TC 4 drifter?

[Suicide]

I know Coby has done this. I've decided that when i save up 220 (it may take a while) I'm going to get a TC4 and make a drifter out of it. Any tips i need. What tires to use, how to set it up, any mods i would need to do to it, and anything else i would need to know

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

1.) Get a spool. The diffs don't use nylock nuts on the other side of the outdrive, so a spool is the rear is your best bet. You may be able to fit a nylock nut over the plastic piece to keep the front from loosening up.
2.) Adjustable turnbuckles, for adjusting camber. Not sure if the TC4 comes stock with it. Alu. shaft for durability, and ball bearings for smooth turning parts.
2.) Buy threaded shocks. AE shocks are super small and without spacers they won't work. With threaded shocks you won't lose any spacers and you can fine tune your TC4.
3.) Soft/Medium in the back and Medium/Hard springs in the front. This is best for drifting control. The good thing about AE is that they don't just make Soft, Medium, Hard, etc. They do it by the pound. I usually start from Medium all around, and they way it's setup for me I like it. Stay with around 20wt oil as a start.
4.) Toe in. You want the toe in to be about +2 or +3. Keep the front 0 or +1. You can't adjust this with turnbuckles for the rear, so you will need the special arm mounts that have the numbers on them for the rear. I use +2.5 and works great.

For tires, it really depends on where you're drifting and your budget. If you have the tools, ABS tires all the way. Yokomo makes drift rings made of ABS for their drift tires, so I highly recommend them. The thing about Yokomo is you have to set the camber to where both the rubber part and the ring part both hit the ground. With HPI T-Drifts or ABS, they are good to go with 0 camber.

Setting up is easy to do, you just need the proper tools. Make sure you buy SAE tools, since the TC4 comes stock with SAE not metric. Make sure you buy a turnbuckle tool.

You won't need the FT version. The plastic tub is best for wear n tear and running around. The first time I brought my carbon fiber chassis out, I nearly cried because of the scratches . CF is best for racing. If you do plan to get the carbon fiber chassis, buy the chassis protectant sheet.

Also, if you're a serious drifter, get a setup board. These will give you the most accurate settings for your car. Or you can just buy an RPM camber gauge. Can't help you with the toe in though, I still need help with that .

 

[Suicide]

Thank you

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

No problemo buddy. LMK if you have anymore questions.

 

[Suicide]

like i said it may take me a while. but the todo list is
1 get the rs4 running.
2 sell it.
3 save up 300$ (for the extra parts and stuff).
hey to save a few bucks i can JB weld the rear diff in the place of a spool right

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

Yes, but the main factor is the adding on of weight. You want most of the weight on the front. Having that extra weight in the back will cause your car to slide out more. Trust me, a single ounce makes a difference. You would think those little weights don't help, but once I got some on the front I really noticed a difference. Helps also to keep your whole ride evenly weighed at all four corners. Really crucial too on drifters. Still have yet to find one of those scales.

 

[Suicide]

okay so the jb weld is out

 

[Crunkvilletx]

There are other ways to do it though. I have heard of using bits of fuel line, pieces of rubber bands or hot glue. I've never done it but I've heard about them more than once on other forums.

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

Fuel line only works on diffs that use gears like the TT01. The rubber band trick I'm not sure of, but I believe you use it between the balls and the plate. This is good, but you have to keep the pieces even to make sure the outdrives are perfectly straight. The hot glue trick is also for gear diffs. Might work on the ball diffs, but once you squish the hot glue it's pretty messy to remove.