Tamiya euro truck

[VHennessey]

Looking for set up tips to gain some speed. Guys at my track are hitting 45 laps and I’m stuck at 38. Any tips or pointers?

 

[bill_delong]

45 laps sounds like oval correct?

Can you post a link to the rules for your club?

I've got a Euro Truck to race oval and only got 1 race day on it before the club removed the oval track and never got to race it since, but the silver lining was that I won that race, ha!

I used my 3D printer to install a front locked spool and grinded out the battery tray to fit a shorty LiPo, then I installed ceramic bearings with Trinity Perpetual Motion for lube and direct soldered the wiring from ESC to motor removing the stock connectors. I played around a lot with the spring shims to get the car dialed on corner exit.... the biggest secret was using PB Blaster for sauce!

 

[ahr43]

45 laps sounds like oval correct?

Can you post a link to the rules for your club?

I've got a Euro Truck to race oval and only got 1 race day on it before the club removed the oval track and never got to race it since, but the silver lining was that I won that race, ha!

I used my 3D printer to install a front locked spool and grinded out the battery tray to fit a shorty LiPo, then I installed ceramic bearings with Trinity Perpetual Motion for lube and direct soldered the wiring from ESC to motor removing the stock connectors. I played around a lot with the spring shims to get the car dialed on corner exit.... the biggest secret was using PB Blaster for sauce!

Hey Bill. Found your way to the forum I see. Welcome. 'AC'

 

[Greywolf74]

45 laps sounds like oval correct?

Can you post a link to the rules for your club?

I've got a Euro Truck to race oval and only got 1 race day on it before the club removed the oval track and never got to race it since, but the silver lining was that I won that race, ha!

I used my 3D printer to install a front locked spool and grinded out the battery tray to fit a shorty LiPo, then I installed ceramic bearings with Trinity Perpetual Motion for lube and direct soldered the wiring from ESC to motor removing the stock connectors. I played around a lot with the spring shims to get the car dialed on corner exit.... the biggest secret was using PB Blaster for sauce!

Hey Bill! Nice to see you on this side of the fence

Quick question, how much difference would you say removing the connectors between ESC and motor made? Just curious

 

[bill_delong]

Hey Bill. Found your way to the forum I see. Welcome. 'AC'

Oh hey Arnie, glad to see you here too, I need to get out your way for some oval sometime, been too long!

Hey Bill! Nice to see you on this side of the fence

Quick question, how much difference would you say removing the connectors between ESC and motor made? Just curious

Honestly, it's nothing you can notice initially, but over time the IR will degrade on all connectors so I find it best to remove any potential problem areas immediately, plus in stock racing you want to eliminate as much weight as possible and reducing wire length makes a big difference in shredding weight, plus a very slight improvement in reducing IR being shorter wiring.

 

[Greywolf74]

Oh hey Arnie, glad to see you here too, I need to get out your way for some oval sometime, been too long!


Honestly, it's nothing you can notice initially, but over time the IR will degrade on all connectors so I find it best to remove any potential problem areas immediately, plus in stock racing you want to eliminate as much weight as possible and reducing wire length makes a big difference in shredding weight, plus a very slight improvement in reducing IR being shorter wiring.

Awesome. good to know

 

[ahr43]

Hey Bill. Yeah come by with a car next time you're in Houston. Grasstrack oval is modified into a dogleg now. You'll have to learn how to turn right. I did at it was a painful re-learning experience.

You probably know by now RC Files forum shut down. What it didn't know in contacting David (e.g., AVID) was that in the end he tried to give the platform away. Had I known that I'd have taken it over just to save the Texas drag racing portion. Was trying to recover the drag racing part from the early'00's when I found that out.

Regarding wiring. Most everything coming from the manu's is 12AWG now. Guess they are worst casing it for heavy current loads. Most of my applications would work just as well with 14AWG. Along with being lighter in weight, 14ga is easier to handle for tight spot apps like most mid-motor 2S chassis require.

Only racing I do anymore is against myself. That and I'm too lazy to go through the hassle of re-wiring until absolutely necessary. As a result make-do with the bulkier heavier 12ga.

Good having your knowledge and experience here RCT. It's a good forum. Cheers. 'AC'

 

[bill_delong]

for 1/8 ESC's they are shipping with 10AWG as well, so much fun to solder 10AWG.... said nobody, ha!

 

[Greywolf74]

for 1/8 ESC's they are shipping with 10AWG as well, so much fun to solder 10AWG.... said nobody, ha!

I'm fine with 10AWG, it 8AWG that irks me although I can manage it. I wouldnt want to try anything bigger without going to a bigger iron lol

 

[ahr43]

for 1/8 ESC's they are shipping with 10AWG as well, so much fun to solder 10AWG.... said nobody, ha!

Yeah, Bill. Agree. 12AWG is the limit for my Hakko solder station. Am now seeing some no-prep setups using ( OMG ) 8AWG. 'AC'