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Slipper Clutch Came Apart 4907

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dashrom

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I just got my new t maxx about a week ago. Broke it in, and thought I had it tuned pretty good. Today I took it out, for about 2 minutes. Started revving with no response. Took off the top, and the slipper clutch is missing pads. So the question is, what would cause this?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
+1. Replace the bad pads, and add a little blue locktite to the nut to make sure it holds the setting. The slipper should slip for no more than 2 feet on a full throttle take off. If it does, it will wear out way faster.
 
olds97_lss said:
Excessive slip causing too much heat and the pads broke up.
Defective pads.

Not sure what else.
Click to expand...

I'm new to this. I did not touch the clutch nut at all after buying it. How tight should it be. I ordered a couple different clutches today. Integy, and a factory replacement. I could not get any wheelies at all out of it before. So I'm assuming it was too loose, and not engaging enough? Any help would be great. Parts will probably be here in a couple days.
 
Well, depending on what slipper type you have (one with a spring or one with conical washers facing each other as a spring), it varies.

With a normal spring type, tighten until spring is fully compressed, then back off 1/4-1/2 turn.

With a conical washer type, you have to be more careful because once you crush the washers, you have no spring left. So, you tighten the nut until the parts are all snug, then maybe 1/8th turn past and adjust from there.

To test, I get my engine warmed up and running well, then I hold the truck down hard with my foot so it can't move and punch the gas. If it takes very minimal throttle for the slipper to slip (less than 1/2 throttle), I tighten it. Usually a quick full throttle pull should break the slipper loose, but you have to be careful. Too much slippage causes heat and glazing. Once your pads are glazed, they will slip a lot easier and get worse very quickly causing excess slip again.
 
I had the 2 washers that face each other. The Integy kit I bought has the springs. I'm gathering the springs are better?
 
I like the washers as they are a firmer setup. Usually with the spring versions, the spring weakens over time and you end up tightening it all the way down.
 
I'm thinking that the problem was they were just too loose. Two out of the three pads were missing. It happened pretty quick. so I didn't even look to see if it dropped them anywhere close. I was just frustrated with it being new. It also wouldn't shift today. I'm assuming that was playing a role. Only did one pass, and then it all fell apart.
 
Also. What other things are prone to breaking do to wear and tear on the t maxx? Figure I ought to start my mini parts warehouse.

And, thank you for the help with the clutch. These books only tell you so much.
 
Get a couple new nuts for the slipper, the plastic in the nut can melt causing the nut to loosen.....and...uh....get a spare t-maxx for parts lol. JK, you should look into some aluminum bulkheads and rpm a-arms with lunsford hinge pins. Those three things alone will greatly strengthen your ride.
 
While I've been waiting on a couple of clutches to get here, I have ordered several upgrades. Bulkheads included. Still waiting for the suspension kit to come available. They said it would be mid Jan at least. I got one clutch in the mail the other day. It was an Integy 3 shoe clutch. Has aluminum shoes. Looks totally different from what's in there. Of course this was an accidental purchase ( didn't know there was more than one clutch). der der! Anyway, went to put it in, and the flywheel nut that is on the truck has smooth sides. The one I need, and didn't come with the clutch kit, has a groove. So now I'm on the search for one of those. At this point, I'm empty handed. I do not plan on beating on my truck. Just want it to go fast, be very responsive. Look, and handle perfect, ..... sorry, got carried away. Will that Integy clutch do well?
 
Filing a groove is probably about the only thing that will work. Good idea, hadn't thought of that. I know the guy I bought it from acted offended that I would even ask about a nut with a groove. Said it's never been an issue. Also, how tight should the flywheel nut be when I put it back on? Don't feel like breaking anything else.
 
With a 1/4 inch ratchet I usually crank the nut on pretty hard. Be careful with the split beveled cone from the kit, it might not work. I had to use my original cone to get 'er done right. Obviously when you file the nut, be careful to only file 6 the points, they are thin, but it's worked for me over a year now.
 
Ran the truck yesterday for the first time since I put the new slipper clutch in. Lost a pad immediatley. So I put a little dab of high temp silicone on the back of the new pads before putting it back together, AGAIN. Also tighten it down pretty tight. It will slip, but.....I don't know that it will. After that I gave it another try. It ran the best it has since it came out of the box. Very responsive, and it will pull the front wheels off the ground if I want it to. I had been wondering why they put the wheelie bar on it.... now it finally has a purpose. LOL

2revo1maxx said:
With a 1/4 inch ratchet I usually crank the nut on pretty hard. Be careful with the split beveled cone from the kit, it might not work. I had to use my original cone to get 'er done right. Obviously when you file the nut, be careful to only file 6 the points, they are thin, but it's worked for me over a year now.
Click to expand...

Ok.. So the spring will just catch on the corners? Also, do I really need to get a clutch tool? I'm thinking I can use a screwdriver. There's some guy on utube I watch. He says without the tool you will tear it up. I'm thinking, the only thing I will tear up is myself by slipping if I'm not careful. lol:\
 

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