Suggestions for 1st hobby grade purchase

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dandm69

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Hi everyone, first time post and new RC user. I have been researching and shopping for a new RC for a little while now and was hoping to get some suggestions, corrections to my current impressions or advice on a new purchase. This will probably be my last RC purchase for a while and want something that will last and I will not get sick of.

First what I have now...a 1/16 380 brushed sct 4wd that I got for $40, and a 1/10 540 brushed 4wd mt. I really enjoy how the smaller car burns out and accelerates quicker but the larger scale is so much smoother and goes through everything. Both of these go under 20mph and I'm already getting sick of them.

What I think I want...budget from $200 - $550 (more if a big difference for slightly more) budget is for RTR car and battery(s) cost. I want it to go at least 40 mph(ish) out of the box with the ability for more down the road. I am only looking for brushed electric 4wd and will be mostly used for bashing at the park, on trails, in the snow (Minnesota) and maybe once a month at a track (not necessarily to participate in races though) I want fast, durable and easy to drive/good handling is a plus. There is a few shops near me and I have no problem waiting for parts online.

Here is what I currently have in mind (please feel free to correct or add on)
-JLB Cheetah 120a 1/10- from what I hear fast and durable but hard to drive - $280
-Team Energy V8sc 1/8 or 1/10- heard durable but don't know much else - $380
-Losi Tenacity-T 1/10 -good brand, don't know much else
-Vkar Racing Bison 1/10- fast and better handling than Cheetah, chassis/durability issues? Looks like there is another version with metal chassis and shock protectors... - $320
-open to the whole Arrma 3s blx line - Fast and light, durable? (Think I would enjoy the senton or typhon the most but who knows lol) - $300 + battery
-also open to Arrma 6s line, but is it worth the $150 over the 3s line? Seems like both go about 50mph out of the box, what is better? I'm assuming more durable but is that it?

my only issue with spending $500 is I don't know how much I will be able to use the RC. But if the durability,speed and handling are all better I am definitely open to it. Just so you know how I operate I look at everything with value. I don't need the fastest or best but if long term I will be better off spending $500 today I'm ok with that, and like everyone enjoy a great deal!

?? Does buying at a store in person give the benefit of warranty support by just stopping in, such as buying Arrma at authorized seller? If so, this is a huge plus as I don't know how much I will be tinkering or wanting to do repairs.

Please feel free to suggest a brand/model as I love reading and thanks in advance !
 
honestly i have to recommend the Arrma lineup, parts are everywhere and easy to come by from multiple vendors, for a first, id say go for either the 3s line up or the newer 4s line. they are quite durable and easy to work on, buying from a shop is nice because for warranty they know it was a first party sale not a private party sale. the 6s line would be nice, but 1/10 is typically cheaper, and are lighter so dont break quite so much in my experience.
 
honestly i have to recommend the Arrma lineup, parts are everywhere and easy to come by from multiple vendors, for a first, id say go for either the 3s line up or the newer 4s line. they are quite durable and easy to work on, buying from a shop is nice because for warranty they know it was a first party sale not a private party sale. the 6s line would be nice, but 1/10 is typically cheaper, and are lighter so dont break quite so much in my experience.

Thanks for the quick reply! I was almost set on the 3s line but then was wondering if the 6s was worth the extra cash... Any model of the 3s line that you would recommend?
 
Thanks for the quick reply! I was almost set on the 3s line but then was wondering if the 6s was worth the extra cash... Any model of the 3s line that you would recommend?
so far the granite, and the typhon, are the only models I've seen in person, same platform though. imo granite as it has more ground clearance, doesn't bounce around so much.
 
Arrma 6s line is about as tuff as RTR RCs get! Very worth the price and parts are both cheap and easily accessed.
I have found a few deals used with lipos and charger. Might be worth looking at. Most people have determined the V4 models radios are junk but a 40.00 replacement will resolve that. Although it sounds like you have enough RCs that you may have those parts already.

The 3s and 4s lineup are noted with some annoyances like leaking shocks, weak a-arms, and slipper clutch issues.
 
