The pop quiz on nitro engine regarding the high-end only part 2!!!!!!!!!

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newnitro2020

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Hello I have several questions now i'm picking up information new information since then. Healthy high speed needle and different symptoms. One if the needle is lean a little bit does it have a behavior of half cutting off fuel after applying Full Throttle, but not starving it but it's half starving to the point where if you go any further like driving or leaning any further it will become starving because of too much heat build-up?



Symptom number 2, when you tune a nitro engine and if it's lean at the high-end level does it make a weird high-pitched sound where the engine is distorted but not completely similar to what scenario number one is only this time instead of it pinging, it ends up of you just hearing the sound getting distorted a little bit? I did a video and I compared to other things based on studies and I'm not sure if I'm right about these things. But I get this feeling I'm almost close. Or the point where that I might be 100% sort of .







video 2
 
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What is important is to know where your factory start settings are and what is the maximum tune setting you can turn to without leaning you engine out. usually it is 1/2 turn max from factory start setting. But temperature and oil lube content can change this setting. I suggest you get a temp gun and watch the readings as you tune the high speed. It should be 200-235 degrees. This is the safe range. The low should be close to factory setting. When tuned correct it will accelerate quickly but still have a slight rich setting. A good trail of smoke will be clear to see. I suspect by now you have leaned out you engine with tuning all over the place.
 
The engine running at full throttle ,should not have a studder sound ,it should have a smooth
uniform sound! If the engine has that studder sound & the chabacca sound after releasing
the throttle ,then it is too lean!
Engines have to be broken in ,so the engines are set for break-in on a rich setting ,the rich
setting means just more fuel ,it doesn't take much turning on the needles from that break-in
setting to a tuned engine!
Most of those videos on tuning ,the people are walking around the tunes showing what an
sounds & performance does on an engine that is running too rich & too lean in which can
make a video quite confusing!
Maybe a tuning video should only be about tuning an engine off of the break-in process ,then
showing what an engine does when it is out of tune an starving of fuel ,then do a trouble shooting
video on the symptoms on an engine that is out of tune!

An engine out of tune can mean out of tune in two different ways ,one ,could be just out
of tune from optimal performance ,two ,meaning out of tune to were the engine is not
getting enough fuel to the point that it is fixing to grenade ,the engines sounds tells you
that it is starving in two ways ,on throttling & off throttle!
On throttle ,the engine will crackle an studder ,when you release throttle ,it will have that
long drag out chabacca sound ,an when it is too hot to the point where it gurgles after
you shut it off ,the engine is boiling what fuel goes into the crankcase ,then an engine
is too lean an not a proper tune!

Monstertruck was indicating the basic right procedure of not steering away too far from the
factory settings ,because it does not take much needle turning off those settings to tune the
engine for better performance off the break-in settings!
Most people are wanting extreme power out of these engines in which you can only get so
much out of with out going too far!
So ,it is always safe to run the engines on the rich side for longevity of the engine!

The trick is to ,warm the engine up ,an do a few passes ,to adjust your HSN needle where
it gives you a good top end speed with out any over heating ,any sound flaws at full throttle!

The Lsn needle is usually adjusted at the point where there is a sluggish respond while throttling
the engine from idle ,The LSN is also a relation to your idle set screw an air gap as well!
If you have to adjust the Lsn needle in lean ,you may have to close the gap on the idle setting ,
if you have to richen the Lsn ,then you may have to open the idle gap more!

In my opinion ,a temp gauge is not going to tune your engine or tell you anything more or
less ,your engine will tell you what it needs!...:cool:
 
The engine running at full throttle ,should not have a studder sound ,it should have a smooth
uniform sound! If the engine has that studder sound & the chabacca sound after releasing
the throttle ,then it is too lean!
Engines have to be broken in ,so the engines are set for break-in on a rich setting ,the rich
setting means just more fuel ,it doesn't take much turning on the needles from that break-in
setting to a tuned engine!
Most of those videos on tuning ,the people are walking around the tunes showing what an
sounds & performance does on an engine that is running too rich & too lean in which can
make a video quite confusing!
Maybe a tuning video should only be about tuning an engine off of the break-in process ,then
showing what an engine does when it is out of tune an starving of fuel ,then do a trouble shooting
video on the symptoms on an engine that is out of tune!

