Okay three things.
1. Too nice of a car to give up on because you're short of patience. Nitro takes a lot of it, more than your money, as you will see even after you get it running. Don't throw in the towel.
2. To echo Heartbreak's post - indeed, you may have it lined up with the flywheel, but at any point does the starter box wheel touch the chassis? You will be able to tell if you see any skidmarks on the chassis around the hole. This is VERY IMPORTANT - if the wheel touches the chassis at ALL, it will stall the wheel and act like the box motors are not strong enough. You may need to adjust the depth that the lid goes down to prevent it from touching.
3. Basic stuff- I don't see this mentioned - turn on all electronics, remove the air filter and look in the carb. With your finger off the throttle, do you see a slight opening in the carb? Work the throttle from full throttle to brake, when it gets to neutral and all the way to brake the barrel or slide should STOP and hold the carb open a tiny bit, about the thickness of a credit card. If this is not the case, turn the idle screw in a little at a time until you have the opening. It won't start without air.
The most common reason, I might add, of start troubles is flooding by trying to prime the engine. You only need to bring the fuel UP TO the carb before trying to start - let the starter box and engine do the rest.
BTW you made a wise choice with a non-pullstart. The engine sits lower, lowering the center of gravity, and pull starts are actually quite fragile and break very easily, especially when you get frustrated.
