Slipper clutch vs center diif

[JR R]

A little history leading up to my question. I bought the Stamped 4x4 bl-2s 2 or 3 months ago. First thing I did was upgrade the motor to the vxl 3s. Still ran it on 2s due to LHS hours and funds/work schedule. This is my first RC, and my LHS recommended it as a first purchase. Broke a few parts, then stripped spur gear. Went back with a steel one and put it in myself. Then stripped pinion (probably my fault, all I could get at the time was a 53t, stock was 54 and I used the spacer instead of setting mesh with paper). Got it back together and it no longer wheelie along with making a loud racket. Assumed it was the slipper so took it back apart and inspected and tightened. At this point went to 3s battery, still didn't perform well and still had the noise. Discovered the motor was trashed and replaced it. Still doesn't wheelie .slipper tightened all the way and backed off 3/4 turn. Still not getting the power to rear wheels which I'm assuming is a stripped rear differential. Front tires expand with full throttle, but rears don't. They do somewhat spin when taking off full throttle. Anyway I've ordered upgraded diffs and waiting for arrival. The truck seems like it's gonna be a beast on 3s, which brings me to my question. I don't really try to jump it. It mostly runs on rough terrain (grass in the pasture), some crushed concrete, and occasional asphalt. That being said, would I get any benefit from changing from slipper to center diff, or would it not be worth the expense? I'm completely brand new to this so all advice will be appreciated.

 

[fstnd]

If you're looking for wheelies and driving on rough terrain, a center diff is not really the solution unless you use extremely thick oil, which still doesn't seem realistic to me. I think an upgraded rear diff is indeed the better way to go

 

[xjtorc]

A center diff with will help take the shock out of the drivetrain and will prevent you from tearing up front and rear diffs on 3S. Lots of running on 3S will wear out the slipper. A diff would take MUCH longer to wear out.

 

[JR R]

If you're looking for wheelies and driving on rough terrain, a center diff is not really the solution unless you use extremely thick oil, which still doesn't seem realistic to me. I think an upgraded rear diff is indeed the better way to go

Thanks. Not really so much about the wheelies just for doing them. That's just what brought my attention to the power loss to the rear end. Even on 2s it would slam the wheelie bar before I started having the problems. My hobby shop told me when I first purchased it that the only difference in the bl2s and vxl was the motor and radio, and the bl2s was actually tougher. After the problems I'm having, I'm thinking not. But repairing it is teaching me a lot.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Is the pinion gear that you installed the same ones that came out? The same # of teeth?
It sounds like you might have unknowingly changed your gear ratio. It could give you less low end power. Could have helped fry your motor too.
Whenever you make gear changes, its important to monitor the temps on your motor and esc. If you are overheating, look into changing that gear ratio again.
Prob should start with determining if your rear diff has damage and repair that before you worry about trying to do wheelies.
The purpose of a slipper clutch is to prevent all the power from slammimg the drive systems all at once. They won't prevent a wheelie all together but if adjusted correctly, should not allow the truck to back flip either.
Also, the method of tightening the slipper all the way and then backing off 3/4 turn to set... where did that come from?
https://traxxas.com/support/How-Adjust-Slipper-Clutch
Check your slipper pegs for damage/wear as well.
If you have other weird noises and parts that aren't moving smoothly, before you buy another motor or anything else, take the truck apart and diagnose the actual issue(s) first.

 

[JR R]

I know the spur is 53t. Not sure about the pinion. I was at the hobby shop running my other truck on their track and decided to try the 3s in this one when the pinion stripped, so I just let them replace the pinion since I was there and they didn't charge any labor. The other motor ate bearings and on the recommendation of the hobby shop tech I replaced it instead of rebuilding. He said the way it ate the bearings, it would be trashed internally. I'm not just throwing parts at it. I have tore it down and looked at the parts, except for the diff. Spur and pinion good, slipper doesn't show any wear or scoring on pads or plates, axles not stripped. So I figure all that leaves is the rear differential. It did hit stage 1 thermal shutdown after about 3 minutes when I first tried it on 3s. Installed motor and esc fans,which seems to have taken care of that problem. As far as the wheelies, they are cool, but not so much just wanting a wheelie machine. The fact it would do a back flip before, then all of a sudden won't even spin the rear alerted me there's a problem. Probably getting 95% of the power to the front right now. I do have the cobra racing front and rear diffs ordered and waiting for shipment now. Which brought me to my original question whether to go to a center diff while I had it apart.

 

[JR R]

I got the 3/4 turn back off from guys posting on a traxxas page on Facebook. On the stampede 4x4 you have to remove the slipper clutch to adjust it.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ok. I hope you have good luck with those Cobra diffs.
Another member here was unlucky with them.

Were your original diffs damaged or no? I am pretty persistent and will chase down the exact cause of a problem. Process of elemination doesn't show how, when or why it broke.
No lube, broken gears, worn parts etc...

Heat def destroys brushless motors. A temp gun is a cheap investment and you can monitor your esc and battery temps with it too.