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Arrma 6s line is about as tuff as RTR RCs get! Very worth the price and parts are both cheap and easily accessed.
I have found a few deals used with lipos and charger. Might be worth looking at. Most people have determined the V4 models radios are junk but a 40.00 replacement will resolve that. Although it sounds like you have enough RCs that you may have those parts already.

Any thoughts on what the best 6s model is? Handling wise , not easy to flip over, speed...to me it seems the senton would be the best all around rc although the typhon is fast as heck and I'd imagine would be a ton of fun at a track.
 
Any thoughts on what the best 6s model is? Handling wise , not easy to flip over, speed...to me it seems the senton would be the best all around rc although the typhon is fast as heck and I'd imagine would be a ton of fun at a track.
I suppose that answer is subjective and you would get many answers on this but I will give you my opinion.

The Senton is very narrow. It is actually the most narrow of all the 6s lineup. Many guys report that it traction rolls often. Also the suspension travel is rather short so it wouldn't be the best for jumps/bashing. It does make a good speed rig if that is all you want to do.

The typhon is great and due to its short chassis is very tuff. It is not going to do flips but will do just about anything else. If you want to spend time at the track this may be your best bet. Larger tires with some mass would get it to flip for general bashing.

Talion model has short suspension travel (check out the front shocks) but will legitimately do 70mph with the speed pinion installed. They make great bashers. Seems to be some middle ground between a typhon and Kraton.

Notorious and Outcast are highly unstable around 50+mph short wheelbase and high center of gravity.

I went with the Kraton 6s personally (v4 model) Out of the box on 6s it is very capable in wheelies, Jumping/backflips etc. Can do any stunts that the Outcast/Notorious will do. Due to the longer chassis it is far more stable at higher speeds. With the 15t speed pinion installed I hit 65mph (best) and more typically hit 60-61 mph.
With the HR spool installed running 37/34 gearing and GRP street tires I hit 94.5 mph.
All it takes is swapping back in the center diff and 15t pinion, put the original wheels/tires back on, and instantly I am an off-road basher again. The longer chassis (think of levers) can be prone to bending if you are doing 20 ft jumps but the aftermarket has that covered with braces and chassis upgrades.

Check out the A-Arms.... if that doesn't say stability at speed I don't know what would:
119204


I have been blown away with what it is capable of!
 
I suppose that answer is subjective and you would get many answers on this but I will give you my opinion.

The Senton is very narrow. It is actually the most narrow of all the 6s lineup. Many guys report that it traction rolls often. Also the suspension travel is rather short so it wouldn't be the best for jumps/bashing. It does make a good speed rig if that is all you want to do.

The typhon is great and due to its short chassis is very tuff. It is not going to do flips but will do just about anything else. If you want to spend time at the track this may be your best bet. Larger tires with some mass would get it to flip for general bashing.

Talion model has short suspension travel (check out the front shocks) but will legitimately do 70mph with the speed pinion installed. They make great bashers. Seems to be some middle ground between a typhon and Kraton.

Notorious and Outcast are highly unstable around 50+mph short wheelbase and high center of gravity.

I went with the Kraton 6s personally (v4 model) Out of the box on 6s it is very capable in wheelies, Jumping/backflips etc. Can do any stunts that the Outcast/Notorious will do. Due to the longer chassis it is far more stable at higher speeds. With the 15t speed pinion installed I hit 65mph (best) and more typically hit 60-61 mph.
With the HR spool installed running 37/34 gearing and GRP street tires I hit 94.5 mph.
All it takes is swapping back in the center diff and 15t pinion, put the original wheels/tires back on, and instantly I am an off-road basher again. The longer chassis (think of levers) can be prone to bending if you are doing 20 ft jumps but the aftermarket has that covered with braces and chassis upgrades.

Check out the A-Arms.... if that doesn't say stability at speed I don't know what would:
View attachment 119204

I have been blown away with what it is capable of!

