Shopping List Validation - My 1st RC build project

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RicoBanderez

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Hi folks,
I'm looking for a second opinion. Here's my shopping (or "wish") list for my new RC build.
I've been checking this so far every step of the way with Modelsport.co.uk and they've just been great … I really can't speak highly enough of them.
I'm staging the purchasing of the parts thinking about my wallet but what I'm looking for a second opinion on is what parts I'm looking to buy. I've made some assumptions and I've got some questions still so I'm just looking to continue building my understand before I get assembling the car.
My plan is to obtain all parts needed for build by beginning of July. Assemble the car in July / August and be ready to run in August.
I'm not looking to race … just to have built a solid car that'll last me.
Your opinions, assumption validations and answers to questions would all be gratefully appreciated.
FYI - this is why I love forums.
Sadly I won't be able to offer any advice back until I feel a bit more confident.
Thanks
Rich
 

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Hi folks,
I'm looking for a second opinion. Here's my shopping (or "wish") list for my new RC build.
I've been checking this so far every step of the way with Modelsport.co.uk and they've just been great … I really can't speak highly enough of them.
I'm staging the purchasing of the parts thinking about my wallet but what I'm looking for a second opinion on is what parts I'm looking to buy. I've made some assumptions and I've got some questions still so I'm just looking to continue building my understand before I get assembling the car.
My plan is to obtain all parts needed for build by beginning of July. Assemble the car in July / August and be ready to run in August.
I'm not looking to race … just to have built a solid car that'll last me.
Your opinions, assumption validations and answers to questions would all be gratefully appreciated.
FYI - this is why I love forums.
Sadly I won't be able to offer any advice back until I feel a bit more confident.
Thanks
Rich
i like how you have your list layed out with questions like that makes it really easy to check out!
on the servos, are you sure that a low profile is required i think they are standardized servos (id just double check that.) ? there is typically a standard size unless its for a small 1/16 and smaller, and on the flipside typically is a large scale for 1/5 and bigger. i would suggest at least 150oz/in torque servo rating in right around .10-.16 sec.
metal geared is always better. they arent digital but the arrma 1/8 scale ones may be good to look into, waterproof, .14-.16 speeds.
that receiver combo, i have not heard of that brand before so i can't comment on that but they are typically AA's that go into them. 2.4ghz usually takes 4.
i know alot of people really like that JP-1 pipe. good mid to low end pipe.
you are only going to need one receiver pack, the pack plugs into the rc's receiver then the receiver diverts power to servos and itself for the receiver needs. (extra pack wouldnt be a bad idea anyways though. ) should be able to just google a battery pack for that vehicle and go from there. I'm old school-ish and am used to either a 5 cell nimh/nicd hump or flat packs for receivers. so as far as post lipo scene releases i dont know.

hope any of this helps.
 
Thanks very much D3mon!
It tells me I need to read up on servos a bit more as I’m not sure what you are referring when saying .14-.16.
This is part of my plan is to set up a little research sheet where I’ll gather bits and pieces of info like this to complete my understanding.
If you haven’t gathered, I’m based in the UK so I’m generally metric based.
By the sounds of things the Losi 8ight 4.0 is SAE or imperial fixings so I’ll need to buy some new tools.
 
Thanks very much D3mon!
It tells me I need to read up on servos a bit more as I’m not sure what you are referring when saying .14-.16.
This is part of my plan is to set up a little research sheet where I’ll gather bits and pieces of info like this to complete my understanding.
If you haven’t gathered, I’m based in the UK so I’m generally metric based.
By the sounds of things the Losi 8ight 4.0 is SAE or imperial fixings so I’ll need to buy some new tools.
the .14 and .16 is how many seconds it takes the servos to achieve (if i remember correctly) 60 deg rotation.
+10 to the research sheet, it is very helpful especially when just starting out, once you get more familiar with the truck and rcing in general it will become second nature but getting there takes awhile. also would be a good idea to have a setup sheet for suspension tuning and engine tuning including temperatures out that day, if it is really humid etc, as those factors will change the tuning of the engine, so you can fall back to that if the need arises.
there is so much information to be had when it comes to rc's, I've been learning new things constantly.
as far as metric/SAE, id check replacement parts on hobby stores websites like A-Main, and look at the screws it has listed. if most of them are metric that pop up for replacement parts, its probably going to generally metric, vice versa for SAE.
on the note of tools, good tools (hex drivers primarily) will make your life so much easier, dynamite tools are awesome and highly recommended from my LHS.
 