Lol@the slipper adjustment. I should have expected no less from Traxxas. The instructions I linked don't show 2wd and 4wd differently.
The action of the slipper is still where I'd be focusing and not so much getting it set to 3/4 turns I think. I don't know how involved it is to adjust on your truck tho.
Whatever I did, I'd source better info than from a guy on fakebook.
What does your manual tell you to do?

Is there any chance oil got into your slipper?

You def need to verify your gear ratio. Find out what pinion is in it. It might be no issue at all but if its way off, you need to fix that too.

 

[JR R]

The link you sent did show the 4x4. Fully collapse spring, then back off 1 turn, so I'm pretty close on that. Slipper is dry and clean with the aluminum pads. Not too much of a pain to get to. 4 screws and pull rear assembly, then pull the Slipper assembly. I'll have to pull the motor and country the teeth on the pinion. I know the spur is 53t. I think he told me the new pinion was 16t, buy not sue on that. Stock for the bl-2s was 14t pinion, 54t spur. Not sure on the vxl, but I'd assume that would be the same. I've basically just made the bl-2s into a vxl, except for upgrading to the tqi radio system. Should have just spent the extra 200 and got the vxl originally, but this is my first experience with RC so I didn't know and was wanting hobby class on a budget. LOL I already have a couple of high maintenance toys, a Harley and a boat.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Ok, I see the 4x4 part. I guess I need to see that set up to follow how it works entirely. Its not the same as the jato or revo. Thats what I have.
If the clutch got gunked, its not gonna work right no matter what you adjust.
Hopefully the slipper is in adjust and your diffs will fix it up and get you going.
I don't know what the right ratios are in this truck either but I am 100% sure that changing ratios could cause your issues of temp and low power.
Returning to stock might be a good idea just until you get the truck running right. If you still eant to change after that, you can take temps off the stock set up so you know how each spur or pinion change affected everything and if its way off from where it should be.
RC is an adventure like everything else. Half the fun is building, tinkering and tricking your rigs out! No $125/hour diagnostic fees either!
I feel like each rc will have a 'best set up'.
Trying to get that balance of peak performamce and reliability is the whole trick. THAT is what I like to do!
You could experiment with tires, suspension, gearing etc and have just as much fun with that truck as a VLX, BLX, Super turbo lazer 3... whatever the name isn't important as what can be done with it once its on the bench. I think its more fun sometimes to take a base truck and make it WAY better that the "best" factory truck.
Buying a fast car is ok but building one is what makes me happy I guess.

I had an 85 FXEF... HD does NOT stand for Harley Davidson. Its the Hundred Dollars or more you're going to need EVERY TIME you need a part!
I also had a couple Checkmates and Bajas.
Boat, noun, Hole in water that you throw money into.
Ex. I used to be rich but now I own a boat.

 

[JR R]

LOL That's for sure! My other RC is the Jato vxl. Haven't messed with it much. I got it because I'd like to try my hand at racing when I get better at controlling them, and my hobby shop guy said it would be a good entry level buggy for me without spending 1500 on one. And I could still be competitive with it.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I have really only seen Slash run on a track. I don't know how the new Jato will stack up.
You should get to the track to find out about the classes and regulations. Find a way to get on the track!
You're only gonna get better by practicing so...
Be careful not to go modding the hell out of your truck and then find out that only the 'box-stock' trucks can run.
@DavidB1126 is a racer who owns a heavily modded Slash that he can't race at his track.
If you get up into the drivers stand and aren't challenged and having fun with your new, stock rc, you HAVE to be doing something wrong!
Novice and stock class racing can be a bit frustrating if the (also novice) guy beside you is hitting you a lot but its also a lot of fun and a great way to learn how to race without worrying that YOU will be smacking into someone's $3000 carbon fiber dream machine RC!
If you have tracks nearby, start going to races and talking to ppl.
The guy at the hobby shop might be right but the folks at the track KNOW what cars are running and whats winning. Most racers are real nice folks who love to talk about rc and about their cars. It won't be hard to get info and make friends.

 

[JR R]

Forgot to say, the hobby shop owns the track and he also races on it. They run the 4x4 buggies on 4s. That's why I was comfortable getting the Jato 4x4 vxl. That's also the only track close to me. There's another one in Houston, but indoor and a pretty far drive,plus they pretty much only allow cars sold and spec'd by them. Motor, esc, tires etc.

 

[JR R]

Tore it down and found output shaft gears stripped. Not completely, but enough to slip under power. Still nothing on the cobra racing diffs. Just went and bought the output shafts from my hobby shop. Also found drive shaft bent as well, not sure how I bent a plastic shaft. Upgraded to aluminum, got it all together and runs like it should. Only getting about 5 to 10 minutes out of a full charge though. I'm thinking the 3 fans are sucking a lot of my run time. Ended up buying the rustler 4x4 ultimate while I was at the shop too. On sale for only $30 more than the vxl. Dangerous for me to visit the hobby shop. As a side note for any who doesn't already know, when upgrading to the aluminum drive shaft you need to purchase a front drive hub. Save another trip to the store. Don't ask how I figured that one out. thanks for the help and advice.