Temp tunning for 3.3? help

[bigdog1971]

G'day Guys,
I am a newbe to the whole RC thing I bought a REVO 3.3 for my 5 year old son. (yeh I know too big for him but hey I can have some fun with it til he is big enough to handle it)=devil.
I have blinged it up yesterday with a Trinity Hi Flow pipe and a Hi flow aircleaner. Also converted to the Hitec HS5955TG single steering setup with a Pro-line steering arm.
I am using a hand held temp guage to conduct tuning adj.
Now here are my problems;
1. I keep winding the mixture screw counter clockwise to try to get the temp up around 240F but I can't get it over 200,
a. I am measuring the temp down the glow plug hole
b. The Temp reads higher (220)if I measure it on the outside of the cooling head - where should the temp be taken from?
2. First run the spur gear chewed the side out of the aircleaner pipe! how do you guys stop this happening, I'm thinking some strategicaly placed zippy ties.

Thanks and this is a great site.
Scotty

 

[Rolex]

G'Day, mate. Welcome to RCNT.

There's a special air cleaner neck that's made just for the Revo. When you get a replacement, make sure it's turned at an angle where it won't hit the spur. Zips might help you keep it where you want it.
Temps will be higher if you are measuring near the exhaust manifold.
If you're still breaking it in, be cautious how you adjust the carb. To bring the temp up a bit more, lean the LSN slightly.
At the end of each run, return the piston to the bottom of its' stroke and let it cool completely before restarting it.

Edit: If your turning the main (HSN) adjustment COUNTER clockwise, you will richen the mix, making it run cooler.

 

[olds97_lss]

Also, when measuring down by the glowplug, move the sensor around a little bit as you may be taking the temp of the top of the glowplug or the heater wire itself.

During break-in, a lot of engines won't hit 200F until the 2nd/3rd tank or so. I've only had one that did hit 200 within the first tank of break-in and it was because the mfr's carb settings were WAY LEAN!

 

[bigdog1971]

OK thanks for that Rolex, I now understand that I was turning the HSN the wrong way for a Temp Increase. My bad. So I need to lean it out for higher temp.
This eng should be well broken in by now, has had many tanks of gas thru it in the last 3 months.
So outside for me now to retune..
Thanks
Scotty

 

[Rolex]

Since it's "close" to broken in, let us know how it runs, and we'll get it tweaked for you.

 

[HILLFINGER]

I got this from the Traxxas Pit Pass it may help you out with the filter neck problem.


Glue a small piece of Lexan to the front of the inlet tube to guard the tube from the spur gear.

 

[bigdog1971]

Nice Hillfinger,
Thanks for that I will give that a crack.

 

[HILLFINGER]

Glad I could help.

 

[olds97_lss]

OK thanks for that Rolex, I now understand that I was turning the HSN the wrong way for a Temp Increase. My bad. So I need to lean it out for higher temp.

I'm confused by this...

To "lean it out" means your changing the air/fuel mix to have less fuel. To "richen it up" means your adding more fuel to air. Since the "air" portion of the ratio is relatively unchangeable, it stays at a constant ratio to how much you open/close the throttle...

"Leaning" an engine means you screw the needle in, which takes away fuel. This drives up temps.
"Richening" an engine means you screw the needle out, which adds more fuel. This typically lowers temps.

Ok... I probably just made it more confusing... :constipat

 

[Rolex]

Well, in the case of these nitro engines, 2 things happen. Richening provides more fuel. Some cooling occurs due to evaporation of it's volatile content entering the block. More cooling occurs due to the increased lubrication from the extra oil.

 

[bigdog1971]

The term "lean it out" was not intended to corolate to the direction of the screw being turned.