Single Bead Weld on motor mounts.?

[McoupeRS4EVO]

So guys what do you think about that...

Screwing my engine down. in perfect alignment and then putting a single bead weld on each engine mount.

Obviously these motor mounts would stay on the car.
and I'm willing to spend 30 minutes getting the screws out the hardway just so they never come loose again. like really this is driving me crazy. Loctite them it doesn't matter they come loose. I let my loctite set for more than 24 hours and they still come loose.

And are easily removed by a hammer and chisel if ever need be.but more than likly if I did it it would be a mounts+chassis combo for life.

 

[sweetdiesel]

If you ever changed gearing you have to remove and re-weld everything. Now if the loctite is working for the screws that hold the engine to the mount, you gotta ask yourself why it isn't working for the screws that hold the mount to the chassis. Are you using the correct screw size? Worn screws coated with old loctite don't do a very good job either. Also check the threads on your engine mount, are they worn or crossthreaded? Have you tried a new engine mount and new screws? I don't think welding is the answer.

 

[4u2nv]

if its a stock motor mount good chances are that its cast aluminum. And I dont think a person can weld cast stuff. (I may be wrong). Anything that permanent though doesn't sound good.

 

[beason]

sounds like alot of work to fix a simple problem to me. clean up the area, (screw threads and plate threads) make sure your motor mount doesn't have caked up locktight on the bottom of it, and make sure its smooth. maby get a new motor plate and screws. try red locktight

 

[houff]

25 years of welding, i know that you are not going to be able to get a strong tack on two diff metals. but you may try brazing the screws in.

 

[McoupeRS4EVO]

25 years of welding, i know that you are not going to be able to get a strong tack on two diff metals. but you may try brazing the screws in.

On that note. wouldnt the screws and the chassis be two different types of metals..

And wouldnt the chassis and motor mounts be close enough to the right types of aluminum.?


I have always had this problem. I've tried Hex Screws locktighted, the head strips when I hit a rock or something.. and the 2mm hex hole is to small for a screwout bit.

I've used the chrome philips and they are just garbage, strip tightening let alone taking them out.

Used regular philips, one that come in that little Hpi Bag for 5.99 and they are better than above.. but still come loose.

I have an aluminum welding guy.. and I'm not entirly sure. but one little bead wouldnt be too hot. to warp or distort the chassis.

I think I need a little diagram or something.. this seeems to me to be a relativly easy fix.. why so much negativity.

Who cars if i scrap the chassis. its 20 bucks from hong kong..

In all honesty.. It should come from the factory with motor mounts built into the chassis.

I'm saying if I screw it in with motor. remove motor from top. bead it.. and then reinstall engine.. I should technically always have a perfectly aligned engine if using the same motor, and mounts... no?

 

[beason]

what car is this on?? yes you would always have the alinement, unless you change gearing or engines or tweek the chassis somehow. the engine mount isnt designed to be solid or it would come like that from the factory. maby try stainless screws (you say you keep buying cheepos and they keep failing) or TI screws.

 

[SIRMAXXALOT]

Welding the motor mounts sounds like it is the wrong answer, like these guys are telling you, if you have posted it here even you question the decision or you wouldn't have asked---and so far everyone is telling you NO then you argue---if you have your mind made up allready then why ask--and if you don't want any of the advise that has been posted why ask? and a welder posts not to do it and you still seem to want to weld it, well if you want to weld and not take our advise then weld it BUTif you do want our advise then do this, go find the CORRECT HIGH QUALITY screws and clean everthing up nice and neat and try it with good locktight, the cheap stuff doesn't work well either..

 

[sweetdiesel]

If the engine mount was permanently fixed to the chassis from the factory, one crash that tweaked your chassis would permanently screw up your gear mesh.

 

[4u2nv]

you need to have some sort of give otherwise youll do more damage. So to have something permanant, I wouldnt suggest it. Sounds to me that your holes are probably stripped. You might want to retap them and go the next size bigger. And just locktite them in.

 

[nitro_freak_123]

ditto^^^^^^^^^


I'm with 4u2nv one this one

 

[houff]

mcoupe maybe i said it wrong but what i was trying to say was that brazing will work much stronger then welding

 

[SkyMaxx]

So guys what do you think about that...

Screwing my engine down. in perfect alignment and then putting a single bead weld on each engine mount.

Obviously these motor mounts would stay on the car.
and I'm willing to spend 30 minutes getting the screws out the hardway just so they never come loose again. like really this is driving me crazy. Loctite them it doesn't matter they come loose. I let my loctite set for more than 24 hours and they still come loose.

And are easily removed by a hammer and chisel if ever need be.but more than likly if I did it it would be a mounts+chassis combo for life.

