Team Losi Racing 22X-4 Elite vs Team Associated B74.2 help me decide.

[CJSRCLIFE]

Hi everyone, How's it going? As the title suggests i'm planning to buy a new competition race 1\10 buggy soon. The ones i'm deciding between the TLR (Team Losi Racing) 22X-4 Elite or the Team Associated RC10 B74.2 i want a buggy that performs good in 13.5T stock spec racing at my local track and has good stable parts support now and in the future which is why i'm not interested in the X-Ray, Tekno or Yokomo. Just to let you all know all the race vehicles i have owned so far is a TLR 22T 4.0 and my Associated B74.1.

 

[DavidB1126]

What do the locals run at the track?
Which brand has the most support, parts support and availability near you?
Both TLR and AE are good stock class cars, and mod too. Other brands like the Xray Yoko and Schumacher are more made for mod out of the box setups since they run mostly mod overseas. Tekno is also good for both, but its a bit heavy.

At my local track for normal club racing, 4wd 13.5, you see mostly AE and TLR, and a couple teknos, and we have 1 xray.
Me being a AE guy since I have the .1, id say the .2, but nothing wrong going with the TLR. AE .2 is more current and more updated than the 22x4 Elite, I think.
My uncle has a XB4 (17) and runs a 6.5 in it, still keeps up with other cars at the track. He is running stock setup which Xray kit setups are pretty good. Before around 2020 I believe, they didn't start making Dirt and Carpet versions so before that, the kit setup was based off of where the car should be ran on, in his case, it was carpet. But you can always put your own setup to make it good for other surfaces.
Regardless of what surface you run on, id get the dirt version of the kit/s, that have a center diff, most people at my club run center diffs on carpet with very thick / heavy oils. But nothing wrong if you go with a slipper car. Also, I noticed that if you want to change from a slipper to a diff, or a diff to a slipper, on the AE cars, the mounts are the same, and the center dogbones are the same length, well for the .1 anyways, so either a diff/slipper conversion is a direct drop in.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

What do the locals run at the track?
Which brand has the most support, parts support and availability near you?
Both TLR and AE are good stock class cars, and mod too. Other brands like the Xray Yoko and Schumacher are more made for mod out of the box setups since they run mostly mod overseas. Tekno is also good for both, but its a bit heavy.

At my local track for normal club racing, 4wd 13.5, you see mostly AE and TLR, and a couple teknos, and we have 1 xray.
Me being a AE guy since I have the .1, id say the .2, but nothing wrong going with the TLR. AE .2 is more current and more updated than the 22x4 Elite, I think.

Thanks for the info about the TLR and Associated i was kind of thinking about if i got the B74.2 i would set it up similar to Team Driver Spencer Rivkin's B74.2 except with stock spec esc and motor and Futaba 4pm radio but i might someday upgrade to 7pxr or 10px when i have enough money or when i fell like doing it.

 

[DavidB1126]

Thanks for the info about the TLR and Associated i was kind of thinking about if i got the B74.2 i would set it up similar to Team Driver Spencer Rivkin's B74.2 except with stock spec esc and motor and Futaba 4pm radio but i might someday upgrade to 7pxr or 10px when i have enough money or when i fell like doing it.

the stock spec esc your referring too, is it the Hobbywing XR10 Stock spec? 80A, for 13.5, you could run that esc, but its on the limits, just to be safe Id get a 120A esc, but just my thing.
No need for a high end radio. I use my RC8X for normal fun club racing and gets the job done.
(4PM is a great starter radio)
Now if you get into the competitive side of things like larger regional evens and large events, the pros would probably push you to get a higher end radio like those.
I'm sort of angry at my uncle, he got his 7px from a wraffle, 700 dollar radio back in 2016 and he only paid 40 bucks for it, insane.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

the stock spec esc your referring too, is it the Hobbywing XR10 Stock spec? 80A, for 13.5, you could run that esc, but its on the limits, just to be safe Id get a 120A esc, but just my thing.
No need for a high end radio. I use my RC8X for normal fun club racing and gets the job done.
(4PM is a great starter radio)
Now if you get into the competitive side of things like larger regional evens and large events, the pros would probably push you to get a higher end radio like those.

I was thinking about the XR10 Pro Stock Spec or going with a XR10 Pro G2S 160A i haven't settled on one yet. I already have the 4PM and RC8X which i use for both bashing and racing. Not sure if i'm fully going to convert to the RC8X for racing, bashing and speedruns or buy a nicer Futaba or Sanwa but i might stick with Futaba for racing since i still have lots of receivers for those radios.

 

[DavidB1126]

I was thinking about the XR10 Pro Stock Spec or going with a XR10 Pro G2S 160A i haven't settled on one yet. I already have the 4PM and RC8X which i use for both bashing and racing. Not sure if i'm fully going to convert to the RC8X for racing, bashing and speedruns or buy a nicer Futaba or Sanwa but i might stick with Futaba for racing since i still have lots of receivers for those radios.

