To go back to your original concern regarding if the super rooster can handle your setup and we've established that it can. Packs get hot, can't avoid that. Some of the modified motors and many stockers for that matter can drain a pack so fast that alot of heat is generated. If you have a cell that is dead or going dead than that will also add to your heating problem. It's a cause and effect process. As the motor heats up it will draw more causing the ESC to work harder (getting warmer), resulting in a heavier drain on the packs (getting even warmer). Assuming all of your equipment is fully operational and nothing is malfunctioning, there are some things you can do to control, not eliminate, excess heat. Heatsinks, heatsink, heatsinks. I run heatsinks on my Titans and that alone keeps the temps down. Down enough to where I'm not hurting my NiMH packs. NiMH batteries are especially sensitive to heat, both charging and discharging. Keeping the heatsink on your ESC clean and clear of dirt/dust will also helps.
Dirty components can't convect the heat properly and the result is overheating. Fortunately ESC's have thermal shutdowns in them. Just like your hairdryers. When it gets too hot, it will stop working until the temp goes down to normal, and then it will work again. Battery packs don't. If they overheat, irreversible damage will be done. A good pack is expensive, even the non-race, non-matched ones. One other thing before I close this too long of a post. Chuck those Tamiya type connectors if you have them. They rob you of power, they overheat and melt. Upgrade to a Deans type connector. They're inexpensive and their conductive properties are zero in resistance. Good luck.