Thanks, this helped a lot. I don't see myself doing big jumps anytime soon but my son (almost 2) loves going to the track. I think the talion will be the route I go with 6s, but may choose the kraton if i go 4s
 
Hah, how times have changed. People go into the hobby with a 4 cell lipo brushless beast ? when I got into the hobby, I started with a brushed rustler 2wd way back in 1995. That thing went like 20.
 
Thanks, this helped a lot. I don't see myself doing big jumps anytime soon but my son (almost 2) loves going to the track. I think the talion will be the route I go with 6s, but may choose the kraton if i go 4s
Just an FYI these 6s models are pretty lame on 4s. Something in the ESC tuning I suspect.

Also parts are interchangeable so you can always make that Typhon a stretched chassis or swap in A-Arms and axle shafts to make it a kraton etc...

Be sure to pick up some good MIP hex wrenches. Arrma factory assemblers like their lock-tite :)
 
Hah, how times have changed. People go into the hobby with a 4 cell lipo brushless beast ? when I got into the hobby, I started with a brushed rustler 2wd way back in 1995. That thing went like 20.
In some ways I'd say going with a new 6s Arrma is too much RC for someone new to the hobby or has been out for a long time. BUT honestly the cost of replacement parts is great and its one of the toughest RTR cars out there. Both are important things for someone new. I wish someone had steered me towards Arrma a long time ago.
One example of many: I spent $140 on a set of 4 MIP axles for the Slash 4x4 and still not as strong as OEM Arrma axles are (which go for $40 on eBay for all 4)
 
In some ways I'd say going with a new 6s Arrma is too much RC for someone new to the hobby or has been out for a long time. BUT honestly the cost of replacement parts is great and its one of the toughest RTR cars out there. Both are important things for someone new. I wish someone had steered me towards Arrma a long time ago.
One example of many: I spent $140 on a set of 4 MIP axles for the Slash 4x4 and still not as strong as OEM Arrma axles are (which go for $40 on eBay for all 4)
For sure, arrma stuff is tuff as hell. Also $140 for mip axles that’s rape
 
In some ways I'd say going with a new 6s Arrma is too much RC for someone new to the hobby or has been out for a long time.
agree with this, especially new to the hobby, 6s is way to much power, for general bashing, if you hit 60-70 mph you are going to break something... or lots of things, or just everything, id start with something slower. even just get a 3s blx rig, and use nimh batteries at first to learn it. start slow and work on getting faster.
I've learned the hard way mainly on nitro rigs, that letting someone that is brand new run it, they are going to crash (I'm not saying that being new is bad in any way, we all started somewhere) and its going to break alot of parts when they are not familiar with a car and head on a car tire, pole, tree, curb, or house. i do like spektrum controllers as they had the throttle limiting function as it was a really easy way to learn how a car handles and as you get more comfortable, make it from 50% throttle to 75% then to 100%. (think the newer DX2E still has that function.
i do recomend 1/10 as you can run them in a lot more locations, 1/8 is big, and requires alot bigger of an area.
RC is an addiction and its not "if" you get a second car, its when lol, so second one if you feel the need could always be the bigger 1/8 6s models lol
 
agree with this, especially new to the hobby, 6s is way to much power, for general bashing, if you hit 60-70 mph you are going to break something... or lots of things, or just everything, id start with something slower. even just get a 3s blx rig, and use nimh batteries at first to learn it. start slow and work on getting faster.
I've learned the hard way mainly on nitro rigs, that letting someone that is brand new run it, they are going to crash (I'm not saying that being new is bad in any way, we all started somewhere) and its going to break alot of parts when they are not familiar with a car and head on a car tire, pole, tree, curb, or house. i do like spektrum controllers as they had the throttle limiting function as it was a really easy way to learn how a car handles and as you get more comfortable, make it from 50% throttle to 75% then to 100%. (think the newer DX2E still has that function.
i do recomend 1/10 as you can run them in a lot more locations, 1/8 is big, and requires alot bigger of an area.
RC is an addiction and its not "if" you get a second car, its when lol, so second one if you feel the need could always be the bigger 1/8 6s models lol

My understanding is that there is a throttle function on the 6s arrma rc's, is that not correct? So to start I can always put it at 50% and go up as I get more comfortable. If I get the talion I would get a 6s lipo, I would get the 4s lipo for the 4s version of the kraton.
 
