good advice. It probably is an air leak and as MrClean said, they can be anywhere. It sounds as if you’ve been running the truck without checking temp for a while. I assume the engine is broken in properly. The bogging you mention can be the result of either too lean a mix or too rich. Without hearing it first hand, it’s hard to say which is the case, but if you don't know the difference, I’d probably try backing the high end out another turn or more and start way on the rich side. I assume you’re running the original (nitrostar) engine, which should run ok at a very rich setting.

Air leak wise, besides your carb base, backplate, front engine bearing, head, fuel lines, and tank, check to make sure the o-rings on your needles aren’t shredded. The threads in the needle valve can tear the o-rings up if you’re tuning a lot.

But first check your fuel tank, lines, and the seal on the lid. It’s easy to do and won’t cost you a dime. I’ve had several Savage fuel tanks crack when the shock tower flexes during a tumble and shoves the shock bolt into the tank. Remove your tank and (with no fuel in it!) plug the line that goes to your carb and blow into the line that goes to your pipe. If air leaks, that’s a good place to start.

You can also check your header to engine seal. If it’s torn or the header isn’t sealing to the engine properly, the tank won’t be sufficiently pressurized and can cause a lean condition. If you plug the exaust pipe with your finger (it's gonna be hot) and your engine doesn't stop, your header probably isn't sealing properly.

The obvious one is; make sure there’s sufficient airflow around the head. You can try running with no body to see if more air flow helps.

If you do wind up sealing your carb and/or backplate (I always do), make sure to use a good quality, “sensor safe” high temp rtv silicone. Make sure not to use too much, apply a thin layer to the carb and to the backplate, not to the engine. This way, you’re less likely to push the silicone into your engine. And let it cure for 24 hours before putting any fuel to it.

You can also try a different plug. Most nitro engines like to run high on the advanced side so you might try a medium/hot plug like an os8 or an a3. On the other hand, running too far advanced can cause your engine to run hot also. Without knowing what plug and fuel (percentage) you’re running and what condition your motor is in (compression), it’s hard to advise on that.

Beyond an air leak you might also try gearing your truck down. If your gearing is too tall it can make your engine run hot, especially off road. If it’s a Savage X it should have come with a 15 and a 17 tooth clutch bell. Try running the 15 if you aren’t already. While you’re at it, check your gear mesh, too tight a mesh can cause overheating as well.

This is one of those situations where everyone is wishing they had their hands on that truck! They’d have it running great in no time! Hope this helps to get you pointed in the right direction. Good luck!

+1 on that nitrojoe. Good Information man

 

[Rolex]

Normally, an air leak causes you to pull your hair out because the engine won't idle properly, and will speed up as it leans out, without warning. Chances are you just need to get your needles set right.
Start by setting your needles back to factory, then lean the LSN about 1/4 turn. Start it, let it warm up, then start accelerating from a dead stop to about half throttle. If it's sluggish getting off the line, lean the LSN by another 1/16, and repeat till it takes off good. You'll need to adjust your idle speed also, with the trim set down to zero.
When it's idling good, and taking off good up to half throttle, start giving it WOT and then adjust your HSN till it runs good wide open.