An engine out of tune can mean out of tune in two different ways ,one ,could be just out
of tune from optimal performance ,two ,meaning out of tune to were the engine is not
getting enough fuel to the point that it is fixing to grenade ,the engines sounds tells you
that it is starving in two ways ,on throttling & off throttle!
On throttle ,the engine will crackle an studder ,when you release throttle ,it will have that
long drag out chabacca sound ,an when it is too hot to the point where it gurgles after
you shut it off ,the engine is boiling what fuel goes into the crankcase ,then an engine
is too lean an not a proper tune!

Monstertruck was indicating the basic right procedure of not steering away too far from the
factory settings ,because it does not take much needle turning off those settings to tune the
engine for better performance off the break-in settings!
Most people are wanting extreme power out of these engines in which you can only get so
much out of with out going too far!
So ,it is always safe to run the engines on the rich side for longevity of the engine!

The trick is to ,warm the engine up ,an do a few passes ,to adjust your HSN needle where
it gives you a good top end speed with out any over heating ,any sound flaws at full throttle!

The Lsn needle is usually adjusted at the point where there is a sluggish respond while throttling
the engine from idle ,The LSN is also a relation to your idle set screw an air gap as well!
If you have to adjust the Lsn needle in lean ,you may have to close the gap on the idle setting ,
if you have to richen the Lsn ,then you may have to open the idle gap more!

In my opinion ,a temp gauge is not going to tune your engine or tell you anything more or
less ,your engine will tell you what it needs!...:cool:
very well said and good advice.
 
To me ,I never really got into fine tuning a nitro engine myself ,I really never had the
reason to ,an to me there really isnt a perfect tune ,however a descent tune would
be on how the engine reacts within the certain power ranges that is tolerable with
in its tuning window!
One thing that some people dont realize in these vids ,is the different products that they are
using as a demonstration on showing how to tune the engine!
People who watch these vids that are trying to figure out on how to tune their engine on these
vids ,what they do is watch several vids an try to match the characteristics of these engines to their
own ,meaning sound an how an engine should react normal! You can't do that!

Here is why ,this vid you just showed ,the engine is a factory high end enhanced racing engine with
matched pipe an header that is spec for racing!
An again ,an you said this many times in your vid yourself ,the buggy is being ran an throttle maxed
out with out a load on it ,an this buggy will never see more than that max or ballistic throttle no more
than 5 to 6 second pulls on a straight away!
The person in this vid is merely giving an idea on how the buggy should react & sound like on those
quick on & off pulls that are used on racing at a track!
They want performance ,but they also dont want any flame outs ,they also want a smooth transition
when they do get on & off throttle!

On a regular engine that is not so high performance ,it should run smoothly or some what just on
a tune setting even if it is on the rich side were there is no need to that close to too lean to where
you stand a chance to ruin an engine for top speed!
Some of the most issues that people have ,is trying to get that transition from idle to full at a quick
pull from the throttle with out hesitation or a flame out!
The most important thing ,is to tune the engine on what the engine can tolerate with out over heating
it with what your driving style is!

The best way to learn about how to tune an engine ,is to find a local person that is willing to take
time out with you on a personal level ,a good place to start is a local track if you have one!

With me ,I had to learn on my own as I was always by myself ,I always just learn to do things an
changes in small increments an keep the engine at a tolerable heat range an tuned my engines
on what the engine can handle with out it giving out some kind of weird sound!

