Hi Folks,
while I claim to be trying to contribute at least something useful to this great community, at least every once in a while, I thought of a "refresher" on Approach & Landing procedures with fixed wing aircraft. This should help the newcomer or person trying to get back into the game after the long winter months and should not be limited to any amount of channels.
I'm a Set-Up Pilot.
Means every reaction I want to see from my airplane is the result of prior action from my side. Consistently doing the same thing while flying is crucial and once I had transferred what I learned flying real airplanes to models I got better results all of the time. Being ahead of your plane will help you control, rather than "react".
I'd like to start with a proper takeoff/ launch procedure, which is the second most dangerous situation you will encounter with your aircraft.
Preflight Check:
Rudder, Aileron, Elevator, Throttle, all moving free (!!) and in the proper direction. Engine or Motor have seen one complete cycle of operation and perform well without cut outs or sudden loss of power on electric models.
Surface is flat, clear & free of neighbors house and you have 3-600 ft in any direction of flight. Winddirection & speed checked.
Takeoff & Climb
Slowly advance throttle to full power and maintain directional control with the Rudder. Hold 1/4 - 1/2 up elevator during the ground roll to notice the right rotation speed. Compensate for wind using the ailerons and opposite rudder. Ailerons into the wind, rudder away from it.
Rotate at sufficient speed and get the aircraft settled into a stable climb.
Directional control & climbing should be your utmost concern during the "upwind" leg. In 25-30 feet I reduce power 3/4's or 1/2.
The first turn should be at approximately 40-50 feet with a shallow bank to the left or right, followed by a tap of rudder. I make sure my crosswind leg is somewhat close to 90 degrees off my takeoff course to get a rectangualar pattern.
The Pattern:
While still on the crosswind leg I level the airplane and adjust power to between 1/2 and 1/3 and trim for level flight. The following left or right turn into Downwind happens right after that. While in the turn you will likely need slight elevator or power input to compensate for loss of altitude. During this tailwind section I note the wind and correct the offset with a slight crab angle. I like square patterns because they give you the same setups & enough time, all the time.
At about 45 degrees from my intended treshold for touchdown I start the Approach phase.
Approach:
While turning base I reduce the power to slow the aircraft to a reasonable speed and trim for a light descent. Some people do deadstick landings (power off) some want the engine to pull them to where they go. I'm lazy and keep some power (usually less than 1/3) before I turn into final. Up to here everything is fine. During final the aircraft approaches me almost head-on. Keep in mind, it's coming toward me and if it drifts or rolls to one side you need to react towards the direction it drops the wing. Funny? I've seen many rolls on final... and subsequently spirals that ended in shoeboxes.
Final & Landing:
When You turn into final you want a few things to be in balance and checked.
Approach and Landing are the "first most" dangerous part of your flight.
If your aircraft is trimmed right, you will need slight power adjustments to descent at a lower or faster rate. If the descent rate is high and you assume you will be short, add power first before any elevator, again if it's trimmed right all you need is power. I tend to be aileron lazy while on takeoff and final.
Why? Adverse Yaw affects your aircraft and tourque is a killer in the following situations: High Angle of Attack, Slow Airspeed, High Power or sudden change thereof in case of Go-Around. Your rudder will help you regain control, your ailerons will destroy your efforts (any questions on this... please ask!)
I reduce power to idle about 3-5 feet above the ground maintaining aircraft control simply with rudder. Your flare should be done within equally level (=level, speedbleedoff) and slight nose high (slowdown and touchdown) attitudes.
Barely have I ever seen anyone do what you do with real airplanes and touch down as the stall occurs. The bigger the model, the better off you are judging the speed.
It's hard to discribe a perfect landing, too many variables, but landing and rollout are a breeze if you follow a few simple basics beforehand.
As far as perfect altitude goes: Any altitude that will allow you to bring the airplane in rather than walking the fields to get it after an off airport landing.
It also greatly depends on the wind. A electric model that quits spinning the prop right on upwind will most likely end with a tailwind landing... but once on the downwind you should be able to make it safe.
Now if you fly a 1:2 Extra 300S with a 4 cylinder motor you may want to refer to your experiences, what I described will only work really good with high and low wing trainers and reasonable slower airplanes. Everyone has his own confidence level and comfort zone, if you feel better with a AMA Instructor hooked up to you, please do so!
I have flown about 6 hours since the snow is melting and this worked for me, so I thought I would share.
I own a Piper Cub a Extra 300S, Pitts Special (all left in Germany together with a few gliders & a Big Lift.
My next topic would be stalls and spins if anyone is interested.
