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Throttle Issues...

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bsodmike

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What do you guys to ensure a 100% working throttle link? I remember at on point the little ball head disconnected from the throttle arm and I swear I think the life of that mill almost went down the drain...I ran and just closed it with my hand as fast as I could :-o

Oh btw, another time the throttle arm came loose from the servo head. This is the MP777 kit btw...isn't there a better way to hook these up?!?

Mike
 
heres something that i did....i had both of those happen to me.....locktite the screw that holds the arm to the servo with a drop of blue locktite. it will come back off when you want it to but not on its own.....now for the throttle ball joint........take some vasaline & coat the ball. if the ball cup is plastic, clean & dry the inside of it really good. get some crazy glue (liquid not gell) & put a drop in the ball cup and pop the ball cup back on the ball before the glue dries....let it dry for bout 2 hrs before you move it around.....the glue makes the ball cup form to the shape of the ball & the vasaline keeps the glue from adhering to the ball.....i have never had a ball cup come off the ball joint doing that even when i drive hard & rough.
 
i always had troubles with return springs. I really want one on my car, but it will either be to tight and not open throttle all the way, and it will drain my batts. cause of the extra strain, or it wouldent work at all.
 
forget the return spring.....i hate those things. puts a strain on the servo/linkage and the batteries....
 
I noticed that you can actually remove the little ball head, this is held on via a tiny torx on most mills..or at least on both the P5 and Vspec I had at one point. What could work is to have a new ball bit milled out wth a metal link and no bal head....i.e. the ball head could become a CVD of sorts...

I'll have to give that vaseline ball head trick a go sometime.
 
jetmech

where you race ? i race in tyler texas.....theyre not too strict about the throttle return spring as long as you have the failsafe installed but are strict on the other aspects of racing such as class, type, engine etc
 
Mostly local but I want to say I've been to SpeedRacer hobbies in Richardson, TX and thought they said you must have a TRS and if your body comes off you must get off the track and replace the body. I also ran on-road locally in a parking lot and they required a TRS. A failsafe is good but if you battery pack becomes disconnected it won't activate.
 
at our club we caint stay on track without the body either but we can run it without it to warm up before the qualifying rounds start & the race....your right about the failsafe not working if the receiver battery comes loose....I've had that happen before & the thing just kept going till it hit & all i could do was watch it happen so from then on i allways used a heatshrink tubing peice a inch longer than the battery plugin connection.....makes it a pain to change the battery when it wont charge anymore but the pain is worth it compaired to the pain of the pocket book.....
 
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