Personally, I'd steer clear of arrma servos. I'd also go with something 200oz-in+.

If you can fit a standard, the savox 1210SG is a decent servo for the money. Waterproof as well.
Speed @6.0V: .15 sec/60
Speed @7.4V: .13 sec/60
Torque @6.0V: 277.7 oz-in (20.0kg)
Torque @7.4V: 444.4 oz-in (32.0kg)

That has been getting used a lot on the arrma forum in all their 1/8th trucks. I have one in my outcast, only on 6V and it's a brute of a servo.
 
Hi @olds97_lss and @D3MON
Thanks for your advice so far … I've been going back around my shopping list and I'm now at a version 2 … could you guys have a quick look and see what you think? My main question now is around the servos and the battery … will the fact that I'm looking at a 7.4V battery be OK with these two servos? The values I've been able to find on these services seem to be 4.8V and 6V so I'm just looking to check if the battery being a bit higher voltage is an issue.
Thanks all!!!
 

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Hi @D3MON and @olds97_lss
Can I ask you guys a favour … I've updated my shopping list as I think I'm ready to purchase the rest of the bits and pieces I need to complete my build.
Could you have a look at my shopping list and see what you think?
Thanks very much
Rich

Shopping list validation v3.png
 
To me it looks like that should be about everything, but as far as the lipo charger i do not know.
I will say you are going all out on the throttle break servo, not a bad thing though!
I have almost that same tx/ex combo, I love it! On the newer one i bought it has a limited to 50% 75% or full throttle. Really nice for the nephew to drive it. (My older one doesn't though)
Glow ignitors are glow ignitors so any of those would work, that one has a good mah rating so will last awhile.
As far as glow plugs, I believe that engine was a standard plug correct not a turbo plug? They are a few dollars more but O.S. #8 and #10 (A5) hasn't done me wrong. I use #10 for 30% fuel and #8 for 20%.
Running 25% fuel you will want a medium or colder plug. Higher nitro with hotter plugs can give you pre- detonation, or the equivelant of pinging on 1/1 cars.
Side note: my tx/rc came with the anteanna tube, but an extra wouldn't be a bad thing!
Hope that helped!
 
Thanks very much @D3MON
I know what you are saying about the servos. There's 2 reasons behind this … 1) It has somewhat been dictated by the 7.4v Lipo battery, and 2) I was suckered in by the orange colour.

Losi have designed the battery section of the battery/rx/servo tray to fit a Dynamite 7.4v S2 Lipo hump battery. I've not been able to find any 6v hump batteries that'll fit it so I've ended up settling for a 7.4v Lipo. Once I knew I was looking at HV servos I wasn't going to invest in the Spektrum versions (again which Losi recommend) so allowed my being suckered by the orange. plus I must say that the Savoxusa website was really useful in comparing.

Are there any lower price / decent quality servos that you could recommend?
 
Thanks very much @D3MON
I know what you are saying about the servos. There's 2 reasons behind this … 1) It has somewhat been dictated by the 7.4v Lipo battery, and 2) I was suckered in by the orange colour.

Losi have designed the battery section of the battery/rx/servo tray to fit a Dynamite 7.4v S2 Lipo hump battery. I've not been able to find any 6v hump batteries that'll fit it so I've ended up settling for a 7.4v Lipo. Once I knew I was looking at HV servos I wasn't going to invest in the Spektrum versions (again which Losi recommend) so allowed my being suckered by the orange. plus I must say that the Savoxusa website was really useful in comparing.

