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Solid center differential for buggys

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D@NZ

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I am curious if any of you pros know of a solid center diff. for buggys? Also, would like to hear your opinions on ths type of setup? Sorry I cannot figure out how to post a picture of what I,m talking about, Item #3134174506 on E-Bay has a pic of one for an ofna monster pirate. Seems like it would be a lot cheeper than a torsen diff.
 
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why not fill it up with diff lock oil? thats like 8$ or i hear silly puddy will make a lock too.. and that is 50 cents out of a gumball machine.. me myself i filled it with 5k oil, and 3k on front and rears to try it out..
 
I run the following oil setup and have GREAT results. (good oil is NOT cheap!)

3,000 weight oil in the front
7,000 weight oil in the center
1,000 weight oil in the rear
(I think HumboltBlazer hooked me up with this setup and I've been happy ever since!)

I have a hard time wanting to LOCK the diffs completely. With the amount of power going down the drive-line, you want the diffs to do their job. I have conventional diff's in my buggy now. Although the Torsen diff's have some 'bling' appeal. I will stick with my current setup until I find a valid reason to drop the cash on an upgrade. Kyosho just makes things that good!

What are you trying to get the buggy to do?
 
In my hyper 7 pro I run 7000 in the front, 1-3000 in rear and center torsen diff. I ran the conventional center diff today with 5000 oil in it and I lost so much punch that i had with my torsen, but I did gain steering. I went back to the torsen and liked it much better and am contemplating a torsen for the front. The are expensive but worth it in my opinion.
 
Thanks for the replies

Thanks for the replies. I,m not trying to do anything in particular, just a newbee trying to learn as much as i can. Thinking about a center torsen to get a hands on feeling of how the buggy performes. I bought a used 9.5 and have never been into the diffs. I'll try replacing the oils with your suggestions, and play from there.
 
I understand that whatever oil weight you choose to use in the center diff will affect both front and rear equally. I trying to figure out why most all the setups I have seen recommend that the front diff use a heavier weight, sometimes much heavier than the rear. My only guess is something to do with having a better hook-up with the steering, coming off a corner, front wheel drive sort of thing. I guess if the rear hooked up better than the front you would get more spin outs. Any of this make sense ? I won a bet with an engineer friend of mine that they make 100,000 weight gear oil. Well, needless to say he lost. Should be against the law to call it 'oil'. Some of those weights are closer to being a solid.
 
5,000 weight in the middle may be too light and why you lost your torque. Pump it up to at least 7k and you should be fine.

I'm still experimenting with front and rear oil weights so I'm not going to recommend anything for certain. However, 3k in the front and 1k in the rear sounds logical to me. With 1k the diff can unload easier, thus, giving you more 'on power traction' imo. The 3k in the front will slow it up a bit from unloading and help in pulling out of the turns. I dont hit my throttle until half way through the turn if possible. So I want a little front wheel drive.

Its such a fun hobby isnt it?!?!?
 
You touch on the main thing that makes me think I need a torsen diff. There are so mant factors to traction and control when you talk about a 1/8 buggy. It gets hairier when you move up from a powerful .21 sports engine to a insane .21 race engine. Tires are the obvious first thing when you think power to the ground, but they by them selves can only do so much. Shocks deffinetly play a role so dont leave that out of the equation. As I miander to my point you need to first think of the powersource itself. The engine. When talking a sick race engine and there are many flavors of these but a lot of pro's and club racers alike run restrictors and not for just the fuel consumption reasons either. It evens your power ban to actually put it to the ground. Next is the main diff. When playing with different oil setups trying to see the difference the first time I changed it 2k and it was crazy different so oil weight or viscosity matters so much when putting traction to the ground...but on pavement you will say yeah I dont have the punch I used to and thats all because of traction my friend. I will quote a really good article that some other guy on RCFILES.COM posted in a thread there and it can be found here
http://www.rcfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2402 I make myself giggle.
 
well... i think that i am at the receiving end of the joke, but i don't get it. i guess i'm just stupid.:breakdown

L8r,
Garrett
 
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