Last Summer I upgraded my Nitro Rustler to the 2.5R engine. I ran it for a while and had loads of fun with it, and even tried racing it at a local track (which I sucked at, but it was fun). I then suffered a torn ligament in my knee (not related to running my truck), and the truck sat in the garage. Well, for several weeks life sucked. My knee got better and I went back to work and life pretty much returned to normal. But, I'd kind of lost interest in my truck. Now it's been a year and I want start running my truck again. I sprayed some WD-40 in the cylinder before I put it away, and it turned over fine today. I haven't tried starting it yet. Are there any precautions I need to take before I try starting it?
-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
Starting an engine after a year
- Thread starter jared1970
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
As long as your plates are still sealed, and there is no binding, you should be fine. If you really want, a drop of ARO in the cylinder before starting to lube things up a bit but you probably don't need to worry about it. A check for corrosion first is a must though.
ThunderTiger
Hardcore RCTalk User
Without throwing a spanner in the works, this is what i would do, it is also something i do after every 5-6 hours of running.
1) Take the engine apart and check for corrosion in the back (main) bearing and on the crankshaft counter-weight
2) drop some 3-in-1 into the back bearing, onto the bottom bearing of the connecting rod and the gudgeon pin (the pin that holds the piston to the connecting rod).
3) Replace the back plate using a suitable air tight sealer with nail varnish as a thread lock on the bolts.
4) Take off the clutchbell and check the clutch shoes and springs for wear and replace both if springs and shoes if necessary (always replace both at same time)
5) check the clutch bearings for wear.
6) while the clutch bell is off, spin the engine over (without glow plug fitted) at a low speed using a battery drill on the SG shaft in front of the clutch. This will help get the oil around the bearings.
7) Fit new bearings to the clutch bell
8) Re-fit the engine ensuring a thread lock is used on the main engine mounting bolts.
I also think that this is good practice, but i am open to being told that I am wrong.
1) Take the engine apart and check for corrosion in the back (main) bearing and on the crankshaft counter-weight
2) drop some 3-in-1 into the back bearing, onto the bottom bearing of the connecting rod and the gudgeon pin (the pin that holds the piston to the connecting rod).
3) Replace the back plate using a suitable air tight sealer with nail varnish as a thread lock on the bolts.
4) Take off the clutchbell and check the clutch shoes and springs for wear and replace both if springs and shoes if necessary (always replace both at same time)
5) check the clutch bearings for wear.
6) while the clutch bell is off, spin the engine over (without glow plug fitted) at a low speed using a battery drill on the SG shaft in front of the clutch. This will help get the oil around the bearings.
7) Fit new bearings to the clutch bell
8) Re-fit the engine ensuring a thread lock is used on the main engine mounting bolts.
I also think that this is good practice, but i am open to being told that I am wrong.