Again ,I am not a pro nor am I going to try to help anyone or try to teach a how to on engine
tuning!
I just wanted to speak out on some of these vids an try to give out some advice that is not
given or mentioned in some of the vids!... :cool:
 
This is all really, really good information man. I like my engines to run properly, but far too often I find myself trying to achieve this perfect tune, perfect idle, perfect idle drop, perfect temps and I end up driving myself nuts instead of just enjoying that 80-90% awesome tune. Crazy thing is I’m running in a parking lot by myself and it doesn’t matter one bit if I crank up that high speed needle one more 1/12 of a turn to go 1mph faster. That being said, there is clearly a correct and decent tune, and a really bad tune as you said. I will never accept a horrible, lean tune with crazy engine tendencies. But I will accept a close enough tune that’s always slightly rich and just enjoy the dang engine. It’s so frustration sometimes because my engines will literally be running fine, but I’m still not satisfied and think it could be better. Really trying to get the thought of “good enough” for the parking lots and if I ever hit the track,then I’ll worry more about getting that “perfect tune”. Anyway, I’m just ranting but I really agree with the stuff you posted above and think it would be great for normal people to read it. Take care Curtis
 
This is all really, really good information man. I like my engines to run properly, but far too often I find myself trying to achieve this perfect tune, perfect idle, perfect idle drop, perfect temps and I end up driving myself nuts instead of just enjoying that 80-90% awesome tune. Crazy thing is I’m running in a parking lot by myself and it doesn’t matter one bit if I crank up that high speed needle one more 1/12 of a turn to go 1mph faster. That being said, there is clearly a correct and decent tune, and a really bad tune as you said. I will never accept a horrible, lean tune with crazy engine tendencies. But I will accept a close enough tune that’s always slightly rich and just enjoy the dang engine. It’s so frustration sometimes because my engines will literally be running fine, but I’m still not satisfied and think it could be better. Really trying to get the thought of “good enough” for the parking lots and if I ever hit the track,then I’ll worry more about getting that “perfect tune”. Anyway, I’m just ranting but I really agree with the stuff you posted above and think it would be great for normal people to read it. Take care Curtis

Damn bro ,you said that shorter & sweeter than me ,I agree a 110 %!... :thumbs-up:

If for some reason that an engine wont except or run half way descent after on going flirting
with any tune you throw at it ,then it has to be another entire different problem!...:cool:
 
Damn bro ,you said that shorter & sweeter than me ,I agree a 110 %!... :thumbs-up:

If for some reason that an engine wont except or run half way descent after on going flirting
with any tune you throw at it ,then it has to be another entire different problem!...:cool:
So the best way to describe that 8 minute video from your response is what day was showing paul & Cody I mean, it was just showing what happens if you need the high speed needle is lean too, and just not going to settle down properly on idle. it'll just idle on high as if it's a low speed or idle issue. Can you tell me if I'm right about this assumption?
So the best way to describe that 8 minute video from your response is what day was showing paul & Cody I mean, it was just showing what happens if you need the high speed needle is lean too, and just not going to settle down properly on idle. it'll just idle on high as if it's a low speed or idle issue. Can you tell me if I'm right about this assumption?


Again I'm not trying to get a perfect tune as far as ridiculously lean but just bear that I have a piece of mine and then just do what everybody else does making a little richer after I get it too run stable fashion.
 
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Damn bro ,you said that shorter & sweeter than me ,I agree a 110 %!... :thumbs-up:

If for some reason that an engine wont except or run half way descent after on going flirting
with any tune you throw at it ,then it has to be another entire different problem!...:cool:
Exactly man. I’ve been doing nitro for a long time, and I’ve only recently really learned how every little thing can affect your tune and performance. Fuel lines old with pinholes that can’t be detected by the human eye? Good bye good tune. Your clutch bell bearings are about to burst into pieces but haven’t done so quite yet? See you later stable idle and running. Oh the glow plug glows bright orange or yellow, starts the car, but in reality the plug is no good because it has some undetectable flaw? So that’s why the engine would start but wouldn’t stay running. Your clutch shoes have .2mm too much wear and no longer grab the clutchbell properly? You can tune your engine all day on the low end and you’ll never get it to launch properly. Throttle linkage out of whack and out of spec? There’s your idle hang problems even though you spent weeks trying to get it tuned( recently happened to me). The point I’m trying to make is, It’s crAzy how literally everything is tied into the tune and performance of your engine, and until someone understand how important EVERYTHING is and how much deeper it goes then just turning needles, well then that’s when you have a reliable, good running nitro engine that starts every dang time, runs great, lasts a long time, and provides enjoyment rather then frustration. I wish I had known all this stuff years ago, I always enjoyed my nitros and did good enough, but it’s just sooooo easy and enjoyable now and if there is a problem, well I know what to look for and how to fix it now.
 