Are there any lower price / decent quality servos that you could recommend?
Savox from what I hear is a very good brand of servos, lots of people swear by them and I'm not going to lie that orange color is probably going to sucker me in on my next purchase!
I did recently buy a Hitec HS 646WP servo https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hitec-...ra-torque-6-0v-to-7-4v/rc-car-products/375915
which is listed as being able to take the 7.4v of lipo and is waterproof. It is 130oz/in at 6v dont recall the 7.4v lipo rating though. I am using that as a steering servo in my associated Monster GT. I am using a NiMh pack at 6v though and so far am quite happy with it. I got it from my LHS (horizon hobby vendor) for 43$ the previous I ran in it was a hitec 645mg which was the older, non waterproof version and not labeled to handle 7.4v lipo.
Spektrum are good products but can be quite pricey.
 
My only suggestions are
- I'd really go with a waterproof t/b servo just for peace of mind (may have mentioned that before)

- I'd go with a medium plug vs medium hot with 25% such as the FAST760-5 vs the FAST760-4

- I usually shy away from engines with composite carbs. Fully composite or otherwise. Fully composite ones wear a lot when the slide goes in/out then they bind or suck air, partially composite may leak where they are joined around the aluminum inserts (carb neck, throttle slide if there is alloy there). For the cost of the engine, may not be an immediate concern, just something to keep in mind a few gallons down the line.

I have a small 2S/3S charger like that, a dynamite 30w unit that I use for my micro's. It doesn't let you storage charge, but otherwise they are idiot proof. Was my first 2S lipo charger that I use with my micro's.

Is there a reason your also buying an engine mount? Looking at the parts explosion, it comes with one:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/engine-mount-set--8ight-40-tlr241017
 
My only suggestions are
- I'd really go with a waterproof t/b servo just for peace of mind (may have mentioned that before)

- I'd go with a medium plug vs medium hot with 25% such as the FAST760-5 vs the FAST760-4

- I usually shy away from engines with composite carbs. Fully composite or otherwise. Fully composite ones wear a lot when the slide goes in/out then they bind or suck air, partially composite may leak where they are joined around the aluminum inserts (carb neck, throttle slide if there is alloy there). For the cost of the engine, may not be an immediate concern, just something to keep in mind a few gallons down the line.

I have a small 2S/3S charger like that, a dynamite 30w unit that I use for my micro's. It doesn't let you storage charge, but otherwise they are idiot proof. Was my first 2S lipo charger that I use with my micro's.

Is there a reason your also buying an engine mount? Looking at the parts explosion, it comes with one:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/engine-mount-set--8ight-40-tlr241017
I recall on another post for engine selection that the engine mounts that came with it were for bump box only, and were to short for a pull starter.
 
I recall on another post for engine selection that the engine mounts that came with it were for bump box only, and were to short for a pull starter.
That makes sense since it's a racing kit. Then yeah, would be better to get the proper mount vs raising it with spacers or something. The mount conducts heat to the chassis, so the more contact area it has with the flanges, the better. Also would flex less.
 
My only suggestions are
- I'd really go with a waterproof t/b servo just for peace of mind (may have mentioned that before)

- I'd go with a medium plug vs medium hot with 25% such as the FAST760-5 vs the FAST760-4

- I usually shy away from engines with composite carbs. Fully composite or otherwise. Fully composite ones wear a lot when the slide goes in/out then they bind or suck air, partially composite may leak where they are joined around the aluminum inserts (carb neck, throttle slide if there is alloy there). For the cost of the engine, may not be an immediate concern, just something to keep in mind a few gallons down the line.

I have a small 2S/3S charger like that, a dynamite 30w unit that I use for my micro's. It doesn't let you storage charge, but otherwise they are idiot proof. Was my first 2S lipo charger that I use with my micro's.

Is there a reason your also buying an engine mount? Looking at the parts explosion, it comes with one:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/engine-mount-set--8ight-40-tlr241017

I seen that as well ,I don't see any reason why he would have issues ,other than the mount itself ,he should
be ok with a mount change ,or if there was a spacer plate added!
 
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