I use the XR10 Pro Legacy, which is a little old, but still works and has plenty of settings.
Id stick with the Futaba so you don't get bullied at the track with using a chinesse cheapy radio. Hopefully not, my buddies are always nice and helpful.
I did have a couple issues with my RC8X, but I think I fixed them.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

I use the XR10 Pro Legacy, which is a little old, but still works and has plenty of settings.
Id stick with the Futaba so you don't get bullied at the track with using a chinesse cheapy radio. Hopefully not, my buddies are always nice and helpful.
I did have a couple issues with my RC8X, but I think I fixed them.

I had a few little things with my RC8X the range hasn't been the best definitely not as advertised i might have to update the firmware again when a new update comes out but i don't worry to much since i only use it for bashing anyways.

 

[coldvod]

From what i've read tekno stocks parts for old vehicles and has a very good warranty. I personally wouldn't count them out if you dom't mind paying the price they ask

A big selling point for TEKNO is that they support all their legacy vehicles and offer a 50% Lifetime Warranty if you break anything, which is rare and why they can offer such a deal:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/

 

[Lumikko]

about the TLR and Associated i was kind of thinking about if i got the B74.2 i would set it up similar to Team Driver Spencer Rivkin's B74.2 except with stock spec esc and motor

Whichever car you get, copying the setup sheet of a pro driver is not advisable to begin with and especially if you make changes to it.

The pro setup sheet is made for the track where he was driving, the power he had in the car, and the skills he has. None of the three will apply to you. There is zero reason to believe that setup is even a good starting point for you.

If you want a better source for setups without having to study all of it – understanding setups is very, very difficult – ask for advice from the local fast drivers in your class. They are driving on the same track with the same power as you, and the difference in skill level is smaller.

This is also a hint towards the choice of cars: you can’t go wrong with either. I have the B74.2D. Pick the one you simply like more, consider what others are running in your area. From there, winning will be only a matter of driving and setup skills. The brand of the car won’t hold you back so don’t worry about making a ”wrong” choice. There isn’t one.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

Whichever car you get, copying the setup sheet of a pro driver is not advisable to begin with and especially if you make changes to it.

The pro setup sheet is made for the track where he was driving, the power he had in the car, and the skills he has. None of the three will apply to you. There is zero reason to believe that setup is even a good starting point for you.

If you want a better source for setups without having to study all of it – understanding setups is very, very difficult – ask for advice from the local fast drivers in your class. They are driving on the same track with the same power as you, and the difference in skill level is smaller.

This is also a hint towards the choice of cars: you can’t go wrong with either. I have the B74.2D. Pick the one you simply like more, consider what others are running in your area. From there, winning will be only a matter of driving and setup skills. The brand of the car won’t hold you back so don’t worry about making a ”wrong” choice. There isn’t one.

You're right, Maybe it isn't a great idea to SR's setup since i'll be running on dry indoor carpet and i'll be building it on a budget and only doing the recommended and must do upgrades right out of the box that i can afford.

 

[bill_delong]

Normally I would push TEKNO for someone without a sponsor deal, however we have no information given about the track surface. I would only recommend the EB410 for dirt/clay only... if the OP is racing on carpet/turf then TEKNO would be a mistake.

Another brand to consider if you want to save money is PR Racing, more info here on the older platform which I race it maybe once a year and it was still competitive a year ago:

• PR Racing 401R

If locals are only running AE, then I would recommend getting the same thing that what everyone else is running. The main reason I run PR is because it's equally competitive with AE but is less expensive and easier to get a sponsor deal with

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

Normally I would push TEKNO for someone without a sponsor deal, however we have no information given about the track surface. I would only recommend the EB410 for dirt/clay only... if the OP is racing on carpet/turf then TEKNO would be a mistake.

Another brand to consider if you want to save money is PR Racing, more info here on the older platform which I race it maybe once a year and it was still competitive a year ago:

• PR Racing 401R

If locals are only running AE, then I would recommend getting the same thing that what everyone else is running. The main reason I run PR is because it's equally competitive with AE but is less expensive and easier to get a sponsor deal with

I think the guys at my local track which is a high bite gray carpet run Schumacher, TLR, Yokomo and Associated they have parts in the store for all those brands and it's who i mostly want to stick with those 4 brands and not lesser known brands.

 

[DavidB1126]

I think the guys at my local track which is a high bite gray carpet run Schumacher, TLR, Yokomo and Associated they have parts in the store for all those brands and it's who i mostly want to stick with those 4 brands and not lesser known brands.