Any body????
If your high speed needle is too lean, it can indeed rev on too long after full throttle runs and make you incorrectly think your low speed needle is too lean. If your low end is good, and crisp, with smoke and no stuttering , and then you punch the throttle full for 4-5 seconds and let off and the revs hang instead of dropping down, your high speed needle is probably a bit to lean! I hope this is what you’re wondering and hope this helps a bit
 
So the best way to describe that 8 minute video from your response is what day was showing paul & Cody I mean, it was just showing what happens if you need the high speed needle is lean too, and just not going to settle down properly on idle. it'll just idle on high as if it's a low speed or idle issue. Can you tell me if I'm right about this assumption?

Ok ,if the pitch changes to a little step up higher sound ,that is were the engine is hitting its maxed power band ,
that could be what he means by ballistic sound!
I dont think there is anything wrong with it hitting that level ,but the engine is never ran at that max power range
for very long periods an one should never do so at no more than that specific tune allows!

Different tuned pipes will alter the sound & performance of an an engine to ,using the wrong pipe can also
give false readings on a tune!
But most RTR's engines ,that factory has already matched the pipe!
I can't see anything wrong with the sound of that engine ,only when he through the tune out of whack earlier!

If the engine doesn't settle down shortly after you get off the throttle then the engine is too lean ,but maybe
not too lean enough to where it will do damage or over heat ,also ,you have to consider that there is no load
on the drivetrain ,if you notice ,the stinger on the pipe is emitting fluid an smoke!

Yes ,a lean high speed needle can cause the engine to not settle down when you get off throttle!
Too lean when you abruptly get off the throttle can cause a flame out!
As I am quite sure the HSN is the main fuel supply!
 
If your high speed needle is too lean, it can indeed rev on too long after full throttle runs and make you incorrectly think your low speed needle is too lean. If your low end is good, and crisp, with smoke and no stuttering , and then you punch the throttle full for 4-5 seconds and let off and the revs hang instead of dropping down, your high speed needle is probably a bit to lean! I hope this is what you’re wondering and hope this helps a bit
It looks like I might be correct. I mean here's the thing most people get this idea on this forms that I'm trying to get my engine to be perfectly tuned. And have the knowledge understanding a how to correct things just simple things that's all. And anybody that lives on this Earth long enough knows that nothing is perfect all the time not even good sealed Plumbing at best to describe it. So I thank you for your answer. I have an idea since two of my videos turn out to be good I have an idea about something i'm thinking about starting a new YouTube channel cuz this channel I got here is mainly for just listing stuff I sell. What do anybody think?
 
Ok ,if the pitch changes to a little step up higher sound ,that is were the engine is hitting its maxed power band ,
that could be what he means by ballistic sound!
I dont think there is anything wrong with it hitting that level ,but the engine is never ran at that max power range
for very long periods an one should never do so at no more than that specific tune allows!

Different tuned pipes will alter the sound & performance of an an engine to ,using the wrong pipe can also
give false readings on a tune!
But most RTR's engines ,that factory has already matched the pipe!
I can't see anything wrong with the sound of that engine ,only when he through the tune out of whack earlier!

If the engine doesn't settle down shortly after you get off the throttle then the engine is too lean ,but maybe
not too lean enough to where it will do damage or over heat ,also ,you have to consider that there is no load
on the drivetrain ,if you notice ,the stinger on the pipe is emitting fluid an smoke!