-xmas-
while I claim to be trying to contribute at least something useful to this great community, at least every once in a while, I thought of a "refresher" on Approach & Landing procedures with fixed wing aircraft. This should help the newcomer or person trying to get back into the game after the long winter months and should not be limited to any amount of channels.
I'm a Set-Up Pilot.
Means every reaction I want to see from my airplane is the result of prior action from my side. Consistently doing the same thing while flying is crucial and once I had transferred what I learned flying real airplanes to models I got better results all of the time. Being ahead of your plane will help you control, rather than "react".
I'd like to start with a proper takeoff/ launch procedure, which is the second most dangerous situation you will encounter with your aircraft.
Preflight Check:
Rudder, Aileron, Elevator, Throttle, all moving free (!!) and in the proper direction. Engine or Motor have seen one complete cycle of operation and perform well without cut outs or sudden loss of power on electric models.
Surface is flat, clear & free of neighbors house and you have 3-600 ft in any direction of flight. Winddirection & speed checked.
Takeoff & Climb
Slowly advance throttle to full power and maintain directional control with the Rudder. Hold 1/4 - 1/2 up elevator during the ground roll to notice the right rotation speed. Compensate for wind using the ailerons and opposite rudder. Ailerons into the wind, rudder away from it.
Rotate at sufficient speed and get the aircraft settled into a stable climb.
Directional control & climbing should be your utmost concern during the "upwind" leg. In 25-30 feet I reduce power 3/4's or 1/2.
The first turn should be at approximately 40-50 feet with a shallow bank to the left or right, followed by a tap of rudder. I make sure my crosswind leg is somewhat close to 90 degrees off my takeoff course to get a rectangualar pattern.
The Pattern:
While still on the crosswind leg I level the airplane and adjust power to between 1/2 and 1/3 and trim for level flight. The following left or right turn into Downwind happens right after that. While in the turn you will likely need slight elevator or power input to compensate for loss of altitude. During this tailwind section I note the wind and correct the offset with a slight crab angle. I like square patterns because they give you the same setups & enough time, all the time.
At about 45 degrees from my intended treshold for touchdown I start the Approach phase.
Approach:
While turning base I reduce the power to slow the aircraft to a reasonable speed and trim for a light descent. Some people do deadstick landings (power off) some want the engine to pull them to where they go. I'm lazy and keep some power (usually less than 1/3) before I turn into final. Up to here everything is fine. During final the aircraft approaches me almost head-on. Keep in mind, it's coming toward me and if it drifts or rolls to one side you need to react towards the direction it drops the wing. Funny? I've seen many rolls on final... and subsequently spirals that ended in shoeboxes.
Final & Landing:
When You turn into final you want a few things to be in balance and checked.
- Speed OK & Slight Descent
- Fuel/ Time in case of Go Around
- Landing Field is Clear, final look at the wind
- Flaps/ Gear... "If the ground is near, lower the flaps and the gear!"
Approach and Landing are the "first most" dangerous part of your flight.
If your aircraft is trimmed right, you will need slight power adjustments to descent at a lower or faster rate. If the descent rate is high and you assume you will be short, add power first before any elevator, again if it's trimmed right all you need is power. I tend to be aileron lazy while on takeoff and final.
Why? Adverse Yaw affects your aircraft and tourque is a killer in the following situations: High Angle of Attack, Slow Airspeed, High Power or sudden change thereof in case of Go-Around. Your rudder will help you regain control, your ailerons will destroy your efforts (any questions on this... please ask!)
I reduce power to idle about 3-5 feet above the ground maintaining aircraft control simply with rudder. Your flare should be done within equally level (=level, speedbleedoff) and slight nose high (slowdown and touchdown) attitudes.
Barely have I ever seen anyone do what you do with real airplanes and touch down as the stall occurs. The bigger the model, the better off you are judging the speed.
It's hard to discribe a perfect landing, too many variables, but landing and rollout are a breeze if you follow a few simple basics beforehand.
As far as perfect altitude goes: Any altitude that will allow you to bring the airplane in rather than walking the fields to get it after an off airport landing.
It also greatly depends on the wind. A electric model that quits spinning the prop right on upwind will most likely end with a tailwind landing... but once on the downwind you should be able to make it safe.
Now if you fly a 1:2 Extra 300S with a 4 cylinder motor you may want to refer to your experiences, what I described will only work really good with high and low wing trainers and reasonable slower airplanes. Everyone has his own confidence level and comfort zone, if you feel better with a AMA Instructor hooked up to you, please do so!
I have flown about 6 hours since the snow is melting and this worked for me, so I thought I would share.
I own a Piper Cub a Extra 300S, Pitts Special (all left in Germany together with a few gliders & a Big Lift.
My next topic would be stalls and spins if anyone is interested.
-xmas-
Last edited: