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This Picco .26 Sucks!!!!!

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Throttle

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East Aurora, NY
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I have to walk away for now, this .26 is a pain in the a$$. After two or three pulls my engine is flooded. My settings are all at default. I need to know if my o-rings are bad will this cause the problem? Or do I need to adjust the idle screw? Before I touch this engine again I need some answers. Anyone? Thanks. :angry: :angry:
 
What needle are you using? If you are using the silver needle the factory settings are all wrong. I think factory has the lsn at like 11.5 turns out. At this the needle is about to fall on the ground. Try 7.5 to 8.0 on the lsn and see what happens. I bet your flooding problem goes by the wayside.

Also, if you have not done so yet, remove the needles and check for gasket worms. When they install the needles, a lot of times the threads cut the o-rings and leave "worms" in there which caused havok when trying to tune. Take the needles out and lube up the gaskets when you put them back in.

If you have not sealed the backplate and carb you will also want to do that. If you do some preventative maintenance before you bolt the thing in it is a near trouble-free endevour afterwards (except for the pos pullstart)

Glenn
 
I just came from Fields Hobby in Buffalo and I bought a few upgrades and we discussed my issue and my lsn should be just about flush on the barrell. Jay also hooked me up with a new o-ring for my hsn. I will have pictures for the future Picco owners who need to change the o-rings on there needles. The hsn just after the taper in the barrell has a lip that catches the o-ring and it will slice it. I used 1200 grit sandpaper and cleaned it up. Thanks Glenn for the info. You are right I have the silver needle so this should solve my problem.
 
Jay is great like that.

In fact, when you get it close to dialed in, drop by there and he will more than likely help you get is dead on. As long as he isnt packed.

Glad to see you got things sorted out.
 
Jay is cool. He did half of the break-in on my Hyper-8p. Had to hand lap it for a while too!!

You fellas ready to bash?? Once I'm done moving into a house this weekend I'll need to do a few little things to the Savage and Ill be ready!!
 
Dude I have had tuning issues with my picco since day one. Last weekend I set it back to stock settings and leaned out the high speed needle and wow was I amazed at how much frickin power this motor has. Hang in there you will be rewarded and glad you bought it.
 
I know I'll be rewarded in the end but I was getting frustrated with it. I had to just walk away and calm down. I have blisters from pullstarting the engine over 100 hundred times. I ordered more hopups while I was at Fields. A 3 shoe clutch and flywheel and 16t bell. I picked up my dynamite cvd's and 3000wt oil for my spider mod. After the engine break in I'll do my upgrades. Thanks for the support guys.
 
Disregard the above remakr about ditching your engine...lol.

I've noticed that they can be a bitch to get truly broken in up to a gallon+ but you'll be greatly rewarded.
 
I just want to add something here which I think is important to note:

Almost any and all high port configuration engines will be tougher to tune. Period.

However, OFNA did a poop job on their documentation, as usual from OFNA ( I dont know why they can't just get their documentation together, for such a big company they truly SUCK ASS in that department ). That doesn't help matters any when you are trying to tune a mill, especially brand new.

I have learned however, over time, that when tuning a BRAND NEW MILL, that what works best for me is this:

Tune the idle screw by EYE - only a 3-4 mm gap when the barrel is closed.

Then, I tune the low end needle right off the bat, just enough to get it running. I closely monitor the temps as not to reach over 200-210 at idle. I let a tank or two run through like this and perform heat cycles ( where when either the mill stalls, or when the tank runs out, you adjust the flywheel so that the piston is up high for cool down. ) I do this for a couple of tanks.

Then, off to the high speed needle. A quarter turn at a time for the most part, just to get it running good enough to do figure 8's. The figure 8's prevent me from going wide open but still allow me to get the mill hot enough. Again, I do this for a couple of tanks, and when it dies or when fuel runs out, I position the piston up high and let it cool down.

While instructions are good for some companies, they still dont always match up to where your carb will get you both the temp and performance you are looking for. Even with the exact same mill, the needle settings can be way different.

So yes, this can also be dangerous. So while starting, especially in the beginning, keep it on a block of wood with the wheels OFF the ground. You can EASILY shut it down by completely covering the air filter or carb opening with your hand. That is if you have gone wayy too lean on the low end to get it started.

For me, this works well, but can be nutty.

Ill reitterate though on the high port (like a 7 or 8 port), they will be more cumbersome to tune. But when its done, you will LOVE the power and results.

Glad you are back and in hand.
 
I agree with 30%NitroBoy. who in their right mind would ditch anawseome mill for an XTM or Mach engine? That is a freaking joke. If anything then I would at least try to get the engine issues solved. Now if the application was too much or not enough then I would understand but it is a great engine and should turn your Truck into a speed demon!!
 
I think that the tuning is part of it! Of course if you want to ditch it I can give you a address! "Stay the course" Cause I want one too. So let us know what you learn.

ThanX
 
I got my tuning issues out of the way and the motor is maknig some serious power now. I am going to break in 21 8 port tomorrow can't wait.
 
not to derail this thead too much but you gyus would recommend a picco .26 over a mach .26 XTM 24.7 and the .21 Hyper 8 port right? I know nothing about any of these engines I'm just looking for suggestions for my next mill...
 
rob the Picco is in fact hard as hell to tune but once you get it right dude this thing just screams man. If you are conisdering the XTM 24/7 pro this motor is definately recommended over that. The mach 26 is a powerful motor and hasn't been proven enough for me. You might ask error401 how the picco compares to the 8 port though.
 
Thanks for the input/support guys. So far I have two tanks at idle and I was shutting it down at about 210 degrees. I have alot of fuel left underneath the truck so I know I'm running rich. I am now trying to run it at about 1/8TH throttle up and down my driveway but I'm not getting the fuel flow and I keep checking the temps and it gets up to about 250 or 260 and then I shut it down. I'm moving the hsn out and when I stop the truck to check the temps,I feel the exhuast and I'm not getting much if any fuel on my hands nor do I get much smoke to speak of. I'm keeping the tank 3/4 full so I don't get the leaning out from the tank. Does anyone have an idea why this is happening? It seems like the where ever I put the hsn, it still runs lean. Also what's the best plug run for break in and what's the best to run after break in? Thanks.
 
Your problem is not with your HSN, it is with your lsn. If you are running hot at 1/8 throttle then your lsn is too lean. Just give your LSN about an 1/8 turn ccw and see what happens with your temp. Same if you are running the first two tanks at idle on a box, if it is too cool then lean the lsn a little bit, if too hot then richen the lsn up a little bit. At idle and 1/8 throttle your hsn is not even a factor. Hence the name High Speed Needle vs. Low Speed Needle. Are you going fast or slow?????

Try it and see what happens.

Glenn
 
Thanks again for the info Glenn. It just seemed odd to me that when I ran it at idle,the fuel was coming out nicely. Then with no change on my settings, I started running and it just seemed to me it leaned out. I am also wondering what to use to seal the engine? Thanks.
 
Go to the auto parts store and get some Permatex Copper silicone sealant. Then just use a very thin layer on the backplate and carb where the o-ring is at the top of the neck.

Glenn
 
Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
you adjust the flywheel so that the piston is up high for cool down.

Did you mean to word this this way? I have read everywhere and anywhere that you put the piston at BDC (bottom dead center), not TDC?
 
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