Yes ,a lean high speed needle can cause the engine to not settle down when you get off throttle!
Too lean when you abruptly get off the throttle can cause a flame out!
As I am quite sure the HSN is the main fuel supply!
Mr. Curtis thank you for the compliments you gave me and everything you've done. Wish me luck cuz I have a feeling I'm onto something. I know there's a lot of people that probably have experience in these things it's just me sometimes things come slow at me. And if I know anybody and anyway I apologize. It's just I tried to be informative to people I like to have an informal informational something I never done you know the fundamentals. Monster trucker user I agree with him when he says once you find that maximum tune make the engine richer and I find that agreeable. Because these engines you want to consume as much lubrication is possible. My motive is to have a peace of mind and so far I'm going to try to do my searches and studies. Any updates I'll post it in a new thread. Does ice take the stuff and a lot of it can be learned not just by me but by any one who wants it.
 
Mr. Curtis thank you for the compliments you gave me and everything you've done. Wish me luck cuz I have a feeling I'm onto something. I know there's a lot of people that probably have experience in these things it's just me sometimes things come slow at me. And if I know anybody and anyway I apologize. It's just I tried to be informative to people I like to have an informal informational something I never done you know the fundamentals. Monster trucker user I agree with him when he says once you find that maximum tune make the engine richer and I find that agreeable. Because these engines you want to consume as much lubrication is possible. My motive is to have a peace of mind and so far I'm going to try to do my searches and studies. Any updates I'll post it in a new thread. Does ice take the stuff and a lot of it can be learned not just by me but by any one who wants it.

Mr. Curtis thank you for the compliments you gave me and everything you've done. Wish me luck cuz I have a feeling I'm onto something. I know there's a lot of people that probably have experience in these things it's just me sometimes things come slow at me. And if I know anybody and anyway I apologize. It's just I tried to be informative to people I like to have an informal informational something I never done you know the fundamentals. Monster trucker user I agree with him when he says once you find that maximum tune make the engine richer and I find that agreeable. Because these engines you want to consume as much lubrication is possible. My motive is to have a peace of mind and so far I'm going to try to do my searches and studies. Any updates I'll post it in a new thread. Does ice take the stuff and a lot of it can be learned not just by me but by any one who wants it.

Thank you Sir!... :thumbs-up:

I admit ,I am still learning myself ,even being involved in Nitro very heavy for the past 15 years + ,
I have had an seen all of these issues on my own stuff ,but for the life of me ,can't tell you how
I corrected the issues from the past!
I had just had that sound that you described on your last post an just remembered it ,I did have
my Hsn a little too lean an had that rev linger longer when I got off the throttle ,an I richened it
back on the Hsn ,that settled the engine down!

I have been hanging around a lot of racers these past 6 months an I myself have learned alot on
how they tune their engines ,but sense I had been already seasoned on nitro stuff an already know
how to do a basic tune on them ,it doesn't take long to learn the feel of a more refiner tune on one,
or learn the secrets of it!...:cool:
 
Ok ,if the pitch changes to a little step up higher sound ,that is were the engine is hitting its maxed power band ,
that could be what he means by ballistic sound!
I dont think there is anything wrong with it hitting that level ,but the engine is never ran at that max power range
for very long periods an one should never do so at no more than that specific tune allows!

Different tuned pipes will alter the sound & performance of an an engine to ,using the wrong pipe can also
give false readings on a tune!
But most RTR's engines ,that factory has already matched the pipe!
I can't see anything wrong with the sound of that engine ,only when he through the tune out of whack earlier!

If the engine doesn't settle down shortly after you get off the throttle then the engine is too lean ,but maybe
not too lean enough to where it will do damage or over heat ,also ,you have to consider that there is no load
on the drivetrain ,if you notice ,the stinger on the pipe is emitting fluid an smoke!

Yes ,a lean high speed needle can cause the engine to not settle down when you get off throttle!
Too lean when you abruptly get off the throttle can cause a flame out!
As I am quite sure the HSN is the main fuel supply!
Most people say that the high-end is the main Supply so yes. I have to agree with you.
 
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