My local carpet track, uses the same high bite gray carpet. But its actually grey / EOS (European Off-road Series) carpet from Europe. Sad that they have to close up in 3 weeks. I guess ill be switching back to indoor dirt.
But anyways. Schumacher is based in the UK, and I think with there 4wd buggies, I believe they are still using the old belt drive system, not so sure tho, but all the other manufactures are all shaft drive. Yokomo is based in Japan so the manual is like half English and half Japanese. TLR and AE are US brands. Can't go wrong with any brand. Its purely your choice.

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

My local carpet track, uses the same high bite gray carpet. But its actually grey / EOS (European Off-road Series) carpet from Europe. Sad that they have to close up in 3 weeks. I guess ill be switching back to indoor dirt.
But anyways. Schumacher is based in the UK, and I think with there 4wd buggies, I believe they are still using the old belt drive system, not so sure tho, but all the other manufactures are all shaft drive. Yokomo is based in Japan so the manual is like half English and half Japanese. TLR and AE are US brands. Can't go wrong with any brand. Its purely your choice.

It's sad your local carpet track is closing down soon i wish i had a dirt track near me especially an 1\8 scale outdoor one that would give me way more options for vehicles. I didn't know Yokomo manuals were half English and half Japanese my dad has bought a couple of new ones in the past a YZ-2 Cal3 and a YD-2. I've had a 22T 4.0 in the pastand i liked the way the kit was arranged and no parts on parts trees and it had precut body and wing which i why i'm being drawed towards the 22X-4 Elite but the kit is only currently in stock on Amazon at the moment.

 

[bill_delong]

I think the guys at my local track which is a high bite gray carpet run Schumacher, TLR, Yokomo and Associated they have parts in the store for all those brands and it's who i mostly want to stick with those 4 brands and not lesser known brands.

I agree, stick to a brand with local parts support.

Before you make your decision, start talking to the local fast guys, preferably someone who is sponsored and is regularly on the podium. Chances are this guy has a really good setup for your track and will give you a copy of his setup sheet. Then after you build the car to his spec, he'll test drive it to make sure everything feels right and help you make minor tweaks for your driving style.

If nobody local can produce a setup sheet, then I would encourage you to go with AE, they have the most championship titles over any other brand on the market and I'll give you a decent setup to start with if you decide to go this route.

I am not a pro, but would consider myself one of the "local fast guys" in my area. While I prefer to run wheeler, the 1/10 program is dead in my area and I'm forced to race 1/8 classes where I currently have a sponsor deal with HB Racing so you know I have no bias for any other brand. If the 1/10 program were to come back to my area, then I'd sell my PR and would build an HB D4 EVO3

 

[Horatio]

I'm late to this thread, but thought I'd chime in with my appraisal of this rig before they bring out the new one.

For what you get, I think the price is definitely on point. Titanium turnbuckles. Titanium screws. Titanium shock shafts. It's a super light, purposeful build. Weight distribution options allow for weight forward on Carpet/high traction tracks.

I opted to build mine with the Carbon chassis - for a further 40g weight saving.

It's a great little car. Quality is excellent.

My rig next to TQ Sworkz buggy. This rig broke my car during round one when it was flipped over the track markings onto the straight. I slammed it full chat. It was my only crash of the meeting - but it was severe. Rear centre dogbone popped out and rear shock shaft was bent.

Sworkz would later be retired with a broken centre diff parts and spur.

Whilst I qualified 2nd for the A, I essentially started in Pole due to my peer's retirement.

With a replacement Team Associated shock (later - a pair of TA shocks to ensure consistent handling), it was clear that this rig was going to be tough to beat in the A. Even as a mutant. Many thanks to Russell!

The car is light. Realistically, in 4WD with a battery, no-one breaches the 1588g weight limit. But it certainly doesn't hurt being the lightest buggy. Provided your rig is sturdy enough to finish. Which this rig certainly is.

Close racing. Gotta love buggies as they wind around the track in a train-like manner....

And on to an A final win.

My first 1/10th buggy race in 20 years. Testament to the 22x-4 Elite being a brilliantly drive-able, fast, great handling buggy. All the good bits - all in one box.

 

[PaPa K]

Congrats on the win, well done.

 

[Horatio]

Congrats on the win, well done.

Cheers bud! The car really helped, honestly. It dealt with everything - including being run round the tight carpet track on 5.5t mod. Didn't miss a beat.

I'm still not sure how the rear centre driveshaft came out during the crash - not with carbon everything.

Nor how the rear shock bent, on what was after all, an obvious frontal collision. A severe one at that. I fully expected a list of broken parts - but there was just 1 bent shock shaft.

The car really is faultless. But.

Parts availability in the UK is poor. Most stuff is shadow stock.

I've had no other choice but to buy a second 22X-4 Elite. How terrible! With a custom painted body. Oops....

I now look forward to doing battle - ahem - I mean racing - against the sponsored Team Xray drivers with their new XB4's.....