I must say, this is the first time I have heard of this kind of solution to this kind of problem. On the surface, it sounds like the dream solution. Engine mounts that don't move. No more mesh issues to sweat.

Dig a little deeper, and you will find that the issues mentioned in previous posts would become more of a bother than you might think.

I am curious...what kind of RC is this? What are you doing to it that is causing the engine to shift so much? What size engine is this? What kind of loctite are you using? How old is the ride? Are the holes to the mount on either side (chassis plate side and engine side) stripped?

Answers to all of these would give us a better clue to giving you a better solution. But without them, the best solution is for us to recommend against welding the engine mount to the chassis plate unless you have the coin to spend on a new chassis and mount and anything else that might get damages when you tweak the chassis. Or the time you would need to tear the broken chassis down to rebuild a new one. If you have both the time and the money, then perhaps you should simply buy a new engine mount and some quality loctite...and give it one more try.

The welding solution is permanent and not quite wise unless this is a shelf queen.

 

[speedticket75]

better to get a titanium motor mount with new screws.....my mount was cast alluminum & had problems with the screws too.......on cast alluminum if you take the screws out more than 2-4 times, it wears the holes bigger....not so much that you can see it but just enough the screws wont hold even with locktite....

 

[McoupeRS4EVO]

Ok first off, I was not arguing with the welder. It just didnt make sence to me when he said I could braise the screws to the mounting holes. which is two diff types of metal. and I couldnt do aluminum to aluminum which is the same metal..

I'm not arguing I'm not set on doing this.. like Skymaxx said.,.. I'm digging a little deeper and getting everyones input.
If i didnt reply in the way that i had this would be on the second page. thanks



Second. Rs4 3 Evo.

However is a GPM chassis. which is why I dont care like I said $20 from hongkong.

Its a new chassis. They are new motor mounts. Its a new engine. lol

I'm just saying I run into this problem all the time.. I just sold my buddy an evo with an os18, and I lock tighted them good. set for 3 days before we even used it.. 3 high speed runs and his gears stripped. That was with new everything...
I just got my engine in today from cali. with engine mounts.

It just seems like such a great idea.. to a never ending problem I've always had.


I use Blue Loctite Brand Locktight.

I tried every screw combination possible.. and I'm fed up really.

I dont give a poop about 10 dollars on gears here and there.. but theres gotta be a fix for this. patch 1.2 anyone?

 

[SIRMAXXALOT]

Ok first off, I was not arguing with the welder. It just didnt make sence to me when he said I could braise the screws to the mounting holes. which is two diff types of metal. and I couldnt do aluminum to aluminum which is the same metal..

I'm not arguing I'm not set on doing this.. like Skymaxx said.,.. I'm digging a little deeper and getting everyones input.
If i didnt reply in the way that i had this would be on the second page. thanks



Second. Rs4 3 Evo.

However is a GPM chassis. which is why I dont care like I said $20 from hongkong.

Its a new chassis. They are new motor mounts. Its a new engine. lol

I'm just saying I run into this problem all the time.. I just sold my buddy an evo with an os18, and I lock tighted them good. set for 3 days before we even used it.. 3 high speed runs and his gears stripped. That was with new everything...
I just got my engine in today from cali. with engine mounts.

It just seems like such a great idea.. to a never ending problem I've always had.


I use Blue Loctite Brand Locktight.

I tried every screw combination possible.. and I'm fed up really.

I dont give a poop about 10 dollars on gears here and there.. but theres gotta be a fix for this. patch 1.2 anyone?

Ok, sorry if I sounded a bit harsh--just tryin to make my point of it's a bad idea to weld. I am not familiar with you car but could you possibaly use longer screws and put a nut on them? Maybe try letting the locktite set-up a little bit more before you install? make sure the screws are the right ones, man I am shocked, maybe you can even drill a small hole into the sides and thread a set screw into each of the motor mount screws? and locktite the set screw and the motor mount screw. I got a ton of goofy idea's to try.

 

[McoupeRS4EVO]

lol I'm going to try a diagram here.. dont laugh... I'm serious.


--|--|--_

--|--|--

Ok so pretend thats a motor mount... 2 screws at the top. and 2 at the bottom.

and the underscore in red is a set screw is that what you mean?


And the longer screw and bolt seem like a good idea.. ill see what I can find at like brafasco. cause I dont want poop machine screws, with tiny 2mm nuts.

however bolting it down does sound like a fairly good idea. Now I'm must try and find long tiny bolts.. and drill out my motor mounts.

Dont worry Ill think it over logically before I do anything extreme. I just wanna be able to
Drive my car for more than 10 mins before I'm sprinting to the lhs before closing.

 

[SIRMAXXALOT]

I would say if you can still thread it into there and maybe use the small nut, and/or set screw?