My understanding is that there is a throttle function on the 6s arrma rc's, is that not correct? So to start I can always put it at 50% and go up as I get more comfortable. If I get the talion I would get a 6s lipo, I would get the 4s lipo for the 4s version of the kraton.
there could be, i know they switched out their controllers to spectrum units.
Alot of people do run the 6s line on 4s and prefer it, you can always get a lower cell count battery (2s=2 cell = 7.4V, 3s=3 cell=11.1V 4s=4 cell=14.8v, 6s= 6 cell=22.2V), but dont use a higher cell count battery.
6s is loads of power, just keep that in mind is all I'm saying.
 
My understanding is that there is a throttle function on the 6s arrma rc's, is that not correct? So to start I can always put it at 50% and go up as I get more comfortable. If I get the talion I would get a 6s lipo, I would get the 4s lipo for the 4s version of the kraton.

The factory v4 radio is problematic with that throttle control switch. Forward power in the esc is 0-100% brake is 0-50% (default may be something like 37%. when you dial the TX down to 50% reverse is gone. It is a 15.00 radio system and needs replaced before the car is ever used. The older V3 model came with the Tactic radio system and people love it!

The 6s model on 4s power is very tame and ideal for learning.
I still stand by the 6s models due to their durability over the lower models.
 
The factory v4 radio is problematic with that throttle control switch. Forward power in the esc is 0-100% brake is 0-50% (default may be something like 37%. when you dial the TX down to 50% reverse is gone. It is a 15.00 radio system and needs replaced before the car is ever used. The older V3 model came with the Tactic radio system and people love it!

The 6s model on 4s power is very tame and ideal for learning.
I still stand by the 6s models due to their durability over the lower models.

Would it just be better to buy a v2 or v3 with the older radio?

Found a deal on a 2017 6s outcast for $400

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-...YWfR1ZYyo-f8Zoh1eWDcat-dPvV9x784aAiHkEALw_wcB
 
Would it just be better to buy a v2 or v3 with the older radio?

Found a deal on a 2017 6s outcast for $400

https://www.amainhobbies.com/arrma-...YWfR1ZYyo-f8Zoh1eWDcat-dPvV9x784aAiHkEALw_wcB

That is a pretty good deal considering the V4 Kraton is $549.00
The only big improvement that people have liked on the new model was the re-design of the motor mount/center diff. The center tower to tower brace is controversial at best. (some like it some don't)
Over all the older models with the Tactic radio is a great option.

Double check which radio system it comes with Not all models are on V4 some are on V3 with the new radio....
Tactic = good
Spektrum = bad
(not all Spektrum radios are bad but this RTR version was)

Your next recommended discussions should be Battery, Charger, and tools. (assuming its cheapie stuff you have for your brushed SCT)
 
That is a pretty good deal considering the V4 Kraton is $549.00
The only big improvement that people have liked on the new model was the re-design of the motor mount/center diff. The center tower to tower brace is controversial at best. (some like it some don't)
Over all the older models with the Tactic radio is a great option.

Double check which radio system it comes with Not all models are on V4 some are on V3 with the new radio....
Tactic = good
Spektrum = bad
(not all Spektrum radios are bad but this RTR version was)
Its funny because the new spektrum systems for arrma rigs run futaba communications (FHSS iirc).
 
I ran my outcast 6S on 4S for the first 6-7 months and it was fun. Of course, once you try 6S, you don't want to run 4S anymore.

Out of the 8 trucks I own, if I had to give them all up but one, I'd keep the outcast. If your worried about stability at speed, the kraton is a better option. The outcast gets pretty sketchy on 6S at WOT, but is pretty manageable on 4S. Just know that the chassis is soft, so it will bend when you start airing it out. There are upgrades to avoid that, or help with it down the line.

If their arrma's 4S lineup ran steel axles and a center diff, I'd get one of those, but they don't, so I won't even toy with the idea.
 

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